Bill Burr on Lance... http://thegoat.backcountry.com/2013...able-assessment-of-lance-armstrong-and-oprah/
Save me cash? How is spending hundreds on a frame saving me cash over using what i have? Some people just dont get it.....
Dammit! Stop that! You'll ruin my reputation! If you'd inherited a 'Busa engine and told me you were going to stick it in your Connie, I'd tell you the same things I've told BB: I don't think its smart, its going to be a hack job at best, and you're better off starting with a 'Busa frame and hanging touring stuff off that than starting with a Connie frame and adding HP (can you say 'twist into a pretzel?!) M
When the dept store frame snaps and get to pay even the smallest of ER bills, it will have paid off to spend the few hundred to buy a frame. But, like others said, it's your ride - do as you wish. Just know the advice given here is coming from some very experienced riders/mechanics.
Bogie, it's not clear; do you understand the difference between fork rake and axle-to-crown race...? if you're putting a road fork on a bike that was designed for the shorter fork that goes with a MTB wheel, you're going to be tipping the whole frame back, making for a slacker head tube angle and deader handling. so, you're starting with a bike that admittedly sucked at what it was allegedly for, and spending money to make it, uh, suckier? if you're doing this just for the drill, that's great, but i don't know if this is something i'd want to trust my teeth with to start with. not trying to get down on you, just trying to help point out the errors. while you may have been messing with bikes for a while, odds are there are a few people around here who made similar errors long before that, or better yet, learned from the people who went before us. (12 years, eh? that's cute,... shucks, i'm not the most experienced person here, but one of the MTBs i've still got was more than 12 years old over 12 years ago,... and that was custom built for me to replace my first! )
I think maybe a patch of cold weather perhaps? I had to layer for my ride to work this morning....busted out the arm warmers, I think it was overkill tho.
First off yes i do under stand the difference of fork to crown and fork rake... Axle to crown is quite simply the distance from the axle to the crown, measured in a straight line (i.e. Not following the fork) measured from the axle to the crown... Fork rake is the angle forward from the steer tube to where the axle mounts...also, did you know that the forks arent all that much different going from a solid 26" to a 700c? I have 700c wheels on the 26" fork and the brakes (road brakes for 700c) reach the rim perfectly) as for the reason it sucked as what it was sold for is because they sold it as an mtb with a road geo.... Like i said the whole geo is almost identical to my bros Dawes... Which is a 700x23c bike from the factory... The head tube angle is identical to his dawes, and as it sits right now is the exact same hieght at the crown as his... Like i said its a road frame that was sold as an mtb... I can understand your viewpoint on the whole thing (as well as everyone elses, its kinda hard to show my research without extensive pictures, and lengthy descriptions to show everything i have already looked into, so it would raise doubts with yall, as for the frame integrity, before i even started in the build i gave it a good examination, and, as someone who needs to know how to weld for my job, i see no issues with this frame, i didnt see any flaws or anything that would indicate a weak point. If i had seen any of that i wouldnt have even taken the frame in the first place... On a side note, with a crap 150mm crank, and circa 1970s kit (shifters and derailleurs) i rode this frame over 1500mi, so i already have full faith in the frame as a road frame, and am cofortable with the basic geo of it as a road frame... Like i said before it may not be ideal, but i like doing stuff the hard way sometimes...LOL its much more gratifying in the end.... In theory i could have gone on ebay and bought a new entry level schwinn for the price of my shifters and wheels... But then i would still have a lousy dept store quality frame, and the bottom of the barrel components, with crap rims.... I think i would be much better offwith buildi g up what i have, and maybe down the road upgrade the frame than start with all entry level crap... Pretty much all the stuff going on can be transferred over to a modern frameset, so its not like i am sinking an assload of money into something that i wont be able to use on anything else...
I dont really get your point... So i am putting decent componentry on a frame i already have... Im not getting bottom of the barrel stuff here, and the frame is from a bike that retailed for about 350 back in the 90s... Its not a stupid cheap bike at all... I just happened apon the frame for free and thought it would be fun to build up for something different...
Well, there is a fine line between offering advice and then knowing when to back off. It ain't reached that point yet.
close enough; now, do you understand how Trail is affected when you change wheel diameter? sorta' depends on what you call "[not] all that much different"; 622-559/2=31.5mm. keep in mind that we're talking about head tube angles, where differences in fractions of a degree make difference in handling that are noticeable. fork length and headset heights are all going to (literally) add up to make a difference in this. if you've already verified that all the parts you're swapping add up correctly, great. (judging by where the brakes line up on the rim doesn't tell you much; there's often a good deal of room for adjustment.) it's pretty hard to see the differences of a fraction of a degree in head tube angle by eye. and comparing the forks as you described doesn't take into account possible differences in tire height, so they'd have to have been standing on the same tires at the same pressure, too. i've seen some startling things after the paint came off a frame that weren't visible beforehand,... and if you're into welding, you might be able to imagine some of the kinds of voids you find when you start cutting bikes apart. (the worst i've seen were all Cannondales.) i would have liked to have seen you put your money and talents to work on a real bike that you bought at a discount off of Craigslist,... um, yeah, OK,... good luck!
<grits his teeth, puts on his straight face, tries to stiffle the giggles> well, so you have a frame with 1" threaded headset, and a 1" threadless fork? Whale, Aisle Bee Daiman. they still make 1" threadless headsets. http://www.aheadset.com/bicycle-headsets?p=TR.1 whats missing here is the size of the head tube this fits into, one can only pray its the same as what you have. I *think* that was pretty much standardized prior to the current 1-1/8" stuff. now you need to remove the headset from the frame (remove bars, stem, remove old forks, use long brass drift and hammer to tap out the headset cups from behind). take the frame to LBS to have the head tube reamed and faced (the tool to do this properly far exceeds the cost of this whole project). install threadless headset cups in freshly reamed and faced frame (I've been known to use a wood block and rubber mallet, its properly done with a press, others have used threaded rod and big washers, whats important is that both the cups go in STRAIGHT and fully seat). install the crown race on the fork. assemble the headset stack with the fork. now you get to find a stem that fits a 1" threadless system, should be fun since /everything/ is 1-1/8" nowdays.
At this point, he's gonna do it whether any of us think its smart or not. I can't wait till he installs the fork... @Pierce: they make shims for that 1" -> 1 1/8" thing. That's not a problem Any LBS that's been around a while should have a few laying around. M
