Triumph Tiger 800

[Mercury264]

Originally Posted by dwoodward

Not yet- but with the Happy Trail racks having the left one so far out, there's room for an ammo can in there. Details and pics when I get the round tuit to actually get the welding done.

Look forward to it.

[blacktiger]

Originally Posted by cug

I have them on my Roadie at this time. Installed them on Tuesday to find out whether a different handlebar position will cure my shoulder issues on longer rides. It's slightly tight with the cables but works fine overall.

An install note:

1) Take off handlebar.
2) Put risers in
3) Tighten 10mm bolts so that they are installed flush
4) Tighten and torque 8mm (I did that through the opening of the risers) to 26NM
5) Now torque 10mm bolts to 35NM

If you do it the other way around you torque the "open slot" of the clamp to 35NM and that one is supposed to have only 26NM. So, be careful about the order when you install them.

My instinct is that you're doing #3 & 4 the wrong way round. It's designed that the 10mm bolt side is seated and the only "slot" is on the 8mm bolt side. Not every handlebar clamp is designed this way as some require a gap both sides but these don't. The 10mm bolt are what clamps the whole thing to the top yoke. So, you should tighten the 10mm bolts fully and then the 8mm. The 8mm bolts just clamps the handlebars.
The Service Manual backs me up on page 13.7.
Doing it your way could leave the risers loose on the yoke. Although you're unlikely to notice it, it could lead to fretting in the long term.

[Top Gun]

I've got the 2" Rox risers on my 800 Road Tiger. I love them. No cable issues at all.

[outagas]

Thanks for the info, mine is a 800 roadie (bloody fantastic bit of kit).

the Anakees3 sounds good, the last new tyre I bought was a 023 for my ZRX1100 but that was a heavy bike and i sold it shortly after.

the Scorpians are great in my opinion, im no knee scraper but i do get it over on roundabouts and long bends! id be happy with another set of Scorpians if they lasted longer?

good wet adhesion and long life from the centre of the tyre is paramount.

thanks for the advise on dual compounds however im fully aware of these tyres!

Rgds Lee.

[RichardU]

Originally Posted by blacktiger

It's designed that the 10mm bolt side is seated and the only "slot" is on the 8mm bolt side. Not every handlebar clamp is designed this way as some require a gap both sides but these don't. The 10mm bolt are what clamps the whole thing to the top yoke. So, you should tighten the 10mm bolts fully and then the 8mm. The 8mm bolts just clamps the handlebars.

Good catch.

[cug]

Originally Posted by blacktiger

My instinct is that you're doing #3 & 4 the wrong way round. It's designed that the 10mm bolt side is seated and the only "slot" is on the 8mm bolt side.

Think about it again:

1) Make the big bolt flush (not torqued).
2) Torque the small bolt (will have slot).
3) Torque the big bolt from flush to tight.

Slot is on the small bolt applying the pressure to the handlebar as it is supposed to be. The manual says "torque the big bolt first" but that has the downside that you can't rotate the Rox risers to the desired position anymore. You can completely follow the manual if the position of the Rox works for you where you can tighten the 8mm bolts through the hole in the Rox clamp.

[cug]

Originally Posted by RichardU

Good catch.

See my explanation. It's correct if you don't want to be able to put the Rox risers in the desired position - which is impossible with the front bolts fully torqued.

[BlackBeast]

Thanks for clearing that up. I'm doing my rox install this evening.

[Snapper]

Given the recent tire talk, I'll throw in my experience with tires on my Roadie, now with ~22k miles and I ride mostly tight technical twisties.

Changed my stock Scorpions at 5k - front tires hit side wear bars and "V" profiled badly and made for scary handling. Another example of fronts wearing out first and I've always worn 1.5 rears to 1 front in the past.

Next were Anakee2s in the stock size - fronts were reaching side wear bars in 2.5k! while the rears were absolutely fine. Michelin partially warranteed this front and I put on a 110/80-19 RADIAL Anakee2 instead.

Ran two sets of the Anakee2 RADIALs 110/80-19 and 150/70-17. Rears good for about 6-7k and fronts maybe 10k (back to 1.5 : 1 ratio) which is about as good as I'll ever get. I like to swap both tires at the same time for obvious reasons.

Love this radial front - haven't had a tire retain such a round profile to the very end like this. I generally don't comment on "stickiness" as I'm a pure street rider and rarely slide on clean asphalt (wet or dry) - so in that regard, all premium tires seem to "stick" fine for me. The most important thing for me are how long the tires last, and how badly they profile toward the end - "V" in front, flat spot in rear.

I have 110/80 and 150/70 Anakee3 radials on now (a couple hundred miles but will reserve comment to the end of life). I'm hoping for longer life while maintaining round profile to the end.

Don't know if my front "V" profile/excessive tire wear issues are due to bias-ply vs radial (Michelin only seems start radials at 110/80 size, not sure about the Scorpions), or as mention above, something to do with the narrower tires (contact patch should be the same size though - I understand determined by weight and air pressure alone).

[swimmer]

Originally Posted by Snapper

Given the recent tire talk,.

I'm running the Anakee2 right now and the noise alone is enough for me not to buy them again. I like the rear tire feel but not the front. I got around 12k miles from the OEM tires (front could have gone another couple thousand miles) which is average for me. I expect the rear Anakee2 to at least last that long but can't see the front making it that far. The Anakee3 looks nicer. Lots of good tires to choose from for this bike.

[marloweluke]

Originally Posted by swimmer

I'm running the Anakee2 right now and the noise alone is enough for me not to buy them again. I like the rear tire feel but not the front. I got around 12k miles from the OEM tires (front could have gone another couple thousand miles) which is average for me. I expect the rear Anakee2 to at least last that long but can't see the front making it that far. The Anakee3 looks nicer. Lots of good tires to choose from for this bike.

That's amazing. I've haven't really gotten more then 8400 km out of a rear, that's just over 5k miles. You must have really smooth tarmac where you live, I suspect mine get chewed up by rough winter worn asphalt.

[Yossarian™]

Originally Posted by marloweluke

That's amazing. I've haven't really gotten more then 8400 km out of a rear, that's just over 5k miles. You must have really smooth tarmac where you live, I suspect mine get chewed up by rough winter worn asphalt.

Not too many frost heaves and chuckholes in Tucson, I suspect.

[swimmer]

Originally Posted by marloweluke

That's amazing. I've haven't really gotten more then 8400 km out of a rear, that's just over 5k miles. You must have really smooth tarmac where you live, I suspect mine get chewed up by rough winter worn asphalt.

Just checked my maintenance log and I removed the OEM Scorps at 13,333 miles. I am also averaging over 54mpg over the life of the bike so I am there is some correlation between the two. It's not that I am a slow rider. I have some track experience and have been to a track school, I guess I just don't find myself doing a lot of fast accelerations which is where rear tire wear (and poor mpg) are mostly going to come from.

[swimmer]

Originally Posted by Yossarian™

Not too many frost heaves and chuckholes in Tucson, I suspect.

The heat and lack of city budget must be enough to do the trick then because most of the roads here are in bad condition.

[Snapper]

Originally Posted by swimmer

.... I guess I just don't find myself doing a lot of fast accelerations which is where rear tire wear (and poor mpg) are mostly going to come from.

I get no enjoyment out of acceleration in straight lines - just tickets. My experience is that riding lots of twisties at spirited paces kill tires, and straight line/slab riding is the easiest on tires. Twisties wear out the center of rear tires through engine braking setting up entry speed for corners and coming down mountains and simply the constant variations in speed, road grade and lean angles - we rarely use brakes. My riding groups occasionally head down to NC and WV for some great mountain riding, and with about twice as many corners as the Northeast, we burn tires in half the time, or about 3k for PR3s on liter bikes. I've worn out a few sets of rear tires on the sides before the centers as well.