Wrenching on my R80 G/S, an ongoing therapy

1984 R80 G/S WB1034803E6362926

1) 05/6/86 Purchased New from Psycle Therapy, Columbus Ohio by B Grimes (Urbana Ohio).
2) 4/16/98 Purchase from Competition Accessories (Springfield Ohio) with 57,4557 miles, C. Roelling (Miamsburd, OH), for $1,500
3) Gunner65 purchased and only had it for 3hours
4) Lexington owner purchased it from inmate Gunner65
5) 09/11/2008 One Less Harley (KY) with 95,000 miles from a guy from Lexington KY, who didn't own it very long.

According to Gunner65 the bike has been to Alaska at least twice. Cosmetically challenged when I purchased it, mechanically very good and well maintained. Very clean oil oil pan w/ no sludge. Nice original example. Bike now has a R100GS front end w/ HH Race Tech Inserts, 4 pot Brembo, Taller 5th gear, top end rebuilt, Enduralast, repainted blue.

Links to miscellaneous post-

1) Death Wobble

2) Connecting Volt guage to G/S

3) Bosch Starter Repair, Bendix Replacement

4) Motor won't turn over, this is unusual-Starter related

5) Clutch Balance marks

6) Head job, rings, rod bearings-good post

7) Painting HPN tank (polyethlene)??, why not?

8) 320mm brake upgrade

9) Tanks to fit an R80 G/S

10) R80 G/S upside down brake arm conversion

11) Fix for Acerbis (OMG) petcock, left and right ones now point the right way

12) Transmission rebuild mislabeled 17.5 degree primary gear

13) BMW Performance School

14) Trail Tech MR16 HID lights are crap, 2 lights 2 failures!!!

15) 4 Pot Brembo Caliper conversion for GS

16) Damned neutral switch again!!!

17) Airbox Engine Breather Modification

18) Happy Trails Top Mounting Bracket Fix

19) Page 3, Post #45 ring gear bearing replacement

20) Page 5, post #65 R100GS front end

21) Page 1, post #10 Flywheel Issues, no rivets

22) Float bowl leashed Sololobo's article

23) HH Race Tech R100GS fork inserts.

24) Final Drive Breather Hose

26) Carb jetting Changes and notes

27) Hanging Idle discussion

28)Larger Foot Pegs from KTM

29) R80G/S to 2012 MOA Rally via the TAT

30) Float Bowl Leashes

31) DRZ forks, Unholy Union w/ Prutser's top clamp
32) Frame Straightening and Bracing

33) Failed Heads report at 25,000 miles Thanks CARL aka Flying T Pot

34) Side stand lengthening

35) Solo seat rack mod and rack mounts

36) Nippondenso Starter install

37) Bean Can repair with new HES

38) Timing Chain Replacement (page 20, post 366)


So here's the old gal as purchased, notice the big honking headlights and angle irons for brackets.




...and here it is now.

(Update bike current pict)

One of this first things I did was drop the oil pan to check for gunk in the engine and check the oil pickup. I've heard these can loosen up. All was well inside along with changing all the fluids, that included the brake fluid.

(Oil pan w/oil)

Next on the project was to pull the tranny and lube the splines, plus since the rear frame was off why not powder coat it???

(spline Lube PIct)

Then a custom muffler guard for the Sito Muffler out of plain metal rods.
Look here for link

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=387232

(sito custom Muffler Guard)


Then some eyebrows for the large PIIA's as I was getting a glare from the top edge.






Then reinforcing stock racks for the Happy trails panniers. Gussets added.

(saddle BAg gussets)



And a rear bar, stood up to a good crash, but probably should be bigger.

Pannier cross brace

Happy Trails bags mounted plus new paint on tank and side covers. I had the original blue tank scanned for a color match. This tank is from a R100GS with the seat tab cut off.




Cut down side cover for muffler and accessory plug added.

accessory plug


1st installment hope I haven't bored anyone w/ the repost!!

In.

I wonder if there's any way for the Mod to "Join" your old posts to your new thread. I know Mods can do it. Perhaps if you get the info, Putts could do the heavy lifting. Just a thought.

T.

I noticed you have the larger brake rotor in the later pictures. How do you like it? Did it make much of a difference?

Cheers, Gunther

One Less

I went back to have a look and the "original" rotor on the standard looking carrier. It is quite interesting. It seems to be a floater or semi floater judging by the big buttons. Any idea what is was and where its from? Is it still around? Can I have it please?

Instead of reposting what has already been discussed I will supply one picture from the post and a link to the discussion. I think this will work out best, not to mention easier!

For my post and pictures on the 320 mm brake upgrade look here...

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=431606



I didn't like the bolt heads sticking out so the bracket was countersunk.






or thoughts of adding a second disc brake to the G/S, check out link below-

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=429709

Nice. Keep it coming ...

If I get off my but and don't feel to guilty about not working, I'll post on the upside down brake lever and some post on replacing the drive and driven bearing on the final drive.

What is it that your are asking??? The original rotor is a "floater" the 320 has some laser cuts to allow for heat expansion. I'm keeping my original rotor.

Personally I like the 320mm conversion, I can now lock up the front wheel, does anyony really need a 48 piston front brake, just kidding about a 48 piston brake, but six piston seems a little overkill, maybe I'm not ridding hard enough or carrying that much weight.

Sololobo wasn't that impressed with the 320mm and stock caliper I think he has higher expectations.

Silly me forgot I was trying to post my wrenching in one place, so to move this topic to where it needs to be----

R80 G/S, loose change sound
<hr style="color: rgb(87, 87, 87);" size="1"> <!-- / icon and title --> <!-- message --> I've noticed an unusual noise from my R80G/S. It is noticed when shutting off the engine and at idle. Noise does not go away when pulling in clutch at idle.

Sounds like a metallic rattle, briefly when shut down, basically like loose change, clanging together. Not overly noisy and most people probably wouldn't notice.

I'm thinking it may be the starter, which had new bendix installed last year.

I've put a screwdriver up to the heads and the front cover and listened, no unusually noises there.

Recent work done, tranny installed, valve and ring job.

Any thoughts???

I had suggestions to check the, exhaust collector, center stand, timing chain, and exhaust nuts.

So to investigate further on Thursday before leaving to the GA mountain rally, the starter was removed, because it seemed that the noise was coming from that area.

With the starter out the kick starter was used to rotate the engine, well the noise was definitely coming from the clutch area!!! Clang clang when turning the engine over with it and also when rocking the wheel back and forth in gear. Then I looked where the starter engages the ring gear....well then I saw and heard where the noise was coming from.

ring gear noise cause pict

The ring gear is held on by 6 6mm allen head bolts, and these were backing out, not just one or two but all six, and two were missing the nuts on the back side.

Ring gear with allen bolts pict

The threads were ruined so replacements were sought out, mind you this is at 8 PM, and my only option for a 6mm-10mm socket head is Lowe's. Remember I'm really wanting to leave for the Ga Rally tomorrow at 7am.


A quick trip to Lowe's to source out 6 allen heads, I'm not optimistic. The airhead gods must have been watching, since THEY HAD WHAT i NEEDED!!!!

Now to get the allen head out and replace one at a time, while not dropping the nut inside. I got all 6 replaced and lightly threaded. Wow this is going well...don't you think!!!!

Of course you know the airhead gods have a twisted since of humor, don't you??? Now I proceed to tighten the 6 bolts down (Yes I used locktight). Some of you bright people know that this is going too well, right?

Ok. last two nuts to tighten down, yep then it happens, the 10 mm wrench slips on the final tightening and.....drops. Where you might ask? In a most unlikely spot., through the hole where the starter engages the ring gear, WELL FUCK!!!!!!!!! and a few more explicative s in disbelief. IT has dropped behind the ring gear and crank case housing, but I can still see the wrench.

So off to the toolbox to get a magnet to fish the wrench out. Got it.....but as the airhead gods would have it, the wrench snags something and drops, completely out of sight. It's now about 8:30 and there is only one thing to be done.....if i really want to go to the rally...pull the tranny to retrieve the wrench.

Ok- to make a long story short, the wrench was retrieved and the R80 was taken for a short road test at 12:00 that night!!

Ride to the rally was great, perfect temps and about 30 miles of mountain gravel roads.

Dude! Glad you found that noise.

Loose bolts on any rotating machinery bits bode no good. BTDT more than once in my life.

As for the wrench falling back in, I keep not one, but two of the telescoping magnets that fit into your shirt pocket protector when collapsed. Just in case I forget to put one back where they live on the side of the rollaround tool chest.

In addition I keep two pairs of forceps and two antique mechanical fingers in the bucket organizer of "ready tools" for most garage chores.

I also like your organizing your mods and stuff under one umbrella. I hadn't seen your pannier rack mods before, and like those. Keep it coming.

I have never seen ring gears bolted to the clutch carrier. Every one I have here is riveted. Immediately at hand I have a 1st revision '82 or so Airhead and an Oilhead. I'd be looking for a new carrier.

Hum NEVER??? The socket head were 10mm or maybe 11mm long. There was locktight on them. Your comments on riviting puzzle me as to why the ring gear was bolted in place. Is it bad that it's bolted in place??? IF so why???

There were three '81-on carriers. The first was know for breaking and I don't know if that one was bolted or not. The second and third are riveted. Details are on Snowbum's site somewhere.

It could simply be that rivets are the correct fastener for this application.

Well, hypothetically I suppose bolts might come loose.

hypothetically come loose, yep, that's for sure


BTW, Anton do you have a used one for sale, or you wanna trade for an input shaft. You might need one sometime.

If you want the 2nd gen one I have, sure. Dunno what the difference is between that and 3rd gen, but I think it's minor. The big change was 1st to 2nd.

Sort of like the input shafts I guess. Yours is the late clutch spline but with the early fluting that needs the 519 gear.

you're a bad ass.!!! Hope you enjoyed the rally!!!!

It was either bust ass Thursday night or go to work on Friday......hum.....work or ride????

Found some nice roads, that is until we caught up to the road grater, which put a nice "fluff" on the gravel, made it nice and soft. Now I don't mind the rear wheel spinning up hill, but the curves and downhills were giving me fits.
Installed the Race Tech stiffer springs, which helped the front end some.

I've signed up for the BMW performance class in July, R1200, oh baby, or should I say Barbie (couldn't resist).

A while back I was out ridding w/ the stock foot pegs and rubber inserts which become slippery when wet. So I removed the rubber and at least the pegs were grippy. The stock ones are quite narrow so I wanted to see what larger ones would be like, plus not wanting to spend a lot of money on pricey aftermarket ones. So to the garage w/ a cutoff tool, welder and some scrap metal.........

fab wider pegs pict

The top foot peg is the stock one, the lower is from a 1996 KTM 300MXC (aka POS) I once had. The swivel mount was too wide so it was cut off.

A new mount was made out of scrap flat stock

flat stock for peg mount pict

The metal was relieved to make 90 degree bends then welded up.

peg mount being welded pict

Holes were drilled into the new mount, sorry no pictures, then the KTM platform was situated to be close to the original footpeg location. Then tack welded in place, adjusted then welded completely.

finished pegs pict