800GS shock bolt design flaw?

Not a real surprise, but still pretty pricey.

http://www.touratech-usa.com/Store/316/Wheels-Suspension

But they come with Stainless Steel Bushings – "While many aftermarket shocks use aluminum bushings where the shock mounts to the motorcycle, Touratech Suspension uses high-strength, non-corrosive stainless steel. This creates a strong and rigid connection which is important for loaded touring motorcycles. The stainless steel bushings protect against corrosion and seizing and offer low maintenance and longer life."

Petzi-bear

One piece or two piece bushing? If it's 2 piece it won't solve the problem.

Wonder who is making these for them? Sure looks like an ohlins.... just saying.

New company called Tractive:
Most of them are former WP employees:
http://tractivesuspension.com/about_tractive_suspension.html

Maybe someone on this forum is going to the iMS in Long Beach and could check them out for us.

Petzi-baer

Hey Snowy, i'm surprised you havent taken to that shock mount with you welder and put another plate in on the other side of the shock. The old DR didnt bend shock bolts
Do use your 800 2up much ? offroad.

Is the bottom shock bolt kit necessary with the stock shock, or just Ohlins like show here?

The Indy lower kit is just for aftermarket shocks with extra heavy loads.
I do not recommend them for stock shocks.
Most riders are satisfied with just the upper kit on stock and aftermarket shocks.
For 2 up fully loaded off road riding and our largest skilled ADVriders would also need the lower kit for aftermarket shocks.

2 up trail riding is all it does. I live 20kms from the entry to all the National parks and State forests that make up the Snowy Mountains here. I spend my weekends doing trail loops with wifey on the back. There's usually a pub stop somewhere where I get reasonably shit faced before taking to the trails again. Interestingly, I'm more likely to bin it sober than half cut.

Yes, I thought about welding it up. But I had far too much electronics to disconnect etc first. I'm lazy.

I was 2 up last weekend when I dumped it in a river in the back country Snowy Mountains. It's now known as U523. Unterseabooten. After laying it on it's side to drain the airbox it started right up and kept going for the rest of the trip, but the rear wheel bearings shit themselves about 200kms later, and the headlight was full of water and it separated all the chrome surface from the plastic. I'm in the process of fitting an aftermarket 7inch round light.

The old DR is in the shed with the lower frame rail torn out after an altercation with a mountain. Tore the rear brake lever clean off, holed the clutch cover, ripped the bashplate apart, fucked the frame. I'm 90% done fixing it, but lost interest because I have another DR and an F800 to take it's place. Thinking of parting out the old DR, selling the newer one and buying a Husqvarna TE510.

At least the DRs were hard to kill. I gave it a good go, and then still rode it the 100kms to get home in sleet, snow and rain with about half the normal oil volume and no rear brake.

Unterseabooten ! Dive Dive Dive
Hi Snowy, I test rode an 800GS about 3 years back but was concerned about the shock bolt thing as we are nearly always 2 up. I thought the motor was great but the suspension left me cold, and knowing my luck I would have some problem and have to do battle with BMW again over warranty. I'm interested in the RMZ swinarm you put in your DR . Was it longer than the DR one and if so how did it alter the handling and steering. I wouldn't mind a longer one in my DR as we are usually 2up and have been looking up specs and note that an 800GS has about 3" longer wheelbase than a DR.
You can PM me if you dont want to clog this thread.
Cheers Phil

Wilco. Later tonight I'll send the measurements.



Shock bolt is the least of my worries now thanks to the Indy kits.

I'm thinking about air tanks and snorkel though.

Round headlights for the win

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Does anyone know if the 2013 model still uses this weak bolt that needs to be replaced?

It's not the bolt that's weak, it's a badly designed upper shock mount.

And yes, the 2013 is still the same AFAIK. Get the Indy kit and the problem is solved.

Excellent info. Thanks

I believe this is the company that is making the new Toura-tech shocks?


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Well, I spoke too soon.

If no one has killed an Indy kit to date, I may be the first.

Strip down and pics to follow.

There's suddenly a lot of play in the top shock mount. About 10mm at the rear axle. Clunky noise evident over uneven ground.

Most likely needle bearings are shot.
I am recommending moly paste for lubrication these days.
Post pics and PM me for any parts you need for free.

I have seen a few shafts over heat treated and have brittle flaking failure that can damage the needle bearings.
Since you ride 2 up loaded a lot and mostly off road that is the toughest loading on the shock mounts.

Snowy.....I think you need to change your avatar to Basher......

or maybe Bashy?

Looks like Indy's all over it anyhow. We'll see what it is? Maybe the shock itself if not the needle bearings?

Dave

Well it's probably overkill, but I got an extra needle bearing to put in the top shock mount to share the load so now it has three bearings instead of the two in the Indy kit. The two outside bearings stick out about 2mm, but the running surface of the needles is still well inside the bore of the shock they're inserted into. This is on a stock shock by the way. The bearings might not even be the problem for Snowy, but I guess we'll see soon enough.

I quickly went through some 30 pages but couldn't find the order information on the Indy shock bolts, can someone please post the link the this Indy shock bolt? Thanks.