i would link some info on my 1993 r100gs. the clutch has started to slip at higher revs. when i give it full revs ie going for an over take. i have check the clutch cable and it fine as it pulls off ok. there is no slipping when i am riding slow or at low revs, slowly speed up. could oil have got in to the clutch? will i have to take the clutch out and have a look thanks for the help.
Yes...my GS did that way back then at pretty low milleage. Took apart immediately before I cooked the expensive friction plates,and replaced the friction disk only. Back on the road and still slipping.:huh Back in there, replaced the diaphragm spring....fixed and for a very long time after that, as in much more milleage than the first failure altough I did keep an eye out for that in my maybe too frequent spline lubes. If you are sure that the release/actuation parts in/behind the transmission aren't binding, then you'll have to go in. Not hard to do but mark them clutch parts so they can be reinstalled as per the procedure for all them BMW clutches. After, and if you go in there, I can show you a GS clutch I have here, nothing wrong with it as in no slippeage, but I don't think you could mix & match too many new/old parts with that one.:eek1
Why not lube the splines? It doesn't hurt anything. If done right. Spline lubes often ruin clutches and cause drive shaft bolts to come loose and possibly tear up some expensive stuff. The sad part is they do not need the splines lubed unless the clutch is grabby and that almost never happens on a regualrly ridden bike. My advise is to replace the friction disk if it has been oiled. Generally speaking, replace all three disks. The clutch very often slips not because of the friction disc but because the other two plates have warped. Get a straight edge and lay it across the plates. The inside of the plates always warp away from the edges. They ALWAYS warp at least a little but more than a 1/16th" or 3/32nds and the plates need to be replaced. They very often are part of the problem. The spring should always be replaced. Good luck!
the bike has 80k on the clock. its used every day and has no work on the clutch so far. will have to take out the clutch then. only problem is its my only transport and i have low momey as i now bmw parts cost a lot. will update after i have looked more at it.
With 80K (miles or Kilometers?) it's most likely a worn clutch. It would be dripping oil if the problem is contamination. If you're short of money (surplus of time?) in which case, it may be worth installing a good low-mileage clutch pack from a parted-out bike. At any rate, however it's done, this is the warning. You've got a little time before it gets really bad, so take it easy and don't let it slip - as that will cause it to deteriorate quicker.
its 80kmiles there is allways a small oil drip under the big rubber boot but i am not sure were its coming from been there for 2years but so miner i let it. but the g/box level and the bevel box level are ok and the engine level seems ok. i should be able to take the back end off my bike with some help and then just see whats there when i get it out.
i would gues it be the silencer ,back wheel and swining are off, g-box out then the clutch. bit by bit the back end of the bike will be off and my other shed will be filled up. (i have a small shed and my garage)
80k miles and it's most likey worn out? I see the late model setups lasting well over 100k miles all the time. In my experience and if you use them right, you couldn't ask for a longer lasting setup.
At 80k your done. You can try adjusting the TOB arm by loosening the adjuster at the handlebar and setting the free play at the back of the arm to see if you can milk it for a few more miles. The average for BMW clutch is about 60k. If any of you have made it longer you are lucky.
I've had more than a few R80G/Ss go 125K+ with the original clutch and they still mic out to around 5+mm. Of course seen the other side too..30K and slipping after too many wheelies.
I have seen them slipping from brand new in a few days more than a couple of times. It really brings down the average. Treated right even while being abused, they usually last well over 100k miles. I wheelie my bike all the time since I got it at 28k miles. It now has 101k and is not slipping at all AND I ride in hilly San Francisco all the time WITH a close ratio transmission and a LOT more than stock power. I would just about agree with euro if he was just talking about the earlier setup but . . . the later one is MUCH better. I am just trying to help but in my experience keeping track of the friction disc thickness on the late model setups is barking up the wrong tree. Keeping track of pressure plate and cover plate warpage is the issue.
It probably seems daunting if you haven't done it before but takes around 1 and a half hours when your used to it. Half a days work for the whole job. And if you need a whole clutch I have a complete one with only a few thousand miles on it you can have for £50 + the postage. Came out of a rebuilt bike that was subsequently converted to a heavy flywheel.
i have ajusted the clutch arm and the lever free play and stopped the slipping for now i think the clutch is shot and on the way out. i think i will have to put the bike in for surgery.
