Opening the electronic bean can of worms Has anyone opened the electronic bean can? The story is fairly well known from my other posts, for those who don’t know the bike stood for about 8 or 9 years. Initially the problem was very hard starting which with the help of the guys on the forum was eventually narrowed down to the ignition timing. But I could not quite get the right marks and the thought was that the advance/ retard springs were seized. After setting up the timing marks and removing the bean can I was astounded to find heaps of rust and gunk in it. This is the question has anyone else opened up the electronic bean can? What are the things to look out for when stripping and cleaning it? I marked it so that I can put it back the way it came out. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks Bushyb You can see more on my previous post: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=831671<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
There is a small oval lid on the side which , err, can be prised off to give access to inspect, and possibly lube, the AR weights and springs. To access the AR components the pin which retains the drive dog has to be driven out, then when the top bearing and sensor plate are removed the spindle and the AR assembly just lifts out.
Just did mine and used this link ! http://www.gunsmoke.com/motorcycling/r100gs/auto_advance/index.html
Thanks for the help, I hope I got all the writing correct here. Okay so I removed the bean can. Got some links and info supplied by some of the guys here and elsewhere. It was a fairly strait forward job. On opening the can I took photos as I went and marked everything. There was quite a lot of dirt and rust in it. Clean it out and used 800 P wet & dry and fine steel wool with a squirt of CRC. Cleaned it up like new again. Looking at a photo I posted earlier which I got from one of the links I notice that not all the washers were in the photo. And also reading some of the info on striping and the re assembly there was no mention of the correct way to check that you put it back correctly.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o> What I can tell you is even though you think you got it put together right you can still stuff it up, even with all the marks aligned. I don't know if it is different on other bikes but on my '82 R100RS the 2 tooth drive dog that come of the bean can and mates up with the crank shaft is ever so slightly off set by 2 or 3 mm and not easy to noticed by just thinking it mates straight in. <o></o> So when putting it back together check this at the time of re-assembly before driving the locking key back in place. Once again on my bike I don't know if it’s different on other models but on the crank shaft end there is a white painted mark. When the end cover of the bean can is removed and you look down the side of the inner can you can see the Hall micro switch. Before fitting the bean can check the static timing by getting the "S" in the window as per the manual. <o></o> Once you got this all set up re-check the position of the dog off set, check that the Hall micro switch in the same position or quadrant as the white mark on the end of the crank shaft if you got one. If memory serves me right mine was in the left upper quadrant. Now just fit it in place it should just slide in and the dog should mate up with the crank shaft. If it does not go in you have got the dog the wrong way round. Hope that is of some help to someone else. <o></o> Remember now the original problem was difficult starting and once started I couldn't get the full range of timing between static and fully advanced, which is now thankfully solved from the sticky weights. Thanks for the help. Thanks!<o></o>
Hi Guys I have been away a while and the bike has been standing and standing, I have now got new throttle and choke cables fitted which are set completely free. Started the bike once again with some difficulty. My thoughts are back at the bean can that I overhauled at the time. Now once I get the bike started it starts idling a tad high at about 1200 RPM then as it warms up it starts idling higher and higher gradually. This take about two minutes then it is idling 3000 RPM and even if I blip the throttle it comes back to about 3000 RPM. I am thinking the thingies inside the bean can are stuck. I opened the little inspection cover on the side of the can and sprayed CRC brake cleaner in it and tried it once it had dried out and the result was the same. I then tried it again spraying CRC 5.56 lubricating spray and it still was the same??? I tried this a few times with no luck. Any ideas? I guess I will have to strip it again??? Is there something special I should be looking out for?
Yes, a great many people. I wonder how all the water got in it. Was it "standing"" underwater? I just said yes. is there an echo in here? The usual: breaking stuff and loosing small parts. Heck, loosing any parts. Punching out the pin can be difficult. You want the proper size pin punch and a good quality one. Buy two, they break easily. Wear eye protection on that one. Excellent. Now mark every piece you take out of the can so it all goes together exactly the way you took it apart. You can see more on my previous post: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=831671<!--?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /--><o></o>[/QUOTE] I don't fully get your problem. Start with giving it a tune up. Set the valves dead on with go/no-go gauges and do it with the engine stone cold. Then set the timing when itr's warm enough to be off the chokes. Last set the carbs. Don't get into the bean can until you know exactly what the "thingies" are, what they do and what to call them. There is plenty on the web on doing this work. Read it all. But do the tune up first. A tight exhaust valve will make starting difficult. Improperly adjusted carbs will throw the idle off. Get all that stuff right, then see if you still have a problem. Also drain the gas and put fresh stuff in. ALL fresh stuff. Gas is good for a month at most without stabilizer in it. Old gas = big grief.
I don't fully get your problem. Start with giving it a tune up. Set the valves dead on with go/no-go gauges and do it with the engine stone cold. Then set the timing when itr's warm enough to be off the chokes. Last set the carbs. Don't get into the bean can until you know exactly what the "thingies" are, what they do and what to call them. There is plenty on the web on doing this work. Read it all. But do the tune up first. A tight exhaust valve will make starting difficult. Improperly adjusted carbs will throw the idle off. Get all that stuff right, then see if you still have a problem. Also drain the gas and put fresh stuff in. ALL fresh stuff. Gas is good for a month at most without stabilizer in it. Old gas = big grief.[/QUOTE] Thanks, All the items you have listed above have been done including the cards etc. The cables are totally free. As the bike warms up the idling get higher until about 300 rpm. Something is causeing it to idel higher like auto advance stuck....... This was before I cleaned it out the first time which was the original problem.
Thanks, All the items you have listed above have been done including the cards etc. The cables are totally free. As the bike warms up the idling get higher until about 300 rpm. Something is causeing it to idel higher like auto advance stuck....... This was before I cleaned it out the first time which was the original problem.[/QUOTE] Tune for the correct idle speed with it warmed up and see what happens. What the bean can looked like before you cleaned it doesn't say a lot. What do you see through the window and look in there with your timing light too, you can observe the advance weights working.
