I agree that would fix any possible clearance issues. BUT there is no way to do that! The masterlink is too long and the chain won't give enough to to get it behind the chain and in. No recess is deep enough. Just doesn't work! From behind works fine on the single row chain but not on the duplex.
That's interesting. I took a clip out of a /6 motor on my bench it's the fishtail type and it measures .941" I also measured a new two clip link out of a Iwis chain on the shelf and it measures .973. So there is some varience. A small amount may be our measuring and calipers though.
That's exactly what I was trying to say in the earlier posts. The only option is to pull the engine sprocket and cam. That camchain from Motobins is exactly the same as the one supplied by BMW.
I'm dusting down my soapbox as we speak... I hope somebody has a solution for you otherwise you're going to have to take the gearbox and clutch out.
Rob, Somewhere there is a disconnect in what we are talking about. This chain was developed so you wouldn't have to do what you are saying. In this case they were concerned over clearance. My opinion is there isn't a concern, as thousands have used this chain and not had a issue. If someone has had a issue with clearance using the Iwis chain duplex chain and putting it in as instructed with the clips on the rear I haven't heard of it yet.
JT, My comments in post 46 are all tongue-in-cheek. But! I would have had a similar issues with the clearance on duplex cam chains fitting the split link in from the front, that's why I choose to pull the sprockets. I suspect that r2adv will have a little more clearance once the centre plates fitted in his link but not much. I've a spare camchain sitting here. 0.966 across the split link and the rollers are split
No need to be nervous. I've done two chains like this one with the master link, and things turned out just fine both times. As been said, the center plate needs to be in place between the rows of the chain. That will take care of the clearance issue that you see in your pic. Putting the master link clip on is no picnic, but you can do it. Relax.
As long as we're talking Timing Chains... Next Summer I need to replace the timing chain and crank sprocket on my /5. Can't find my old 3-jaw puller, so I'll need to get another one. As I recall, I'll need a 3-jaw puller, maybe 5-6" reach and I'll need to fabricate a "crankshaft nose protector piece" for the puller screw to bear against. Do any brands of pullers work better than others? TIA,
I was told they were stamping marks but looking close they may well be splits from a formed roller. A older masterlink chain I have shows neither. I haven't heard of failures so must be good?
I haven't saved any old chains to know for sure but that looks new to me as well. I hope it holds up. I do know for sure from experience that not all chains hold up the same. There are some junk chains out there!
I looked at the photos of that chain a while ago and it didn't look right to me but rather than spouting off, I decided to keep my mouth shut but... That chain will probably work just fine but I only use real BMW timing chains myself. Go ahead with you installation and get on with your wrenching.
I'm not at all concerned with the chain. It's the Iwis chain that BMW dealers, Hucky's, Siebenrock and the list goes on sells. It's used by Mercedes too, so I just don't think it is or will be an issue.
I am not saying that chain is an issue. That I do not know. I do know for sure that just because a product is made by the same manufacturer that BMW buys their parts from does not mean that it is the same product BMW sells. I have seen that phenomenon play out time after time over the years. I first learned that lesson a long time ago thanks to Capital Cycle.
I owe my career with BMW Motorcycles to CRAPital Cycles. I had to return an entire order to them back in 1995 due to every single part being either incorrect, or just such garbage that I couldn't or wouldn't install them on my bike. I had just moved to the DC area a fewyears earlier( for a 10 year self imposed EXILE ) and a new acquaintance told me about Bobs BMW being just a few miles away, I went, I bought, I was hired. Easy Peasey.
I have noticed that not all crank sprockets come off the same. I have an OTC 3 jaw that I use. Some sprockets have needed heating and others haven't. The sprockets that came off withouit heat would have probably come off with a 2 jaw puller. So I guess you need to ask yourself, do you feel lucky? Seriously though, any puller with at least a 1/2"-12mm (bigger is better) screw will probably work. It would be a good idea to have some kind of torch around, in case it is stubborn.
Good, I think any quality 3-jaw puller will work. I'm doing the top end on the bike next Summer and while the heads & jugs are off at the shop I'll do the timing chain and sprocket. I did the chain about 10 years ago, but "on a budget" and the sprocket looked "OK"at the time.
