The Adventure Begins... Tejas A La Tierra

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In the morning, I was walking through the Plaza de Armas (Central Park) and saw a crowd of people huddled around something. I decided that I should check it out. Watch the short video to see what it was.

For lunch, I went to the W hotel and had lunch with my friend Rodrigo who works with a money management firm in Santiago called Capital Advisors. He treated me to a nice meal... I owe you one Rodrigo.

Later that evening these lovely ladies invited me to diner at a restaurant called Tiramisu. How could I resist? Megan (Colorado), Jessie (Buenos Aires) and Lucila (Buenos Aires).

Afterwards we went for drinks. Megan and Jessie got comfortable in these comfy chairs.

Lucila and Megan made life imitate art.

I just kicked back and thought... I'm a lucky guy.

Good times... with good folks.

For the full story visit Out On The Town

In Santiago I picked up some parts for Emi... extra spark plugs, chain and some lube. I still was unable to find new sprockets. I checked three Suzuki dealers, but none of them had the parts in stock. I'm thinking that I may order them online and have them delivered somewhere along my route.

I was hoping to make it to Tierra Del Fuego before the winter sets in. It is usually okay in March, but the weather starts to change in April, so I hear. Cold and rain... I can tolerate it... snow and ice... I think not.

There had been some road blockades and gas shortages in the southern part of Chile due to some protests. I wasn't sure if I would be able to travel through the Lake District where the problems were taking place... but I sort of had a plan.

Unfortunately, I got a late start. I headed south through part of the Chilean wine country. As I rode along the highway through the vinyards I could smell the grapes. Intoxicating. I really wanted to stop and visit some of the vineyards, but I needed to make some distance. I'll have to come back when I have more time.

I rode until the sun began to set. Then I pulled into a town called Linares. Nothing of great interest around... so I asked a police officer where I might be able to stay the night... I was hoping to camp.

He said that it would be okay to camp in the park in front of their office. Sounded good and safe. It was late, so I didn't put up a fight... I just put up my makeshift tent...a ground cover and an lean-to cover hooked to the back of Emi... and laid down for the night.

I got up early the next morning and rode to the town of Pucon. Pucon is known as a adventure tourist town that is overshadowed by a volcano and surrounded by hot springs. Many people climb the volcano, mountain bike the hills and paddle the rivers. In the winter there is skiing. I didn't feel like I had time to enjoy it all. I was being called south. However, in the evening, I was able to visit the hot springs.

From Pucon I traveled to Puerto Montt. From Santiago to Puerto Montt was about 1300 km. Not bad for 3 days of riding.

Puerto Montt is a seaside town that has an active seafood market and...

This...NAVIMAG! NAVIMAG is a ferry that travels from Puerto Montt (Central Chile) to Puerto Natales (Southern Chile). For some reason I like saying NAVIMAG... it just rolls off my tongue.

The journey takes 3 nights and 4 days and is suppose to be pretty scenic. BBC Travel and Leisure sites the NAVIMAG voyage as one of the most beautiful ferry rides in the world. I thought that I should check it out... it might actually be good, save me some time, save me some wear and tear on Emi and most importantly... get me around the gas shortage areas in the Lake District. I'm hoping that I can revisit the Lake District later... after the protests, blockades and gas shortage situation are resolved. I can't take credit for this idea... my friend Rodrigo suggested the route.

So I booked a trip on the Navimag. Me as a passenger. Emi as cargo. We would set sail in 3 days.

For the full story visit Southbound

The NAVIMAG ferry was not leaving for 3 days. I decided to check around Puerto Montt for some motorcycle maintenance.

Turns out there was a Suzuki dealer and workshop in Puerto Montt. I took Emi in for an oil change, filter change, lube and valve timing.

I've never done a valve timing, but I watched the mechanic as he did the work. Seems pretty simple. I'll have to try it some day.

I also asked the mechanic to add a carb drainage tube and adjust the idle a little. Emi had been running a little rough. He did it and showed me how to do it. Now I know.

I didn't feel like staying in Puerto Montt for three days, so I decided to visit a town just north called Puerto Varas.

I stopped by the lakeside town of Puerto Varas. It's a small to midsize town surrounded by hill country and a few volcanos.



I'm not much of a shopper, but the town happened to have stores by some of my favorite brands. The North Face... Salomon...



And Orvis.

I did not buy anything from TNF or Salomon, but I could not resist picking up a new fly reel from Orvis. This is Southern Chile and I'd soon be traveling to Patagonia. Some world class trout fishing is available in the rivers in the area. I could not pass up the opportunity. I have not bought many souvenirs on this trip, so I thought that a nice reel would be an excellent souvenir, especially if I wound up catching a memorable fish.

A simple but bare necessity.




I met a fellow traveler named Eva from Germany and we decided to check out some of the sites.



We made a side trip a town on the other side of the lake called Fruitillar. It's a town that was established by German settlers and it was easy to see the influence in the architecture and food.



We visited the Museo Colonial Aleman (German Colonial Museam).



There were some buildings that demonstrated how the German settlers lived during the colonization of the area.



A dining room.



A blacksmith shop and stable.

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A water powered mill.



Ahh... fresh spring water.

I learned a new German word...kuchen (cake). I found a bakery that had a raspberry meringue kuchen. I ordered it...ate it... and it was gut (good).

For the full story visit Puerto Varas

When I was visiting the Orvis store I inquired with the shop manager where I should try out my new reel.



He directed me to the Rio Hueno Hueno. It was about a 40km ride east of Puerto Varas. I was hoping that the Rio Hueno Hueno would be bueno bueno.



It had been raining quite a bit over the past few days. Upon my arrival I noticed that the river was quite high and the current was running rather fast.



Near a bridge and down an embankment I found a nice little spot to park Emi.



I prepped my rod and reel.




Then I set off and hiked maybe a quarter mile down the river bank.



I was the first person on the river...not a soul around.

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I found a nice piste and started to fish. Magical.

As I mentioned before, the river was high and the current was running fast. Not ideal conditions for trout fishing. Ends up that I could not spot nor catch any fish. Still the endeavor was worthwhile. The ride to the river was fun. The area around the river was beautiful. The weather was cooperating with partly sunny and partly cloudy skies. Just a wonderful day.



As consolation, there were a number of raspberry bushes along the banks of the river. I ate my fill.

I returned to Puerto Varas in the early afternoon. After a taste of fly fishing in Chile...I knew I wanted more.

I returned to Puerto Montt.

I visited the artisan market.

Where they produce various types of woven objects of wool...

And these wooden mates (mugs) for drinking yerba mate.

The artisan market was near the seafood market

Where they had various types of shellfish...

Sea urchins...

And packaged smoked salmon. I bought a package.

There were a number of friendly dogs hanging around ready to pick up scraps.

But I wasn't in Puerto Montt to shop or eat seafood.

I was there to NAVIMAG!

While these people were waiting to board the NAVIMAG

I was boarding with Emi into the cargo deck.

I met some fellow adventure motorcyclists while boarding the NAVIMAG. Jordan and Sandra are from Canada and riding around South America on BMW F650s... and NAVIMAGing.

We set sail.
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It was smooth sailing.

There were a number of people on board that I'd met in the previous week while staying at different hostels... Grant (USA) Eva (Germany) and Joyeeta (USA)

To pass time we played cards, mostly spades. Thomas (Holland), Eva (Germany), Joyeeta (USA) and Monique (Holland).

Settlers of Catan...

The dice version...

and Bingo.

We would eat this this cafeteria.

We'd pass time in this lounge.

We traveled through channels and fjords.

The captain kept us on course from the bridge.

It was cloudy for much of the trip.

But even from inside the scenery was pretty cool.

And once once in a while the skies opened up.

To reveal some of the surrounding mountains and fjords.

Our little ferry was dwarfed by the immensity of our surroundings.

A highlight of the trip was when we passed by this glacier.

Before I knew it, we had reached Puerto Natales and it was time to deboard.

For the full story visit NAVIMAGing

From Puerto Natales I rode to Punta Arenas.

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The road to Punta Arenas was asphalt, smooth and scenic, but a bit windy.

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I came across this Colombian Adventure Scooter rider who was riding from Colombia to Ushuaia on a Yamaha 125 Scooter.

From Punta Arenas I took a 2 hour ferry ride to the town of Provenir. It was late, so I found an hotel and stayed the night in Provenir.
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From Provenir to San Sebastion, the road was dirt and gravel and through the rain.

In San Sebastian I passed through the Argentinian border post.

The border agent incorrectly stamped my temporary driver permit with an exit stamp instead of an entry stamp. Luckily I caught the error and she corrected it.

I passed through the town of Rio Grande and I knew that I was close.

The scenery changed from desert to coast to forrest.

I was getting close and I knew the end of the road was approaching.

I took a break at this scenic overlook to take it all in.

The overlook had a nice view of a lake and the Girabaldi Pass.

And then I arrived in Ushuaia.

Well... I made it. An ordinary guy... on an extraordinary adventure. The adventure began in Texas.

Texas a la Tierra... Austin, Texas, USA to Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego, Argentina... The End of the World...El Fin Del Mundo.

About 13,000 miles (20,000 km) over 5 months.

My trusty girl Emi along for the ride.

Through sun, heat, clouds, cold, wind and rain.

Over asphalt, gravel, dirt and sand... land, air and sea.

Great people, places and adventures along the way.

Time to jump for joy!

There is not much more for me to do...

...other than to head south.

Great up date and pics Troy! S. Chile and Arg. are fantastic! I hope to see it again some day! (I was all over the area in the 70's)

You are not checking "valve timing", but rather valve clearance. Timing is taken care of via your ECU/CDI box. All electronic. This is a job you really should learn to do yourself. It is super easy. Just make sure you learn where the TDC marks are and that you are on the compression stroke. Once you have done it once it's easy. You only need feeler gauges and something to remove inspection covers.

Same goes with the carb. I would learn to pull it off and clean it ... or at least rotate it round and remove float bowl. Rough running is more likely the Fuel-Air Pilot screw ... or a clogged filter.

Have you checked the little filter that sits in the metal fuel inlet tube that goes into carb? It's a tiny white filter. (on the road I carry a spare)

Did you buy the extended fuel screw? If not, then access is tricky. But fine tuning this screw can smooth running, especially at high altitude. Do it HOT ... then set your Idle last. Turn in fuel screw (clockwise) until idle becomes rough ... then back it out no more than 1/4 turn or until idle smooths. IN is lean (better fuel economy) ... OUT is rich, smoother idle but use of more fuel. A slightly rough idle is preferable to using too much fuel.

Not only should clean your fuel filters but also the filters inside you fuel tank attached to your petcock. To do this, flush the fuel tank. First drain fuel. (set aside) Remove petcock carefully. Use a tooth brush and solvent and gently scrub the filter and flush out Petcock. (Petcock and filter are one piece) Now add back in a bit of fuel to tank (petcock still out), slosh around and drain. Check what comes out if you can. Any crap in there?

This is basic on the road maintenance. I hope the mechanics you intrust your Emi to are good. Being mechanical, I'm nervous letting others fiddle.
But there are some amazing mechanics down there too. Continued good luck and safe travels!!


Your petcock may look different than this one ... this is IMS one. Note screen. The fuel tube goes UP into your tank and filter screens out crap. Should be clean.

Ushuaia is known as el fin del mundo (the end of the world). It is the largest city in this isolated part of the world. However, there is actually a smaller town that is 20km further south of Ushuaia called Lapataia. I traveled to Lapataia and sought out the actual end of the road.

This is the end of the road, the marker, Emi and me. Okay, it is official. I hit the end of the road.

The signs says, "Here ends route No. 3"

Here is the view at the end of the road.

And a little beyond.

Grifter, Thanks for the tips. I've adjusted the Fuel-Air-Pilot screw a bit. She seems to be running better now. I installed a fuel filter between my petcock and carb at the beginning of my trip. Seems to be clean, but I may change it soon. I'm carrying an extra.

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I thought that some of you might enjoy this adventure motorcycle comparison test: BMW R1200GS vs. KTM 990 Adventure vs. Yamaha Super Tenere. How the big boys stack up against each other side by side.

Antarctica...The South Pole...The White Continent...The Seventh Continent...Terra Australis.

While I was in Santiago, Chile I met some travelers that had just returned from Antarctica. They shared with me that in Ushuaia it was possible to book last minute trips to Antarctica at a pretty steep discount. It peaked my interest. I researched it a little bit and found it to be true. But, there was a catch. The arctic exploration season is short, generally lasting about 4 months from late November to early March. I was told the last voyages typically leave the first week of March. I would have to rush.

And so I rushed through Southern Chile riding at a pretty rapid pace. I traveled most days and only stopped for short excursions. I jumped on a ferry which helped me cover quite a bit of ground/sea in a short amount of time.

I arrived in Ushuaia on March 7th

I booked a voyage to Antarctica on March 8th

The ship set sail on March 9th

For the full story visit Antarctica

Congratulations on pulling off the Antarctic trip. I've heard about these last minute discounted opportunities before from other riders. Can you tell us what the trip actually cost you? How many days? Is it common to be able to do this? When you come on as a discounted fare, do you get the same cabin/service/meals as Full Fare passengers?

I did two tours at Palmer Station, Ant. in the late 70's. A Winter Over (13 months) and a Summer season (5 months) also worked in Ushuaia.
Friends ask me about these boat tours and expect me to know all about it. I don't, and don't have current info on this. I do know some tours are very pricey but if you can snag a last minute berth it's not too bad. True?

Did you do all this online and email? I believe there are now several companies touring the Antarctic peninsula in Summer. Any idea how many are in operation?

When I was there only two companies operated. Linblad Explorer and some German company whose name escapes me. Back then, the US program, USARP, allowed tourist boats to stop and visit Palmer station and visit local Penguin rookeries on nearby islands. No longer.
They found the visits a distraction to getting Science done and disruptive to studies being undertaken on near-by islands. So you won't be visiting Palmer.

I've been to all the Chilean and Argentine stations and spent time at several British stations further South and spent time at the Falklands and South Orkney Islands as well.

I got to fly around in Twin Otter Aircraft with both the Argentine Air Force and BAS (British Antarctic Survey). Also visited Russian and Polish stations (by boat) Both were well into fishing out the Krill ... which apparently they've done as there has been a huge die off of Adele Penguins in the last 10 years.

The Chilean and Argentines are doing no real science there and are using the area simply to "stake a claim" and exploit tourism or any other way to make the Antarctic profitable. They even bring pregnant women over to have children to help lay claim to the land. All BS of course.

As you know, Chile, Argentina and the UK claim overlapping areas. None are valid claims and all go against the Antarctic Treaty. The US disregards them all, as do most in the international community who do actual work in the Antarctic. I spent a year hanging out with the Argentines and Chileans so I know that was all true back then. Now? Who knows, maybe they are doing some actual science?

The 12 day excursion cost me $4500. There are 9 day excursions starting at about $3700. These prices are beween 40-50% percent off the standard fare. I had a standard cabin. There are a number of travel agencies booking the tours, but I believe that there are only a few companies actually providing the tours. How many, I don't know. I booked my trip through a local agent that worked through the hotel at which I was staying. One can walk up and down the main street and compare prices. I compared around a bit and all of the agencies seemed to offer the same prices for the same ships. I received all the same accommodation as the other passengers. Is it common? I met other independant travellers that booked last minute trips, but the majority of the passengers had planned their trips out many months or many years in advance. Once a ship fills up it fills up. Some people had to wait a week or more for an opening on a ship and thus had to pay for additional days of accommodation in Ushuaia, which can add up. I wanted to and was able to get on a ship right away. From what I gathered, the ship I was on does not have open space very often, only at the end of the season. Just lucky I suppose. I believe there are fewer openings during the start and peak of the season and more openings at the end of the season. The seas get sketchier at the end of the season. I hope this helps.

Great to meet you, Troy!

Hopefully we'll run into you further down the road as we both head North.

Leading us, Cathy and Andrew through Puerto Montt:

Thanks for the update.
Wow, things are very expensive!

I crossed the Drake passage nine times. Worst crossing was late March, sea state of 9. 60 ft swells. Our little boat never moved ... even at full power was only barely able to maintain position. The crossing took 9 days ... usually, 3 or 4 was normal.

The very best way to see the area is by air. I was lucky to fly with the Argentines and British. Mind blowing from the air. Someday I'll have to digitize all my slides from back then.

Safe travels

Cheers, thanks for the photo. I hope to see you down the road. Your blog looks great.

Sorry, I've been a way for awhile.


While in Patagonia, I decided to do a little fishing.

Click on the links for the full stories.

Parque Nacional Tierra Del Fuego

Rio Ewen

Rio Grande

Rio Maullin

Rio Malleo

From the town of Rio Grande I planned to ride across Tierra del Fuego through San Sebastian to a little town call Provenir from which I would take a 2 hour ferry to Puntas Arenas.

The journey started off on asphalt with moderate wind gust of around 20mph. By now any gusts under 50mph are manageable.

When I reached the pampa the wind dropped...but so did the rain.

From San Sebastion it was gravel and dirt and rain. Luckily it was not cold, so I didn't mind it so much. Actually I kind of enjoyed it. There was absolutely no traffic on the road. Except for a patagonia fox, a few guanacos and some nandus. I tried to stop and take photos, but those critters are fast.

Sometimes when I'm riding in these remote areas with no traffic coming or going I get a little nervous. What if I go down? What if I get lost?

But for some reason today all of those negative thoughts did not occupy my mind. I was open to whatever lay ahead. The total ride should have taken about 4 hours. But the rain, animals and some photo taking slowed me down.

As I neared Provenir I checked my watch... 1:55pm. Uh oh... the ferry was leaving at 2:00pm.

I needed to push. I sped through town.

Just as I was pulling up to the ferry loading area...the ferry was raising it's gate and pulling out to sea.

I had missed it by about 2 minutes. Shucks!

My options were not good. The ferry departed once a day. The next ferry would be the next day. There was an alternative route in which I could travel east and north, take a 15 minute ferry, then west and south, basically making a loop around the Strait of Magellan and a bay. The route would take about 5-6 hours.

I was kicking myself for stopping to take photos of those guanacos. I didn't even get a good shot before they ran off.

Not wanting to stay in Provenir and waste daylight I decide to take the alternative route.

I asked for directions from two different people. It's my way of confirming directions. Each person warned me that the first stretch is ripio (gravel). I asked how bad it was. All I got back in response was a facial gesture that I was not entirely sure how to interpret. Ripio can be fun to ride in if it is compacted, but dreadful to ride in if it is loose.

I filled up with gas, then headed off.

The first few miles it was all asphalt. And then came the ripio. I slowed down. At first the road was primarily hard pack dirt with small pieces of gravel the size of peas. Easy to ride on.

Then I came across some larger gravel the size of olives. Still easy to ride on, but the larger pieces of gravel allow the tire to slide around a bit more.

Then came grooves of hard packed dirt with banks of loose gravel. It's fine to ride in the grooves, but to move over one of the banks or to react in an emergency could be tricky.

I relaxed and rode on. Every once in a while I'd come across a grapefruit sized rock in the middle of my groove that I would have to avoid. OK, hop the bank, no problem. But honestly, I was kind of in the zone.
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The weather had cleared and the wind was moderate. I was riding and standing and weaving between the obstacles like it was second nature. I was enjoying this.

After about 2:30 hours of pure riding bliss I came upon the Strait of Magellan where I would catch a 15 minute ferry to the other side of the bay. This ferry was still waiting for me.

Since this was a short crossing the ferry crew did not even strap down Emi. I was kind of surprised. I was wondering if they were just playing games with the foreigner, but no, no one came to strap down Emi.



While we were in transit I got off Emi to take this picture. As we crested a wave Emi was rocked and almost fell over. I decided that I should sit on her to hold her steady for the remainder of the crossing.

After crossing the Straight of Magellan I headed west and south along the bay.

I came to an intersection. Staring at me from across the road and up on a plateau was this guanaco. It was all by itself... just standing there... staring at me... after about 2 minutes it left... then I left.

The road was asphalt, but the wind really started to pick up. I leaned into the wind to keep my bike straight. Also, I employed the technique of sticking leg out to act as a sail to capture the wind...I call it the chicken wing technique. It was a pretty uncomfortable ride for 3 hours.

What started out as a nice ride in the dirt during the morning turned into a brutal ride against the wind.


I did see some more guanacos.

And some nandus.

I arrived in Punta Arenas at about 8pm. It was already dark. I found a hostel and found the bed. It had been a long day, but I reached my destination. I was happy.

For the full story visit A Slight Detour