So the next saga in "how can Matt screw up the simplest maintenance." Went to remove my aftermarket skidplate yesterday to do an oil change, promptly snapped the right rear bolt off flush with the engine case. Tried to use a #1 EZ out to get the bolt out, drilled a decent hole, which is always a task when using an EZ out.. then promptly snapped the EZ out off in the bolt. I guess I am looking for advice? Tried to go up to the next EZ out size, but of course no way to drill a decent guide hole for the new EZ out because the old one is in the way. If I have to can someone weld a nut onto the engine casing? Magnesium case? I have no idea. Mechanically inept at your service.
Take the bike to a good private machinist, typically an old semi retired master if you can find one or have someone recommend one. They typically enjoy a challenge and don't charge a lot. At this point (from what you describe yourself as) anything you do will make matters worse. Take some blankets with you as you will probably have to lay the bike on its side to work on it.
Wow, I feel for you. Exactly the reason why I don't attempt to use "EZ Outs" anymore. Perhaps your best bet would be to apply penetrating oil and various amounts of heat in hopes of loosening and extracting the broken ez-out. Patience is everything. Depending on the location and diameter of the ez-out, I might even try to grind a slot in it with a cutting wheel on a die grinder to get a bite on it with a flat-head screwdriver. Less likely for someone to successfully weld a nut on the case than taking it to someone who is an expert at extraction. Oh, and a good reason to use anti-seize compound on most threads... Good luck?
In a real pinch like this, I've been able to weld a makeshift handle (can be anything) to whatever it is I was trying to remove. In your case, can you weld a piece of bent rod to the broken bolt & then turn the rod until everything backs out? I've also been able to tap counter-clockwise on a broken shaft which was embedded like yours is - with a screwdriver and a ball peen hammer. It's a painstakingly slow process, but will serve to "break" the bolt loose initially, which probably caused the head to shear in the first place. Dan
If in the end the original mounting tab is completely buggered, would it be possible to simply welt a steel nut right over the old mounting hole..that would allow me to still mount the bash plate ...there is plenty of room as normally there is a 3/4" rubber bumper in place.. I think I could get a nut welded, and still have room for a jury rigged bumper as well?
If your engine block is non ferrous, welding a steel (ferrous) nut to it won't work. Assuming your engine block is non-ferrous, you could possibly find a similar alloy nut to match the alloy of the block and perform the weld, but honestly I'd leave that as an absolute last resort if you really cannot back the sheared-off bolt shank out. If you go to sell the bike ever, I doubt the new owner will want the extra nut welded to the engine case. Dan
A good welder can weld a bolt to the stub still in your motor, which you may then be able to turn the broken bolt out. At the very least, the heat shock of welding might be helpful in this case.
Well that is an interesting turn of events... i will research that and may name my first child after you for the welding idea.. I do wonder how a welder would get access to the bolt remnant to weld.. While my bike has spent a lot of time on its side.. I havent really looked to see how accessible those bolts would be with the bike on its side. I have been spraying PB in there over the last couple of days.. maybe I should have started with that ... and I plan on discussing it with the dealer tomorrow when they open. edit... well is Bemiiten a boy or a girls name?? seriously dude you just saved me a ton of stress... to be able to get out of this screw up for $350 bucks is a relief.. Still hope to save the current set up.. but that BD skidplate is a piece of art. Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
Follow this good advice for a positive outcome. Otherwise, continue to post about further frustrating attempts to correct your error. When you are in deep water slightly over your head, don't swim to deeper water. Call to be rescued by an expert swimmer (in this case, the sage machinist with the correct tools and experience) who knows those waters in which you now find yourself. And, then send GS Addict a nice Christmas card.
I agree.. and this is high on my list of to do's,,, being in the military doesnt exactly allow me to get to know an area real well.. so finding an "experienced machinist" is not exactly easy.. I already checked craigslist and came up with nothing. I will ask in my regional forum.
You might start here; International Association Of Machinist Dist #170 (401) 943-8331 762 Atwood Ave Cranston, RI 02920 Keep us posted and thank you for serving. def USN CA-148
I have used a Dremel tool with a carbide or diamond burr ball, depending on how hard the material to be removed is, which worked well. It just takes patience to nibble away at it. Then helicoil to repair threads.
+1 on the Helicoil if you extract the bolt. I had a similar situtation that I attempted to remedy as you did - but without snapping the EZ Out. I went to change my OEM skidplate with the Wunderlich Extreme 2 piece and snapped off the left rear bolt. I tried cutting a notch into it first to tap it out. Even with the rubber bushing to soften the blow, it probably compressed totally with the hit that it took and then abused the threads. I think the bolt simply would not back out because the plate took a direct hit just underneath that bolt damaging the threads into the casing. I drilled progressively larger holes (measured depth against the bolt length as to not drill too deep) and attempted extraction with larger EZ Outs (without success). I eventually reached the hole size necessary to cut new threads to insert a Helicoil that brought it back to the original size. I drilled patiently from underneath (bike on the centerstand) using a cordless drill with a hardened drill bit. This worked quite well. The bolt material seemed rather soft and it appeared that the old threads were somewhat fused to the casing once I could get a good look at the damage. The new plate took similar abuse (the same route that damaged my OEM plate), and that rear casing repair held up perfectly - bolt extracts like new. Consider using anti-seize past on the bolts with decent washers and that should facilitate future removals. The Wunderlich attachs at six points and spreads the abuse using and inner and out plate. Any skidplate on the GS is basically a sacrificial part - the more damage that it takes, the less your casing will suffer.
I've modified my stock skidplate to float on the crashbars, disconnecting it from the engine entirely. I've got the SW Motech bars, which have a flat crossbar under the skidplate. In a normal installation, the skidplate is mounted to the motor via the rubber isolation mounts, and the crossbar sits under that, spaced off about in inch. I removed the rubber isolation mounts and bolted the skidplate directly to the crossbar. At the back, I cut two .75" slots in the plate and use a pair of hose clamps to connect to the catylitic converter mounts. I placed a piece of heavy 1" rubber, cut to fit, between the motor and skidplate as an impact absorber. The system works pretty well, I've taken some impressive hits to the assembly and it is holding up.
Well in typical fashion I threw money at the problem and simply bought the Black Dog Skidplate... wonderful folks to deal with OBTW, I had a 45 minute conversation with them on a variety of topics. I will probably just leave the snapped off bolts in there. If I do decide to sell the bike someday I will cross that bridge at that time. T/E I just need to send you a PM ever time I screw up something, you always have a good solution.
So there is the picture.. as you can see..broken off EZ out and the failed attempt to re-drill for the next larger EZ out. Despite the fact that I have already pulled the trigger on the Black Dog skid plate, mostly because I love the design, I will still try and remedy this situation for future resale issues. As I look at the picture it occurs to me that there may be some bolt actually sticking out of the threads where the rubber and washer are.. you cant see the washer in the pic, it is between the rubber and the engine block. I will take a closer look at it this weekend.
From the pic it looks like you simply broke the rubber bumper in half. Did you try grabbing the metal disk on the top of the bumper with a vise grip and loosening?
