on a recent 2008klr and deer collision, the deer hit my front right side, broke some plastic, hit my might leg and boot. My boot got pushed back and my heal broke the rear master cylinder bracket. I was lucky to stay uprigh.
Ya mean this thang? Right side drop in a rick garden. Zip tied it all out of the way, finished the ride, and rode home ~150 miles with the front brake only. Bent the actuator rod too, and replaced the whole works with used stock parts. Didn't know there were aftermarket replacements. Jim
Is that what you think I said? Read more closely, n00b. My comments were about the ridiculous suggestion to carry a spare and the crippling fear that many KLR riders have of breaking a motorcycle part. Am I free to offer an opinion based on my experiences, which include many miles of hard off-road riding on and with KLRs? I've broken nearly every other part on my bike, but lo, the rear master cylinder bracket is unblemished and I've never witnessed one break. That's what I said... in general.
Watched this one from the sideline, here's my .02 Spares are great to have, but think long and hard about what you carry. If that part breaks, are you stuck or able to limp home? When the answer is limp back, it's probably not worth carrying. Spare master link, yeah bring it. Brake mount? You have a spare already, it's called the front brake. I bring tools, tubes, air, master link, phone, and cash. Add a spark plug if it's a 2-smoke. After that, who knows. Odds are if you bring it something else will go wrong.
Zip ties, tie wire and fast setting epoxy go a long way. I also carry abt 20 ft of small dia braided rope for a tow if someone needs one (or me!)
Speckin of brakes, is there any real difference between the EBC front rotor and the Galfer Wave one? I'm thinking about taking the plunge, and the EBC is cheaper. What about the "CZR" sets on eLame with the twin piston calipers? That seems to be the thing to beat price wise, new pads, 320 rotor, and twin caliper for 160? It's that or 20 more for the one that reuses the stock caliper.
Hey KLRers - this is less about modifs then a request. I am shipping my KLR abroad and may need a lens swap for left hand riding. Can one of you take a close up photo of your headlight lens (frontal view) and PM it to me? My KLR is on a boat right now... ~CW
Thanks for the responses guys I'm not sure we all agree,on why we ride KLR's, but we do. And I know my '08 has been the cheapest, problem ridden vehicle ever owned. (oil consumption, wiring, rubber degradation, suspension, doohicky, muffler bolts, wheel bearings, handlebars, footpeg bolts..etc....) The footpeg thing is more of a, I suck as a rider somedays, issue. Riding too fast following the KTM's and DRZ's through the rocky terrain. I am not looking to protect the entire footpeg, but rather the cast(?) bracket that is supposed to be rigid mounted to the frame.. This is where I find the damage from the rocks, chipping away at the leading edge, and the bolt heads. Welding the pegs is a last resort, I think that the pegs are removable to facillitate servicing.. The rear MC mount... knock on wood, unbroken even after bending the lever away from the case. Low pro drain plug...check, customized by a file NEWNER, thanks for the pic! hope you didn't have to ride too far home using the passenger peg.
Im not sure why everyone else bought their KLR but one of my big reasons was it is like a blank slate. without any mods it gets you around but that is about it. On the other hand there are so many mods and farkles available due to the longevity of the species that you can basically build the bike you want, personalize it. One of my stress relieving pastimes is changing and wrenching on the bike, improving it and making it my own. This also answers the question for the weenies that question my tactics........
FWIW, my pegs have been welded dince 2008 and I have done major service on both sides of the motor with only minor clearance issues. There is one bolt on the clutch side by the peg that took some creativity to remove. That's it.
<!-- / controls above postbits --><!-- end content table --><!-- / end content table --><!-- post #19821831 --><TABLE id=post19821831 class=dg-post border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="100%" align=center><TBODY><TR><TD class=thead colSpan=2> Today, 12:13 PM <!-- #dg-post-header-date -->#1 <!-- #dg-post-header-count --> <!-- #dg-post-header --></TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD class="dg-post-user dg-align-center smallfont" width=175> GAS GUY<SCRIPT type=text/javascript> vbmenu_register("postmenu_19821831", true); </SCRIPT> <!-- #dg-post-user-name -->Beastly Adventurer <!-- #dg-post-user-title --> <!-- #dg-post-user-avatar -->Joined: Jul 2007 Location: Garden city, Michigan Oddometer: 1,637 <!-- #dg-post-user-info --></TD><!-- #dg-post-user --><TD id=td_post_19821831 class=dg-post-content>KLR Seat Concepts install <!-- #dg-post-title --><!-- message -->I ordered a Seat concepts seat kit for my 2008 KLR in the firmer than standard foam.So I figured I would share some pics and info in case anyone is interested. The new foam is much much nicer.It is not only wider but much denser and of high quality. After removing the 70 or so staples and removing the old cover and foam you want to smooth any sharp edges on the pan. I also smoothed all the little dimples from the old staples. Now is also a good time to check your pan for any clearace issues against your tank,especially if you have a aftermarket tank. I have a IMS 10 gallon tank and the left side is tight so I shaved a little off of the pan on that side which helps on installing the seat because the 2008 also has the little bolt on the tongue of the seat. Then I used a little 3m adhesive spray in a few areas to hold the foam on the pan before stapling on the cover. Here are a few shots of the foam on the pan before I put on the cover. I followed the instructions and stapled the cover on.It is kind of hard to get all the wrinkles out of the front area.Even after I get them out ,a few seem to come back after sitting on the seat.But overall I am happy with it for my first time . I chose the EMBOSSED cover with the small dimpling in it. Then I put the alaskan leather sheepskin over it. In the instructions they tell you they use a staple gun from Harbor freight tools.So I went and bought one on sale for $21.99 and let me tell you It works nicely. It is the small body 20 gauge wide crown gun and it shoots the arrow T50 staples just like the traditional silver hand stapler. You go to Home Depot to buy the staples.I used 1/4 inch staples for most of it and 5/16 in a few areas where the material overlapped. I have only went for a short ride so far but am impressed with the seat. It is the same shape and angle as stock but wider and firmer and that is what they advertise.It is a huge improvement over stock,but I think they should also offer a FLAT seat option also. I prefer a flat seat and in the future I may take the cover off and take a taper cut off of the seat to flatten it more but for now I am going to ride it as is . I hope this helps anyone interested in this seat. <!-- / message --><!-- sig -->__________________ </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
I don't know first-hand, but I'd think yes. There is clearance at the top side of the motor. Only the aft motor mount is a flush one with a through-bolt. The top and front mounts are offset. I think it can be done. ... Where has Willys been lately?