I would research the 6V comment further. Pretty sure they are all 12V. My 91 is 12V. Sure, they upgraded the charging system over the years. A benny for the 89 is that it has both electric and kick start. Good luck in your search!
As soon as I sell my DR350 im going to be looking for one of these. Looks like the perfect bike for what I want to do. Mostly trail riding Im not into going fast or hitting jumps. I just want to criuse through the wood quitley. What speed will a tw200 hold on the highway and how many gears?
They are all 12 volt. The 2001 and newer got better charging systems and a front disk brake. The rear shock was upgraded to a stronger design around 2001 as well. Pre 2001 also gets you both an electric start and a kick start. Personally I like having the kick start, but it wouldn't be that hard to push start one if needed. The bikes have been virtually unchanged since 1987 though. I have heard to avoid the 87's because they had some problems with the electrical system. An 89 for $800 sounds like a great deal to me. I own a 95, I have ridden an 89 and a 2011. They are all great bikes, enjoy!
A few well placed screws and you too can be in the ice capades with your T-dub. Natedog was lapping some much more powerful bikes with this bad boy last year.
"anybody know the distance between the front of the blinker tube to the center of the triple tree bolt ? " I measure 2.5 inches, with tape held on top of the blinker stalk, under the tree bolt. The direct distance would be measured at an angle, since they are not on the same plane. What ya cookin?
Hi folks, Got me an ugly as sin 94 today. I have some Qs for the old timers. I see the general setting is 2-21/2 turns out on air screw, shim under needle and 130~132 mains for the newer bikes. Anyone have any settings for the older slide carbs? Mine runs great but if there is an easy 0.5hp, I want it! How do you compress the rear shock spring to get the U washer out to put on a lower groove? Do Tws suffer from bogging in water crossings? Is a T mod needed on TWs? Besides the much taller ATV shock, are there other shocks that will stiffen the rear a bit w/out raising it more than 1~2 inches? Can the electrical system support heated grips or vest or both? Thanks, Don
I am hopefully picking up a 2009 T-dub tomorrow with a whopping 64 miles! I've been waiting almost three years now for one of these to pop up. Used ones are just not available here in Interior Alaska. I'm looking forward to doing quite a bit of exploring of the surrounding area this summer, and maybe even getting some snow and ice riding in before break-up!
Guys I have 3 simple questions for a buddy of mine that just picked up a brand new TW200. He's not much of an internet guy so I told him I'd check. #1 - I know before I ask just with my experience on other thumpers, a pipe is a waste of money on a TW isn't it? gains aren't worth the money spent and fuel economy lost right? #2 - What is "safe" motorwise cruising speed on these bikes? Can he go 60 indicated all day long an be fine? He used to be my long distance riding partner and although we know his super slab time needs to be limited on this bike we'd still like to know what we can get away with. #3 - Although he's in the process of loosing it, at the moment he's a big guy, somewhere in the upper 200's probably. Is a sproket change a viable option? We live in the mtns of NC and sometimes he has to gear down pretty good just to maintain 30-35 on some back roads, he said sometimes he's dropping into second to try and maintain momentum. This probably means a sproket change is not advisable to get a more comfortable top end cruising speed as referred to in question #2? Thanks in advance!
I'll throw in my thoughts. Right. It's weak and it's gonna stay that way. New TWs come from the factory very lean so there is benefit to be had from examining the idle mixture screw setting and main jet. Do some research. Mine shows "redline" at 55. I and others will run 60mph for long periods with no apparently problems. I don't go higher -- some do. Gearing can help a little, but... It seems like plenty of big dudes ride the TW -- seems fine. I would agree w/ your assessment on the sprocket change. Keep in mind that unlike many bikes the front one is more of a pain to change than the rear so most folks get gearing adjustments by changing the rear sprocket. My opinion overall: The TW is what is. It's going to be easier to convince oneself that it is great than to try and make it faster. If your friend ends up not liking it then there are always lots of people willing to buy them!
What he said... I'm in the 230 range and the stock gearing is just fine. Row the gearbox, you're not goting to kill it and gearing it down isn't going to make it go faster (well, possibly a LITTE if you hit the sweet spot). And I agree that 60 is OK but I find 55 a whole lot more comfortable. I have had my stock gearing up to over 65 mph (on the GPS, not the speedo) and it doesn't seem to do much to hurt it but it does wind the piss out of it. Like I said, be happy at 55 and the bike will be happy too. Gerg
I want to echo what the others are saying. I am also 230 lbs, 6'0" and ride the bike at around 60 without problems. I've taken it up to 70 but all the conditions were perfect (mines a 2010 completely stock). I think that heavier guys riding this bike in the mountains won't see any benefit changing the gearing to get a higher top speed. By doing this you sacrifice much needed grunt to power up hills. This bike is what it is. In stock form it is pretty close to as good as you're gonna get it without dumping a lot of money into it or losing reliability. I like to look at mine as a street legal four wheeler, minus two wheels. It's near impossible to fall over and the bike can go more places than your skinny tire types. But it won't keep up on the highway. That shouldn't matter though, if your rides take longer, that means more time on the bike