I use my XT everyday to commute, and was starting to worry about letting my bike alone all day during work hours. Has any of you installed some king of alarm system on it?
There was a guy on XT225.com that did. I have not seen him on there in quite awhile (at least a year or two), so not sure if he still posts there or not, or if he even has is XT....
I have a little lock that attaches to the brake disc. The bike will only roll a half turn when it's on. Also you have a factory steering lock that locks the forks over to one side.
After seeing some youtubes (3 or 4 guys throw the bike in a truck); I'd carry a heavy chain and a good lock; to a tall light post. Tip: don't let the chain lie on the ground, then it's easy to lever a bolt cutter. If the chain is 2 or 3 feet off the ground, the bolt cutter is harder to use.
If they want your bike bad enough, they will have it. The chain and alarm is just so your stuff is a little harder to steal. Make sure you carry comprehensive coverage, so you are covered against theft.
ROADBIKE, July/11 has a drawing for hooking up a cut-out relay to the starter switch to temporarily disconnect the headlight. My problems is: 1. Which color of wire from the starter switch is used.? 2. Which wire from the head light is used, which color? I have a wiring drawing from back in this thread but it doesn't really help uneducated types like me. Thanks.
I don't think that's the easiest way to do what you want. I would cut the green wire that comes out of the left-hand switch assembly...turn signals, horn, etc...and insert an on-off switch. This will only disable the low-beam, which is what you need to reduce the current draw during starting (and may prefer to use for bumpy, dirt riding anyway). Alexd
The green wire coming off the left assembly is your friend. I bought a double pole single throw toggle switch from the local chain hardware store and connected in the green wire, the headlight wire for low beam, and also spliced one of two taillight (low volt) wires so that when throwing the switch, it turned the taillight low 'beam', side orange lights, and the headlight low beam off. That still leaves the high headlight beam working with the low/high beam switch any time, the turn blinkers working any time I use the turn signal, and the brake light working whenever I use the brake. I had to fabricate a bracket for it (read: cut some metal, drill holes in it, round off and smooth the sharp edges). SO far, the screws are doing very well with the wire (weakest point methinks) but they could be more stabily attached, although I've been on several trail rides and dumped it several times with the switch and haven't had any problems with it. (YMMV, do at your own risk, etc, blah blah blah.) I can take a picture of it, but I often take forever to get around to posting the pics. -b
Thanks. I will go with the toggle switch 1st, should be within my limited capabilities, then later add the tail light splice.
There are available handlebar-mounted rocker switches. I have them on my bikes. I mount them on the right side and run the wires across to the left, where they connect to the two ends of the cut green wire. Alexd
I normally ride with my high beam on, so I just cut the yellow wire on the right side coming out of the back of the headlight. Installed a toggle switch on a little plate attached to one of the handlebar bolts. If the switch were to go bad, low beam would still work.
I will probably do this some day, but in all honesty I have never had a bike (well technically it is the wifes) that starts so easily. I pulled it out today after sitting for almost a month -- choke on, gas on and VAROOM in about three seconds, and that was with no battery tender on it at all. Still wish they had built it with a kick starter though.
I got a new front fender today and grips. going to freshen it up with new plastics.. I had to pull the barkbusters off to figure out the bars are bent from one of the p.o's crashes..lol stupid found some new bars on ebay for cheap not sure how they go with the xt since there vintage oem honda bend but ill find out.. here is a link.. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290529255800 they'll get me by for now..
It's all about what each individual rider wants. Some want high beam to always work, some want low beam to always work... The kick starter works really well when the bike is warmed up. The e-start is great for cooler commuting mornings when I don't want to kick more than once and any other time when I'm feeling lazy. I didn't have any trouble putting mine in once I had the right tool for the job.
Does anyone know if the ttr 230 flywheel and the xt 225 flywheel are interchangeable?..since the crank and piston part numbers are the same but the flywheel numbers are not. Im thinking there just differant weight's and i have a ttr230 05 but i need to keep it running aswell (gf's bike)... might whip both flywheels off one day and see if the ttr's is lighter and fits with the xt's stator..then find a used ttr one somewhere.
I have a spare 230 flywheel I'd be willing to photograph/measure/weigh. Here in the U.S. the 225 ignition changed around the 2000 model year. I'm not sure if the flywheel changed at the same time.
It would help if you could just weigh it and let me know what year its off(prob all the same but anyway ill check later) then id only have to weigh the xt's to see the differance. then measure the width of the stator's.. probly the width of the flywheels also. if there the same width or even close then there should be no problem...
Mine starts fine in the warm weather, it's the below freezing days where it cranks many times to start that I needed the extra battery power with no headlight dragging it down. Same when using heated clothing. Gerbings jacket liner and gloves will kill the battery even while riding, so restarts after stops become iffy if you don't turn the clothing off well before you stop. I installed a kick starter for the same reason. It will start on a push with the battery dead from the heated clothing, so the kick starter made sense.
What is your goal? If you want less resistance/quicker reving, then a lower output stator might be what you want. the weight doesn't matter if the flywheel doesn't fit. What year is your 225?
Mine was built in may'95 so its a 95 or 96 w/e yep that is what im after either to see if the ttr 230s is lighter,fits and works or to shave a lil weight of the xt's..never seen anything about a lower output stator..do they make em or would i just get mine redone with less output.. plus would i still be able to put grip heaters on without having troubles with power I dont have a kick start yet so i dont want my battery going flat all the time being the same crank and cases im not %100 sure it wouldnt fit...going to find out when the xt's bolt kit comes and i rally up some gaskets and a flywheel holder. if it dont fit ill just lighten the xts or do as you said and look into geting a lower output stator. if its cheaper and less messing around then ill prob go with that and get the kick start kit asap in case i need it some day in the bush