Thanks all, its been a bit of a project thats for sure. One of those jobs were you just keep replacing things until just about everything is new. Still got a way's to go, but at least i can ride it while i get the rest sorted. Got to take it for a ride today. Had a fun few hours out and about getting to know it and only lost 3 things. Lost the 2 speedo nuts and the rear brake pad pin cover screw. So not to bad, no oil leaks, no water leaks and it still goes, whoo hooo. 1st light of day since i bought it home Heading up toward Mt Tamborine. Plenty of whoa boy's on this track to test the suspension. Up at the lookout on Mt Tamborine Nice place here. There were a couple of people just about to load some canoes into the water for a paddle. Found some long grass to play in Back at home, most things in tack
G'day Bruce, different bike to ride. Feels bigger than the 610, it feels like it has more torque and power than the husky, which it should, i need to have a play with the carb still. The brakes have less feel to them than the husky, but that is probably more personal and just need time to adjust. Ha, and get this, no magic button, not sure on this yet.
does it still have the rubber front brake line mate? they need to be upgraded to braided to get any real power to the caliper, from memory that bike already had a 280mm oversize ebc rotor, they don't stop any better till the line is upgraded jetting 68S pilot S is for small hole, I think they are Honda genuine only. 170main 2 turns out on the air screw then fine tune, stock needle on 3rd clip down (middle clip) trim the float level up (less fuel) about 2 or 3mm from spec
G'day Ditchy, yeah mate it has the 280 rotor and rubber Michirin hose on it, which i would assume as standard. I will have a look into the braided line for sure. Dont see there is much to be gained from just adding the large rotor apart form surface area, caliper can still only apply so much pressure. Thanks for the tips on the carb, no idea how it is set up, just as it was when i bought the bike, so will pull it apart and have a play.
shame lostsaffa just sold a good 2nd hand goodridge braided line a few weeks ago, You can get Goodridge brake lines in several color options from most bike shop they are supplied by John Stamos I think it is, I have had 1 made at Enzed before, the braided lines from USA will fit but aren't quite right and end up having a half twist in them as they run A different master cylinder crf style grab the rubber line as you squeeze the lever you will most likely feel it bulge as it pressures up
You can get Hela braided lines off of their website and they are local around Redcliffe or Scarborough some where. Good price too, fitted one to the Transalp.
I run a Goodrich on mine. I've had a few brands of SS lines over the years and I really like the build quality of the Goodrich. Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2
http://helperformance.com.au/ Yeah I second that Cruz. I have bought several lines from HEL. Grat to deal with Brisbane based. He has made custom brake lines when I needed extra length, also made a clutch line for a KTM for half the price of an OEM one. Joe
My 04 XR650 has 12000km on the clock and is making an intermittent metallic clicking noise, anyone else had this problem? From internet searches it seems it could be worn cam chain guides, should I just replace the guides or the entire cam shaft drive components?<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
sounds pretty open ended to me mate, fair bit involved replacing all the timing components. better to try and isolate the noise first. is the manual decomp adjusted properly. if it is not disengaing fully it will make a tick clickety tick noise
Thanks Digga I have had a bit of a look around, disconnected the decomp cable and checked valves etc. It is no way rhythmic like a two to three clicks with half a second gap then quiet for a few seconds then will click again for a few times, very erratic. It does go away when the engine is revved past a certain point. Is there a way to check cam chain wear without taking the top end apart?<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
I remove the cam chain adjuster to let it fully extend then push it back in the hole it should stop before the face of the adjuster meets the barrel
