DR750 & DR800 owners thread

Hi Mait,

I have the same problem and will follow your sidetank project but i see a lot of edges and i have bad experience falling off the bike offroad driving and all kinds of things sticking out.

Will the end result more smooth like the orange example picture ?

Leo, good point about the sharp edges. I didn't even think about it. The tanks will not protrude much, I hope it will not be a problem.

Nearly finished my new wiring loom for the new lights...Put the HID ballasts beside the rear toolbox and ran the HV cable to the front. The rest of the loom is lighter by a significant amount due to being LED. The end result is less consumption then standard and now have room in the electrical system for 2 x 35W HID headlights and a 30W LED light bar.....I hate riding at night

I hit a roo 15 years ago a DR250 and dont want a repeat ...EVER

I wish they were extinct and 4wd,s .

mait, you are a complete crazy man

respekt!!!!

i do try....

I absolutely hate the amount of wiring thats behind the headlights......oh on another note i now need a headlight surround shroud thing....mine has busted all the clips of the bottom and does not sit flat to the fairing now....anyone know where i can get one?

Hello Bigdrivers,
offer here a used LeoVince X3 exhaust individual customized edition with special adapted for the BIG manifold for original & HRT & holeshot manifold.
He has an DB-Eater and a bassy sonorous sound.

Price: 125€.....
on top shipping costs : different by country and distance

you can pay with pay pal










volker

In case you guys from "across the water" do not know:

the "USFS" stamp on Volkers silencer means that is it United States Forest Service approved as a spark arrestor. That means the screen inside is a specific material and the mesh is a specific size so that it is safe to use in our dry summertime forest areas.

One is required to use these in the US forest areas or a very large fine is involved. If it is proven that you've started a wildland fire due to lack of use, you'll be paying for that for the rest of your life.

.....just thought you'd like to know.

back on the DR issues

I'm putting the showers issues at rest for now ...
until the wifey decides the color of the shower anyway ...


So,
I still have this problem where the DR stops when it's hot.

I had some tries this night, but I had to stop since even with the door open, the fumes were starting to get me dizzy.

Anyway.
-The carbs have been cleaned thoroughly
-Carbs adjusted as the manual says
-the fuel pump has been removed and the tank was sitting quite high on wooden planks (so that no issue with fuel not able to fill the bowl, gravity style)
-spark plugs cleaned too.
-the stand switch has been zip tied so that it's always as if the stand was folded.
-tried to make a heat shield with a bit of aluminium, rerouted the fuel line on the other side of the tank (2 petcocks on the acerbis tank).

So far, nothing worked.
I'm thinking I have a vapor lock issue.
Bike runs fine until it's hot, even when I keep it around 2000 rpm, the bike just stops and won't work properly until it has cooled down.

once stopped I removed a spark plug and the spark plug was dry.

Not really sure where to go from there.

Maybe try to have something blowing on the manifold to get the hot air away from the carbs.
The manifold is the Ti manifold with a road legal produro, anyone having put that on their big have vapor lock issues?
I didn't touch anything on the carbs, standard jetting, standard values for the air screw.

anyone has an opinion on that? please shout in that direction

Do you still have spark when the bike is hot and dies?

There was a problem a few years (possibly a decade) ago where Honda Goldwings would do the same thing. The problem was traced to the ignition coils down by the crank. This would be the one in with the stator on the DR.

The coils would work find when cold but as the engine oil heated up the coils would fault and....no spark until cool again.

Drove many mechanics nuts until someone solved it.

MrPopples, check the tank cap vent too. Probably too easy but worth a try.

i suspect a carburetor trouble, this is a very good page for the big carburetor:

http://members.ziggo.nl/minara/word bestanden website/Carburetor MIKUNI BST33.htm

volli

I took Daisy's carbs apart here's what I found.........................







The 'dirty' one is from the side-stand side of the bike. I wonder if, as the bike leans that way, the fuel would have settled in the lower of the two carbs.????



P.S try not to look at the mess behind the carbs.............. TVM

Nice page, I don't see where I fucked.
I did everything as the guy did... I even put back exactly the same allen screws :)

The only thing I didn't mention is the brass tube on the right of both carbs (far choke circuit) was broken and I repaired it with "cold solder" epoxy paste.

Tried to run the bike without cap. same effect.

Hmm, worth checking.
but as far as I understand, I should have wet spark plugs when the bike stops.
The spark plugs are clean and not brown at all.

After stopping, the bike actually start for half a second to stop again.

I'll try to check valve adjustement too?
maybe when the bike is hot, the valve have not enough play and one stays open?
It seems to me the engine backfire in the carb when the engine stops...

I want to ride, dammit ...
Well, I'm riding the Buell, but I have stuff to do on the Buell too ... so it would be nice to keep a bike in a rideable condition

I might just buy a third bike

Hi there guys!

My rebuild has begun and i have three questions at the moment, there is this decomp cylinder att the rightside of the frame is tha possible to remove and use a manual decomp?
Second question is, can i run the big without a fuelpump if the tank is over the carbs, and do i lead the return line in to the fuel line again?
The third question is: is it posible to make a better looking installation on the oilcooler and keep the effect so it dont break from gravel and stuff.
Thats for now folks. :)

Yes, you can source all the parts of the 750 :)
It has a manual decompressor and it mounts on the Big.
There must be a wire to ground somewhere so that the bike actually start... I think it has been explained here... need to search again as I want to make the mod :)

Yes, gravity works well usually :)
What you call the "return line" is the vacuum line from the carb? right?
you can just put a cap on the carb side and remove the line.

no idea about third question though ...

I happen to know the answers ... because I asked the questions some weeks ago in there .

Thanx MrPopples for those words.
Must take a look at the 750 decomp, its not a big issue but its uggly. :)
With the return line I mean the the center hose that goes to the fulepump so if thats a vaccum line its very good. :)
I tried to look for the 750 decomp mod but with no reults so if you find it ples put a link here.

I LIKE THE TRIUMPH FUEL TANK!!
CHEERS.