So my bike is running great. 75 R90/6 with unknown miles. Had to fuck with it (why not ), and still runs great. I added a Dyna points booster because it's been 20 years since I've had to mess with points and well, I'd rather not on a regular basis if I don't need to. Bike still runs great. It used to start from dead cold (overnight) on the 2nd shot, now it does on the first. Here's where it gets weird... It used to idle when warmed up at just shy of 1k It now idles at about 1500 If I remove the booster, the idle settles in at 1k Question is: Is something bad that the booster is masking that I should deal with before I get stranded or is the booster just that magical? Bike ran over 100mph easily (theoretically of course ) before and does still. So, do I break out the worry beads and the voodoo doll or just adjust my idle and forget about it? New points, old condenser, old coils, old but good plugs, shitty looking mismatched plug wires :eek1, new fuel line & filters, no change to the carbs, no change in timing settings, no changes made elsewhere that could affect it. Since it's cooler weather out, I'm running regular grade gas, but both idle speeds happen on it anyhow.
As long as it's consistent when you cut the booster in and out, just reset the idle for the more powerful ignition. I'm not sure if that ignition has a cap in it to replace the function of the condensor (it's a capacitor). You might ask Dyna. but I would replace an old one. If it is indeed needed you want it good. It's "other", and principle function, to discharge through the coils. It's a resonant circuit and that's where the big voltage is coming from. Someone has a nice page on the net on it with oscilloscope traces showing the resonance and voltage buildup.
OK, cool. Thanks. I have a new condenser I can put in. I guess I should check and make sure timing isn't heavily advanced as well but then again, it's not pinging on regular fuel.
The points gap (dwell) and timing still need to be correct. You also still need to lube the points felt and advance mechanism on a regular basis. But the points themselves won't wear as much. The rubbing block will continue to wear as before and if you can get a dwell reading, you can watch for this with that and know when to change the points or adjust the gap. Make sure the points faces are super clean (use technical alcohol). If you go full electronic (like a Boyer) you get away from all of this and it's pretty much set and forget.
I noticed an improvement in the spark when I fitted a points driven ignition amplifier. Theory is that the faster and clean switching improves the coil output at low revs. I did get first time on the button starting but if idle speed increased it was very marginal. My ignition amplifier does have a capacitor of the same value built in and the instructions said to remove the existing one. Sounds like you now have good ignition. I wouldn't worry.
Thanks guys. Off to the attic this weekend to find the timing light and dwell meter. I'll put the voodoo doll away and adjust the idle.
