Yamaha WR250R Mega Thread

Repost because it got lost in the shuffle...

Thanks Old_Crow. The G2 looks like it would help, though $80 is kind of pricey.

The TPS adjustment KansasBob and others have done seems to be the cure, but it is a bit technical for me. Shame the TPS is so hard to get to.

Thanks for the intel, I thought it would have an ODO...

I just found a PDF of the owners manual. It says

I'll say this.................. I hated the throttle snatch on mine so much that if the TPS setting didn't fix it I was going to sell the bike. It's so much better now, (even though still not as smooth as my KLX) that I plan to keep the WRR and let the KLX go instead.

I am glad that some of you are benefiting from my post on the WR forum. Mine is greatly improved that I barely notice it anymore. I know that it is still not as good as some of my old carbureted bikes though. I also notice much less stalling that used to happen at very low throttle levels during tight trail riding.

Are you sure it's a WR "R" sounds like a WR "F".

FWIW, Last time I checked my law books (ALL) plateable/ On-Road vehicles sold in U.S. must have a functioning Odometer.

Well, if I were closer to AL or KS, I'd beg and offer bribes until one of you guys did mine for me!

I am a brand new rider, and when I first got my WR I thought I was nervous or something was wrong with the bike. I had ridden a TW200 for my MSF course, which had gotten me excited to get a bike. At first I thought I had bought the wrong bike. I did a little research and the info on the TPS seemed way beyond abilities. When I found the G2 I called them right away and got it in a day or two. I noticed an immediate and enormous difference for me in curing the jerkiness. My preferred type of riding is off road and I can't imagine riding the bike in slow speed technical (to me) sections with the throttle response I was getting...felt like I would have been riding a wild bull.

So which G2 throttle tamer are you guys buying? Nothing but sport bikes listed.

I have had problem with a turn signal. When I was testing the current with a tester, I touched both connections for the turn signals. I heard a click and knew I blew the 7.5 fuse. I looked at the signal fuse and yes it was bad so I replaced it. NOW...nothing else electrical is working on the bike except the fuel pump and the turn signals. When I turn the ignition on....no headlight, taillight, nothing on the instrument panel.
I checked all fuses and they seem to be good. I checked the ignition fuse and it is good.
Any ideas?

I've never had an issue with the off-idle performance. It has a low first gear, but it comes off idle like I'd expect any bike with a low first gear to accelerate. Not sure what you mean by "snatchy-ness" but if you mean it has immediate power then yes it does. To me that's a good thing! To each his own I guess.

I just called and told them what bike I have. The guy I spoke with told me they sell a fair number for WRR's.

Agreed. Never noticed anything negative on mine. I'm used to fuel injected bikes though. Perhaps these folks are mostly coming from other carborated dual sports and aren't used to the effects of the more efficient injection?

If you're riding fast, and hitting hard it's not a problem, but if you chugging through a tight twisty single track in the woods it's a huge PITA. You have to use the clutch all the time. Same thing with doing a U-turn on a tight two lane.

It kind of depends on your factory TPS setting too......... not all exactly the same.

My 2003 Z1000 with about 4 times the power and fuel injection does not have any snatchiness. I knew the WR could be better.

I may have dropped it slightly when I overshot a sandy corner the other day. Today I noticed the bottom of the clutch cover has a thin coating of oil. Upon further investigation I notice a dent and a tiny crack in the clutch cover that is just barely seeping oil. What do you guys think, should I fix it properly by buying another $50 clutch cover, or will a little jb weld or something do it just as well?

Mine is fine. I did kill a bit of surging though with the back door hack to richen it up 2 points.

I can't see a bend in it but it's very hard to see it at all. Facing the side of the bike it goes back into the left side of the unmoveable part twoards the engine. Front right corner of unmoveable part if you were sitting on the bike. I hope the explanation makes sense.

I've seen trailside jb weld repairs patch big holes in cases , last for ever.

If you dond mind the glob, go for it.