f800gs overheating when idling

This past week I went for a ride and got stopped at a railroad crossing. Since I noticed that the train wasn't very long I left the bike running as I waited. Just as the end of the train was approaching I noticed that the temperature of the bike started to rise significantly. Just as the train passed, I proceeded to cross the tracks to pull over to the side of the road to let the bike cool down. As I started moving I noticed that the temp started to drop. I continued slowly along until the bike reached 'normal' operating temperature.

After further investigation, I found that I could replicate the problem anytime I let the bike sit and idle, even when the outside temperature was in the upper 60's (F).

That afternoon I called my local CO BMW dealership/service department and asked a service technician his thoughts. He replied that since the bike cooled back down once it started moving again that he didn't think that it was anything to worry about and to just keep my eye on the temp. Not liking that response, I decided to call several other BMW dealerships/service departments to see what their response would be. Every other dealership I spoke to suggested getting the bike in asap to get the cooling system flushed as there was likely a bubble in the system. One dealership even suggested that I have BMW Roadside Assistance come get the bike since it was under warranty in order to possibly avoid any possible further issues. After hearing that, I had Roadside Assistance come get my bike.

Two days days later I get a call from the service department with a rough quote of $250 to flush the system. I asked why this isn't a warranty covered issue and they told me that since the bike had been tipped over before (not wrecked/crashed, rather a very light red light nap - you can barely tell it even touched the brake lever and foot rest) that they couldn't honor that as a warranty issue. My response was that they couldn't prove that was what caused it and that I thought that was kinda weak of them not to honor it as a warranty issue since they could not prove that was what caused the issue. Long story short I went in and paid my bill and as I'm doing so the service technician at the counter tells me he doubts that was what caused the issue to begin with…. needless to say, I left confused.

I should note that all work on this bike has always been done at a BMW dealership/shop. The bike had just gotten it's 600 mile service performed 3 weeks prior (serviced at 550 miles) by a different BMW dealership/shop (where it was originally purchased). The bike is a 2009 f800gs that has been garaged it's entire life and been ridden regularly but only for short rides. The bike now has 1,650 miles on it after a recent 700 mile road trip.

My question to you all is: Does this seem right? I feel like I just got taken for $200+ by my local shop. The shop claimed that the regional representative has the final call on warranty coverage issues that that was his call.

I feel like they are essentially telling me that since my GS has taken a light nap in the past that my warranty is no longer valid?

Looks like you found a crap dealer, that are scamming you...... First.... there is a known issue with dirt getting in the cooling fan....essentially seizing it.... Easy fix..... stick your hand in there....spin the propeller.....or use compressed air.... So here is the question.... Did you hear the fan kick in... It is vaguely audible with a helmet on..... Bu visible if you look at it..... Mine did it..... I now just hose the fan down with each wash.... If you did hear the fan,..... then yes there could be an air bubble..... but not from a tip over..... but rather from a bad bleed job...... Really a shame of that dealer..... Most certain that if that is what they claimed was the fix... I would not trust them....

the fan is working properly - it kicks on after the bike idles for a couple of minutes

since the flush the bike has stopped overheating when it idles - however, now it stalls when I am at a red light after idling for a minute or so.....but that's another thread I have started, ugh

any other thoughts? I really appreciate your input/thoughts!

Ok....good ... so the fan is rotating. I do not believe the tip would even remotely cause the bubble...... No way..... As far as the stalling...... Not sure what could cause that.... Unless they for some reason reflashed the computer....and gave it a bad load..... Have you looked at some of the usual suspects..... Charcoal canister.....plugged injector.... ( as you have lots of ethanol in CO)... perhaps a few tank fills with techron...... That's about all I can think of.....

Is there a way to determine if they flashed the computer?

If they did flash it, can they simply set the temperature sensor/gauge to respond to higher temps or a higher threshold?

No they cant..... but I recall hearing about another rider with same problems.... Have you searched for other threads here.... There are several....or at least two other " bike stalling" threads....

I just had my 800GS (2010 18k miles) in for warranty repair of the coolant pump that was leaking more and more from the weep hole. They used some type of pneumatic vacuum/presser tool to bleed all the air out of the system when replacing the coolant. When I inquired about what would happen if I tried to change the coolant at home without the pneumatic tool they use, the response was that I would most likely be unsuccessful in getting all the air out.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
<o></o>
So if the coolant had never been changed since the bike came from the factory, then how did air get into the system? <o></o>
<o></o>
The dealership that said don't worry about the problem sucks, and the dealership that wouldn't cover it under warranty because the bike was laid on its side also sucks. <o></o>
<o></o>
Thankfully, my dealership (cycle specialties in Modesto, CA) has been very good with warranty work. They have done the leaking valve cover gasket thing and now the water pump and I've been happy. <o></o>
<o></o>
I buy all my oil, filters, brake pads, and other miscellaneous parts from them. I'm not sure if that has anything to do with their willingness to do warranty repair work, but if I find a dealership that I can trust, I'm happy bringing all my business to them and remaining loyal when it comes time to purchase a new bike. <o></o>
<o></o>
Maybe the dealership that charged you didn't think you'd be a repeat customer so they didn't take care of you? I don&#8217;t know. Glad it's sorted out now.<o></o>
<o></o>
God bless,<o></o>
David

not a good way to win me over

The dealer was less than honest. The system is very easy to bleed. The trick is to use the bleed screw on the water pump while the bike is running. Took 30 seconds to do when I had to change out the heat exchanger (damn these two left hands...). There is a thread I posted in somewhere around here with pics. The great Joel Wisman also posted in it before me. I followed his directions and it has been perfect ever since.

Found Joel's instructions:

From this thread: Coolant Bleeder

That's not the impression I get from reading Joel's posts on the subject. "Congratulations, you've just bled the air out of a cooling system that is sometimes a bitch to do so."

"sometimes a bitch to do so" and "very easy to bleed" are not congruent statements. So who should I listen to, you or my dealership who appears to agree with Joel?

God Bless,
David

I guess the time I did it, I got one of the not "sometimes" implied by Joel's statement. My assessment was that it was easy to follow Joel's instructions to bleed the system. But, go ahead and continue to pay for the service your dealer provides if it makes you feel more comfortable. I encourage supporting the local guy.

For those who want to save a couple of bucks and not have to give up their ride for whatever time the dealer needs it, you can do it yourself following what Joel posted...sans super-vacuum-thingy. And it doesn't take too long...longest part was waiting for the engine to cool down to open the radiator and top it off. Just my $0.02.

I'm terrible with repairs but flushing a coolant system couldn't be much easier (at least on my vstrom). Most annoying part is accessing the radiator, but after that it's a piece of cake. $200-$250 to flush the system is straight robbery, checking my valves costs that much! The coolant costs like $5 at the auto parts store...

For topping off the Strom, after flushing and tightening drain bolt, I just rock it back and forth to get the coolant down into the radiator, keeping rocking/topping until the level stays at the top. I don't think you even need to run the bike or anything. No problems and I do it every 2 years.

this experience is leading me to believe that my bike will be going somewhere else after my warranty is up at the end of the week. normally, I wouldn't mind paying a higher price if I knew I was getting honest and good service. the more I think about how they told me that it wasn't covered yet they couldn't prove that was what caused the issue, bothers me. IMO, they should be erring on the side of good service, not what "might be be cause."

*I just called the original dealership/shop that it was purchased from and they told me that they had no idea why that was not a warranty issue (bubble in cooling system). That is the 3rd BMW dealership to say the same thing to me. They were fully aware that the bike had taken a nap in the past and even had notes about it when the previous owner brought it in to make sure the brake system wasn't damaged as a result of the fall. I'm losing more and more faith in this dealership/shop's honesty/ethics practices

Guys, thanks for all the advice and pointing me in the right direction!
I could not get rid of the bubble in my cooling system any other way than with the procedure below:
1. open the radiator cap and all the coolant from the reservoir poured out.
2. fill the radiator to the top
3. run the engine with the radiator open
4. open bleed screw until coolant with bubbles was out and straight coolant was coming out
5. tighten the bleed screw and run the engine for about 15 seconds
6. open the bleed screw and repeated point 4. and 5. about 10 times
7. Filled up the radiator, put cap back on and filled the reservoir
No problems since.
This worked for me after a few unsuccessful attempts doing it other ways.:

Newbie here, can you please post a pic of the bleed screw, just want to to see where it is. Thanks.

See the pic in post #6 in this thread.

Hey Bigalow, any updates?

coolant pump? or are you referring to the tool used by the shop? I hope I don't have a larger issue than a simple flush

the overheating issue was fixed when the dealership flushed the coolant system - at my expense.

After seeing the above information, I may have to attempt that on my own in the future. I emailed corporate regarding my two issues and got a form mail back stating that someone would call me. No one has...

To top things off, the dealership was less than professional and in no way helpful when I picked up my bike yesterday. They told me they needed 10-15 to 'put the bike back together' when I came to get it and that they would come get me when it was ready. They let me sit there for an hour before I ended up asking them for a update on it. They were like 'uh, yeah, I think it's ready.' Awesome service there at Foothills BMW ::: sarcasm :::

Sorry to read about these problems bigalow, sounds like you found out about the biggest one. Foothills BMW.