1190 adv starting problem

Hi all.
About a week now,my 1190 has a starting issue.
When it is cold,the starter runs normally and the bike starts after 2-3 revs as it starts since the first day i bought it.
But when it is warm,after a couple of km's,when i push the button it turns just for a half rev and then it stops,and i need to release the button and push it again in order to start the engine.
The bike was bought in May 2013,and has 10.000 kms on it.
There was no recall for my battery cables,and it seems to start difficultly since the first day.
The battery is in very good condition,and the multimeter with the ignition off shows 12,74 volts,so i don't think it is a battery matter...

I would load test the battery, even if it's showing 12+ volts. See what the voltage drop is while you're pushing the start button? I'd also check all the connections and clean them up.

I had to replace my battery....9k miles. I had a dead cell

Hmmm....I will check the voltage of the battery when i push the starter button and post here...

I checked the voltage of the battery and the results are:

Battery voltage with ignition off:12,7 volts
battery voltage with ignition on:12,23 volts
battery voltage during engine start:10,7 volts
Battery voltage at second startup:10,3 volts

In what condition is my battery...?

How long did you engage the starter the first time and was it still turning ( cranking) the engine over at a normal rate? Same with the second attempt? Usually a good battery will stay above 10.5 for 15 seconds or so, although I normally wouldn't crank the engine that long (starter gets too hot).

Personally, I would probably install a known good battery, or just buy a new one (but IDK if that's an option for you).

edit - what time is it in Greece ?

This is how my airbox issue presented itself.

The 1190 battery is weak, no doubt, but you should eliminate the expensive possibility of a dirty intake with worn valves.

Seriously.

I engaged the starter for about 2 seconds,until the engine started.It is the usual start for my bike since i bought it.The second attempt was the same as the first.Same time to start the engine,same strength the starter.
Although my bike is a 13 model there is no battery cable recall for me until now...
Is there an official recall for ALL models or for some specific VINs?
It is 15:00 here in Greece,and the temperature is about 40 celcius today...

My dusted engine also wouldn't start when cold as there was not enough compression with the worn valves.

Easy enough to check the airbox for some peace of mind.

I checked it about a month ago,and apart from a small amount of oil which came here after a couple of wheelies,there was no dust...

Mine doesn't start SOMETIMES only when it is HOT.
And if i release the button and press it again it always starts...

I don't think you'll find out anything by loading the battery for only 2 seconds or so. Go ride it and get it hot, isn't that when you're having problems? Come home and shut it down, let it sit for 15-20 minutes so everything is heat soaked. Then try the "load test." My understanding is that when your bike is hot, the starter won't crank the engine fast enough / long enough to start the engine. If it cranks normally and the engine doesn't start, that's a different problem, not battery.

37.8 C yesterday, I've been working out side on tractors all morning and it's gotta be that hot or hotter today, and it's only noon.

Now I'm confused, when you're having problems is the starter turning the engine over and the engine just won't fire, or does the starter NOT turn the engine over?

The starter does not turn the engine...

Then I'd go get it hot and try to replicate the problem, then see what happens to battery voltage when you engage the starter. If your battery is showing 12+ volts and it doesn't change when you hit the starter and the starter doesn't spin then the problem sounds like it is "before" the battery. Wire, connection, ignition switch, relay, etc. If you hit the starter and the starter begins to spin and then craps out, and the voltage drops down under 10 volts, I would be suspicious of a battery problem.

Be sure to let it sit for 20 minutes or so after getting it hot before you attempt to start it and check voltage. And don't forget your mittens, we can't have you getting frost bite...

there's another new inmate also from Greece with an 1190 that's been keeping on top of 1190 starting issues. it'd be worth tracking him down. even if your bike doesn't fall within serial numbers for recall, I'd take a closer look at my cables anyways. especially since you've had problems since day one.

forget about using your digital gauge as reliable until you've checked against a known to correct meter. when trouble shooting electric gremlins, a few tenth of a volt could make a big difference.

your problems could be caused by wiring/switch/relay, cabling and/or battery. in other words there's a butt load of possible causes that can cause similar symptoms. the dealer should be chasing this down, not you.

here's instructions on how to test your battery ... you should take AGM in for a proper load test. check your charging voltage at idle and 3k rpm and post back. use a known to be correct meter please ...

here's instruction on how to test your meter

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How to test an AGM and LiFePO4 Battery
How to test an AGM Battery

1. remove AGM from bike and/or charge in place with cables removed.

2. use a normal size PB charger without desulfate mode, then charge to full. (don't use battery tender which can take several days to charge to full). don't exceed 14.8v for AGM

3. allow AGM to rest overnight after full charge. then measure resting voltage.

4. resting voltage should be 12.6v to 12.8v fully charged. if say your AGM resting measures 12.8v, then starts your bike strong for load test. odds are your AGM is good.

note there's variation for resting full charge voltage. some AGM could read slightly higher than 12.8v resting.

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How to test a LiFePO4 battery (draft version subjective to revision)

1. remove LiFePO4 from bike and/or charge in place with cables removed.

2. use a normal size PB charger without desulfate mode, then charge to full. (don't use battery tender which can take several days to charge to full). don't exceed 14.6v for LiFePO4. ALL PB battery chargers without desulfate mode will charge ALL 12v LiFePO4 batteries. LiFePO4 likes .5C during bulk charge phase. don't leave std PB charger attached to LiFePO4 after full charge (14.6v) is reached. (C = AH)

3. allow LiFePO4 to rest overnight after full charge. then measure resting voltage.

4. resting voltage should be 14.25v range fully charged for batteries without BMS. with BMS voltage will typically be 13.85v range resting.

if say your LiFePO4 resting measures at least 13.3v (90%) or higher, then starts your bike strong for load test. odds are your LiFePO4 is good.

note there's variation for resting full charge voltage depending on what type BMS is installed if any. 13.3v (90%) is the desired resting voltage before starting motorcycle

I ve had an issue with mine that wouldnt start. At first i thought it was the battery, but it turns out that the problem was the relay. When bypassed it worked fine (jump started it).

It happened a few times and with a little investigation i found out that its the standard relay from the lc640.

What i think happens is that the relay has arced once to many times and failes.

If it happens again I will change it.

The issue is the starter motor itself nothing else. The 1290 Super Duke starter fixes the issue. I had one fitted today and it starts faster than any bike I've ever had.

Is it so different than the stcok 1190 one? Actually even with a brand new battery the stock unit seems rather weak cranking... on ice cold days in the rain hope it does not fail crank...

Very different in terms of cranking. It starts very fast and you can hear the difference in the aggression of the starter motor. The 1290 unit is a little bigger but still fits. However, there is also a software update at the same time for the ECU so you need a KTM dealer to do this work.