You're kidding....right?? No poly, use an exterior deck sealer/oil, I have some olympic semi transparent. Canyon brown and redwood. Thompsons clear comes to mind. will you be using them as cutting boards??? Linseed oil, mineral oil FDA approved......but no polyurethane of any kind. You need something you can continue to apply and absorb.
Yeah I figured you'd have something to say about it Thanks. How much do I need for these two boards? Will any of those make them a bit darker? I'm sure they'll get used for all sortsa stuff. The main use is to hold the firewood though. I cracked a bin hauling it on a trip in the Fall. This is like waiting for Christmas. I'm supposed to have the bike at the shop at 10 in the morning.
for both? a half a pint, maybe.. but at least with linseed oil, (a great choice, imo) you can re-apply anytime. Actually you'll probably need to re-apply once a year at least. It will darken it slightly, but it will make it look richer, and more wonderful first.
+1. Widely available and cheaper than mineral. Shit, I'm surprised you didn't rub used motor oil on them. Do both sides
Glad you mentioned a shock-sock... Dan Kyle Racing (among others) sell 'em. A small piece of advice... it is much, much cheaper to have a slightly worn Ohlins rebuilt than one that has been hammered for a long time... Ohlins recommends rebuilds every 10-15K or something for streetbikes. I had an Ohlins that looked pretty well used and found out it was so worn buying a new one ran about $50 more than the rebuild due to it being run so far beyond the scheduled service... Anyway, next winter I am sending mine to Dan Kyle...
And the end grain, that is the part that will wick up the most liquid. and since it's exposed on the bike should be protected. Show pixkchurs when you finish them, Whats the story with all the brass hardware? I might have missed it, but are you going for some post apocalyptic meets steam punk funk? cause if you are, it's kind of working.
Something like that. I wasn't willing to lose anything functionally for a 'look' though. I didn't want to add weight or use weaker brass hardware. Swapping washers and fabbing a few things out of brass and copper, that I needed to make anyways, didn't violate the function over fashion rule for me. Also, it was cheap! I'm on one of my sailboat-dreaming kicks again. That's why marine parts like the mast steps and hatch latches are popping up. I ordered some cleats, deck hardware for mooring up a ship, to mount on the outside of the boxes as tie-downs. Damn I want a boat. Of course, that'd all be really great and functional if the bike, you know, functioned. I actually had to go DOWN jet sizes for the carbs even though they were jetted for a 350 2-stroke. The idle jet was 48 and spitting gasoline out the exhaust. The lowest the mechanic had was a 40. It'll run on it but it won't idle. I'm ordering jets now. The exhaust's obviously a lot louder than stock but it's not nearly as bad as I expected. I think the boxes help to keep it quiet. The exhaust is pouring into a cavity created by the two boxes and the underside of the fender. Maybe that acts as a sorta muffler? I dislocated my shoulder a few weeks ago climbing. It was feeling better and I was doing my physical therapy exercises until yesterday. While pushing the bike I slipped and all 500 pounds of the bike wrenched my shoulder and pulled me to the ground. I spent some quality time rolling around on the ground in the fetal position. My arm's rurnt. I don't know if I could ride a bike anyways. Well, I guess that's bullshit...if this bike ran I'd be on it But I wouldn't be making any cross-state motoclimbingcamping trips.
I'm sold. I'll get some linseed oil after I spend the next 12 hours in my hammock half-drunk, popping Ibuprofen, reading a book. I could sure use more wonderful right now That shock rebuild's gonna have to wait for me too, Solo. I've spent way too much on this already. I'm already putting parts together for the next rebuild. I really think I can run those races with Jason and Jenna next year. I've got an aluminum r1100s tank that weighs 8 pounds(versus 19 withOUT the tankbags on the HPN) for $90 shipped. I've also got a new seat and subframe to build to shed all this crap I just created. There's no reason to haul all the touring gear at a rallye. Which, again, would be great IF THE DAMN THING RAN *edit: You know how long this bike's been down? So long that I felt the need to add that smiley to my 'favorite smileys' list. I think I'm going to be using it a lot in the near future
Darn. If only you had a good old reliable Honda 350 in the shop as a backup bike. No, wait. There it is. p.s. +1 on the linseed oil. And I like your rallye bike ideas. Less weight means you can be going faster when you crash.
That's not the one I got from Matt. I fixed it up and sold it to pay for this one since it had a disk. I did a lot of work to it but it's got a few issues that I'm not dealing with until MY bike runs. The bike runs!.....kinda. It fires up alright but it wants to die on me I putted around the yard a bit but my shoulder's all jacked up. It blew a lot of dark smoke out at first. I did the 'rev it up and kill it' thing a few times and the amount of smoke went down a LOT. It's still super rich and I think that's the rest of the smoke. The smoke reeks of gas. Anyways, I'm going to take a crack at tuning this myself. I bought an air fuel gauge and I'm going to mount it permanently on the handlebar. How cool will that be!? http://www.amazon.com/Innovate-Motorsports-3844-Complete-All-In-One/dp/B004MDT8MW Has anyone ever used one of these? I have to weld the mount for it into the exhaust and I need to hit both pipes so I don't have a lot of choice on where to put it.
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?...19933045298.2135492.1488717317&type=3&theater Brad I'm sure you already have the AF meter, but check this link out for a smaller one. I'll see if I can find where I bought it and send you more info. Koso Mini meter..http://www.koso.com.tw/products-detail.php?id=314&lang=en I think I bought it on Ebay at a decent price. I'm kind of guessing that use it to tune it then you may want to take it off as there are times it will run lean or rich depending on throttle and load.
How has it worked out for you? I didn't even know these existed until that mechanic told me about them. I still need to get jets but at $95 I should be able to buy a box of keihin jets and still come out cheaper....but it means it'll take more time. Luckily I dislocated my shoulder and GA's hot as blue Hell right now. I don't want to leave the air conditioning anyways. Man I really stepped in it this time. This is going to be a job. I oughta know these carbs well by the time I get done though.
the A/F meter is for the TR6 (car) I'm working on, motor is still at the machine shop, shouldn't be much longer. But what I gather is it's something you will use initially for tuning, but it will drive you nuts hoping it stay stoichiometric at all times..which it won't. I think you could get pretty close without it, but then again you have NO idea what's really happening as you've got no base line for the carbs. I have a K&N one (narrow band) which I'd sell but it just has an LED bar of 7 lights.
The narrow band isn't going to work for me. Like you said, I'm waaaaay off. As in, Gasoline shooting out the muffler off.
Brad you are running a tad rich....now you can burn those cats instead of taking them for walks.. <iframe src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/bbeW268Z3nQ" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" width="420"></iframe>
The A/F gauge came in! <iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/3cShYbLkhBc" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> Holy '80s hair-do, Batman! I can't believe GROWN-ASSED MEN did this I got the gauge on Amazon for $95 shipped. Man I love how cheap electronics are getting. This was an open-box-deal with Amazon's guarantee. None of the packages were opened inside and I ran the wires to a battery and it turned on. Seems good! It came with both the black and the silver bezels, a black and a white face plate. It also came with one bung which I didn't expect. They're $9 each. It has a connector to run it to some software, a few acessorry wires built into the gauge for...something idunno. Something apparently goes in and something else comes out I'll make a new dash for it some time next week. Man that's gonna be a fun project. MMMmmmm....brass I welded the bung on the coldest setting since I've blown through this pipe before. I think it has as much to do with angle as heat though. If I aim straight at the pipe it'll blow through even on low. I seem to need to catch it at a tangent to hit more metal. I don't need it to be that strong so even though it's a little cold I think it'll be fine. The crossover was trashed on these headers so I used a chunk from Len's bent r65 header. It was too big and I couldn't get it to seal with clamps so I welded it. I tacked it in place, on the bike, but it was still a little too narrow for the crossover. It has to be perfect if I'm going to get a good seal. An old-timer a few blocks over died last year. I never knew him, I just went through his stuff when my Dad told me about the yard sale. One day somebody'll be picking over my shop.....I'ma lay traps Anyways, I got these awesome clamps for $2. I took home a truck load of stuff from this guy's house for next to nothing. I dialed the crossover in until it slid in easily. This crossover is SOOOOOOOO much easier to take off than that stock pipe. What the Hell were those Germans thinking?! I ordered a few extra bungs. If anybody in Atlanta that had Mikunis on an airhead <cough cough> wanted to trade me a 6 pack for one, I could be talked in to welding it for pizza I can pull the gauge off the bike in no time and let you live with it for a while to tune your carbs. I also found a liiiitle leak in the crossover. I put this collar on there because I blew through a spot and couldn't fill it in. Here's on advantage of running rich. This is the only place I could mount the sensor. Further forward and I'd only hit one pipe, further back and I'd run into the junction with the muffler. I don't want to install the sensor on the muffler because I hope to swap it out along with the new sub-frame. I don't want to have another thing to uninstall when I swap them back and forth. I routed the cable under the swingarm. I'll weld a plate across the back some time to keep mud from hitting it. My main concern is that the sensor will get bent when I go across a log and the whole thing gets mashed upwards. It's hard to see in this pic, but the sensor will get pushed into part of the frame if that happens. Hmmm....I got an idear..... I'm stuck for now. I had to add a plate to the exhaust clamps because they were bottoming out and not sealing. I dismantled them to clean out the copper plates....and I lost 'em I've looked everywhere and I can't find 'em. I think it's time to go to sleep. I've got to spend tomorrow on campus studying Calculus. Last week was the first week of class. This Wednesday is our first test Aaaargh summer semesters.
My understanding is that the bung hole is the same size / thread pitch as an oil drain plug. I'd just put one of those in if you are worrried about the sensor getting wiped out on the trail.