Real world KTM 350 EXC impressions?

https://www.bulletproofdesigns.com/products/type/radiator-guards/ktm-radiator-guards.html

Nice work, care to share your technique?

Thanks. Pretty straight forward. Dead blow hammer, a piece of square aluminum and patience.

Here's a guide that is quite helpful:
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/Abl78E_6TcI" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Andrew

Nice, thanks for that. I just happen to have one to practice on. Just need to figure out how to realign the fittings.

I have a 2015 350 exc f and I've done the desmog and the bike is extremely jerky when coasting in gear and I try to gently roll on the throttle. Has anyone else had this going on? I also have noticed a popping on deceleration even after the desmog so I'm not sure if the problems are related. It starts and runs great I like it just can't be light on the throttle without it being all jerky

What do you think?

Remapped?

Remapping fattens up the bottom end a bit, which improves throttle response.

Unabiker guards installed. Hopefully I don't test them next weekend.



Andrew

beautiful trail ride today on my new '14 350...

Hey there gang! So I got my self a slightly used 350 this summer. The PO had set it up with sumo wheels/tires had it de-smogged and reprogramed. I haven't done a thing to it but put gas in and ride it. So now with it getting a little damp I decided it's time to put the stock wheels back on and a little maintenance.

This weekend I changed the oil/filter and reprogramed for the wheel size. Something he had done was remove the horn. Where I ride I like having a horn so I put it on but in a different location. (See pics) I want you fellas advice as to whether that's a safe spot? It's about 3/4 of an inch from the pipe. Is it or the wires going to melt? There was a free bracket that I assume was used with the emissions parts.






Also in the sale he included CEV headlight control switches. I got this installed but now find my kill button does not work. I see that there is a wire unused as shown in the lower right portion and in the plastic housing there is a wire that loops back in. Is that where I need to make a connection?



Sorry I'm new to this stuff and appreciate the help. Loving the bike and this site/thread are very helpful!

I moved my horn to this location, opposite side.

The old Clockworks tank required you to lengthen the fuel line hoses AND shorten two radiator hoses. The new tank only requires the shortened radiator hoses. When I installed mine I didn't like the fit of the thermostat with the shortened hoses, so I ended up installing a thermostat bypass kit.

I have tried three aftermarket tanks; Acerbis 3.0 gallon, Clockworks 3.1 gallon, and KTM 3.5 gallon. Here are my thoughts on each one:

Acerbis 3.0: Good quality, good fit, except the radiator shroud does not fit tight against the radiator and it puts stress on the shroud. I think the stress can be reduced by removing the bottom shround mount screw. My only complaint with this tank is the offset fuel cap which makes it difficult to mount my tank bag for adventure rides. It uses the $35 1/8" banjo bolt fuel connector.

Clockworks 3.1: Good quality. Modifying the radiator hoses is a pain, but if you want to also install a thermostat bypass kit it isn't an issue. It uses a steal plate to mount the fuel pump, which seems like a good design. It uses the $75 3/8" banjo bolt fuel connector (I have no idea why it cost twice as much as the 1/8" version). It has a centered fuel cap, but it sits up higher than the seat, so my tank bag still doesn't fit great. It works, but there is a big gap underneath it.

KTM 3.5 (13L): Good quality, good fit, very easy to mount and remove (only one bolt). Uses stock 1/4 turn fuel cap. Centered cap and low profile so my tank bag fits great. It uses the 1/8" banjo bolt.

I prefer the looks of the stock tank, but the utility of the KTM 3.5 gallon tank. I just leave the 3.5 gallon tank on all the time, but only carry as much fuel as I think I will need for the days ride in order to keep the bike light.

Acerbis:


Clockworks:


KTM:

^What kind of header armor is that? I keep burning my pants.

Also, I was going to start my bike yesterday, it was kind of cold, and the clutch wouldn't fully disengage (it was dragging). I'm wondering if this is why it's usually difficult to start cold, and I just finally noticed it because it was cold enough to make it worse. Once I got it started and the bike warmed up, it was fine, but I'm kind of concerned. I probably need to flush the hydraulic fluid, but have you guys ever experienced this?

Just another day in paradise

It's pretty normal on my '06 450exc. Haven't had it happen on the 3fity yet.

Went into the weekend with no intentions of buying a bike. Came out of the weekend with this

Needing to put an order in for oil/filters online. Wondering what are some things y'all can think of that would be good to have on hand.

I'm thinking;
- Oil
- Oil Filters
- Spare air filter
- Fuel filters
- Anything else off the top of your head?

I've started using filter skins. So far I like them a lot.

Congrats, looks just like mine...




Off the top of my head, I would recommend an Eline header heat guard, Acerbis front disc guard, rear brake guard and some pull straps front/rear. Slavens has great prices and stellar customer service.

Mine (13) does it as well when not warmed up. Might be a little drag when @ operating temps, but not bad.

A little clutch drag is normal. You can flush and reflush the clutch system until you're blue in the face, it's still gonna have some drag, especially when cold and the oil is thick. It's the clutch plates sticking together. My bike will stall about half the time when I put it in gear when first thing in the morning if I don't give it a little gas. My old RFS did about the same, it's just pretty typical KTM clutch, but I've seen plenty of other brands have the same issue. It's probably also really hard to hit neutral at a standstill with the engine running. My clutch lever is set so that the clutch disengages with my index finger before the lever touches my middle finger, yet I can pull the lever to the bar when cold and it still doesn't want to disengage.

If the clutch is dragging, can't you just walk the bike a few feet in neutral to disengage it?


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