XR650R electricity

According to what I have read and seen that should work, but I have not used a frame ground on the dc side myself because the ignition uses a frame ground and I don't what to intermix things I don't understand.

It seems like it is shown the same in the service manual. If you haven't noticed, they use generic schematics that show a battery and turn signal on a dc circuit and an ac light all running off the same stator coil. If I am reading it right.

I know there is at least one other person out there who has had this same experience. So I am posting this for information purposes, but also to see how others have handled it.

I am running two 100w coils.

coil 1 is powering a 100w halogen and a tail light, stock reg.

coil 2 is feeding a 250w tymphanium r/r (ricky stator's) to create a dc circuit to power led turn/brake and 55w HID. I had used 150w trailtechs in the past and they died.

It works great as long as I keep a load on the DC side.

The problem I have is this:

The 25ow r/r requires a battery. If no battery is present the measurements are wacked; it will show 12-14v ac steady and 10.5v dc, dropping to about 8v with increased rpm on the dc outputs.
With a battery present it shows trace ac voltages with a solid 12-14v dc.
With a capacitor instead of a battery it will charge to over 17v dc.


I built my own r/r using a seperate reg and full wave rectifier with the same results.

Aside from causing a great deal of mental anguish over the physics of it all, it works fine as long as there is a battery in the circuit and a load.

However, using LiFe batteries instead of Pb or NiCd, I get similar problems as with a capacitor in that they basically are being over charged if there is no loads on the system (daytime running, no HID light). This will eventually cause a cell to die after long periods of high revs.

My plan now is put a load on the dc circuit when the HID is not running. For now it will be just a resistor using up 10-15w, but I plan to put that load to use, maybe with a fan or disco lights.


BTW, the reason I will not run a dc only system is because my ac has been the only one to never fail.

Looks to me like you got the DC+ feeding the blinkers twice - once directly and the other thru the multi-switch.

I don't think you're going to have much luck with that system but I guess it's worth a shot. By hanging 2 systems off the stator you are doing some wierd stuff with the stator's output. For one thing you've effectively reduced the charging systems resistance by a large amount (probably 1/2) which could easily double the current. Is there a compelling reason to set it up that way? The current issue I described could decide to cause problems when you least expect it if it doesn't blow out a reg right off the bat. Anotherwords it might seem to be fine and eventually burn out a componet while you're out riding it. The manufacturers have come up with many different configurations but I've yet to see one configured that way. That design effectively takes what was a very simple sytem and makes it much more complex plus adds another failure point and increases the heat and load on all the componets. An AC/DC system does the exact same thing but with 2 seperate systems. Is this because you have a rewound stator with one output?

You could easily wire that HL into the DC system and avoid the potential for other problems also setup that way it's not adding any reliability to the system.

ya i messed up on the rear blinker setup. I guess i had the idea in my head to get the BD or RS dual output stator and run both AC and DC. then i decided i could accomplish a high output stator and save myself $150. so i drew up that diagram still utilizing the AC and DC, not sure why i could not do a full DC system. and that is probably what will happen. XRsnaggle or some guy with a user name like that seemed like he had the setup like i drew, but for some reason he fried it when changed from 100W HL to 50W HL, ?? IDK, no reason i can't do full DC, not sure why i wanted to incorporate AC. i've just been going through my upgrades list trying to get all things figured out. i rewound the stator two years ago, but i added the new windings in series with the old windings, and did not fill up all poles for some reason, so when i redo it, i want to do it right.

Chris, can you explain the reduction in charging resistance? I don't quite understand that, I thought that was purely a product of the battery's internal resistance?

The only reason I thought it would work, while not being ideal, is that the xrr service manual shows some schematics that are similar; dc and ac system from the same coil. Or so I thought, looking at again there are two coils. However, these wiring diagrams are obviously not of an xrr so who knows what the hell thats all about?

I think in theory you could have an ac light, and still rectify it for a dc system. However, there wouldn't be a need for both ac reg and a reg/rectifier, because only one of the regs is going to be doing its job.

It would be simpler to just go all dc.

The battery is the source, the rectifier is the load (resistance). Anytime you add resistance in parallel (like the second regulator) it lowers total resistance increasing current. This explains it with a calculator and shows the formula. Type in a few values into R1 & R2 and you'll see the loss of overall resistance, plug that new value into ohms law and you'll see the increase in circuit current I'm describing, it could easily double the current, not good!

I'm not telling the OP not to do it and I might be missing something here but in my expierence why add the complexity and the overhead associated with an extra reg? We want our systems to be as simple as can be and as robust as we can make them. Each componet will add some loss of output to the system by virtue of it's resistance in that circuit. Almost all headlight bulbs that run on AC will run on DC. The final product will end up being more complex, run hotter and have more potential for failure. I seriously doubt the headlight will be any brighter if it does work at all, it's hanging off a circuit in a very inefficient way.

I've worked on my share of MC electrical systems as well as plenty of other electric/electronic sircuits and have yet to see a system that is configured for 2 different voltage types off the same output in this manner. The closest thing I can think of is when they pull more than one tap off a source like a transformer or set of windings. In that situation, the way the windings are configured provides circuit isolation. Doesn't mean the OPs method isn't out there but typically at a min. there is some circuitry or design feature that minimizes ones influence on the other.

Mitch, no prob running a single output all DC (or AC) or dual (AC/DC) there's pro's & con's to both. If you are doing your own stator, the single output is a little easier, no reason why you can't run a full DC setup off it. Like I mentioned above, shoot for simple, last thing you want to do is troubleshoot a complex system out on the trail somewhere. There's a few designs in this thread that are pretty robust, you'll notice they are very similar to some of the OEM systems. They are proven designs that hold up provided the wiring is done right. Often folks will try to reinvent the wheel, nothing wrong with that if the original wheel doesn't work for you, just be prepared to spend some $$ and sweat going down that road.

I'm going to give these guys a shot at making a battery pack for me. I'm going to use the 1100 mah nicads, which should be a bit of a upgrade from the 700 mah nicads that BD sells.

They also let you choose your cable gauge.

http://www.robotcombat.com/products/battery_build_main.html

Just got my fan install going on and need some help with electrical connection.

Where/how to conect on/off switch for fan?

what is the device on the lower triple clamp says MBN on it? i'm guessing you included it for a reason. Does your bike have DC power? battery? capacitor?

you can draw prw from the green an black wire nxt to the pink 1 in the pic shown ..not the green and black going to the capacitor

that is a reg/rec to run your blinkers and horn .. you have the EU specbike with the headlights and blinkers and horn for street rego i take it ...same as my bike

Ok, by charging current I thought you meant the current going into the battery.

I have verying levels of education and experience too, and there have been some things occur with my electrical that I just cannot explain, an so I have a tendency to keep everything seperate, nothing shares anything.

I noticed during my rewire recently that the ac feeding the headlight had an uncrimped butt connector on one leg. No issues over three years of use. There are definite benefits to ac.

Hi,

the EU model has DC power rectifier/capacitor...no battery.

Tnks guys

I was wondering if anyone has coughed up the dough for one of the baja designs squadron and put it on there pig? . I have a stock stator and am currently running the stock headlight with led blinkers and an led brake running light. And I dont plan on running any other extras in the future. Im really interested in the squadron cause my thing is that it supposedly only uses 44 watts and I wont have to get the upgraded stator. Just get a reg/rec from baja designs, which I have one laying around the garage somewhere. I called up BD and they said that the squadron wont run on the stock AC current and thats why I need the reg/rec to convert it to DC? Then by having a DC setup would I have to run a battery too? Thanks to anyone trying to help a retard when it comes to electricity.

I need some help here too.....just fried my Squadron!!!!
Bike came to me with a BD dual sport kit and I assumed it would be a plug and play but no such luck.
The good news is the light can be shipped back and repaired for $75 but noe I need to fix the issue and get D/C to the headlight.
How do I do this on my XR?????
I can follow directions and turn wrenches pretty well but electricity on a bike is another story.

Thanks for any help if you have it.

Bummer about the headlight! Is the bike treating you well aside from that?

Does someone have the ED/DK XR 650R wiring diagram with go quality?
Cheers