40

Rightio then. Time to stop procrastinating and write this ride report. Weird thing is, I spent SO much effort, did SO much planning and had such a bloody good time that it's like I don't want to share! Like it's a very special gift, a time in my life where I was free. Didn't have to be anywhere, had no where to go. Freedom.

Anyway..... So this year was a milestone in my life. I turned 40 0n the 6th of June and I wanted to be in the desert, surrounded by friends and motorcycles. I had 10 years long service leave so took 4 weeks so that time would not be a pressure. Nice. I made it home with 37 dollars to my name and a week left of holidays to relax, unpack and savour. Do holidays get much better? I've never experinced any better.

I acheived my two goals, I WAS in the desert, I WAS surrounded by bikes and it was special. I'm not going to forget in a hurry. It was the usual thing, lots of blokes wanting to come along but because of commitments, handbrakes, work or whatever in the end it was three of us that started. Me, Smorgy and my 67 year old Dad.


The rough plan was to meet Dad at Dalby Qld and ride around the bottom of Lake Eyre, watch the Finke desert race and travel home on the Plenty River highway. Effectivley doing a circumnavigation of the Simpson desert. But we really didn't care. To watch the Finke would be nice but if we didn't make it, so what? As long as we were having fun...

I'm not the greatest photographer and I had a borrowed camera. Price was good! Some of these I pinched from Smorgs facebook page but you'll get the story..

The Kickoff. Smorgs giving his mum the big HooRoo... Mum gave us some muffins to take... "Oh Mum, get real!!!!" but later that day they were the greatest thing I'd EVER put in my mouth. Funny that! Note the mighty DR650 and TE610. Smorgs rode the DR and I the TE. This was the first time Smorgs had ridden a dirt bike, in anger, in years. How'd he go? Champion. I'd ride anywhere with the bloke. I hope we do.



Dropped into Toowoomba to scab a free feed... Opps I mean say Hooray to Erin and the boys.



Hooked up with Dad at Dalby..



Our first camp. Caravan park lawn at St George I think. Crikey my memory is crap. But I do remember the bloke charged us 15 bucks each. Thing is, 10 feet away was a fence which we should've jumped and camped for free, same lawn... Who woulda though two bottles of medicine, otherwise known as green steam, could cost 44 dollars!



I'd changed my front brake hose the night before leaving and bleeding it was sensationally difficult. It was still mushy so Dad appointed himself supervisor as I had another chop at it... Some say we look similar. Can't see why???



The old bloke at Bollon me thinks



As you can see, the clouds moved in.... And it started pouring down. Buckets. Cold. You know those gloves you sold me as waterproof nice asian lady at Zillmere? Could you please define your idea of waterproof? I got a little anxious as ANY rain out west shuts roads and there were a few that I wanted to cross. We got to Cunnamulla, filled up with fuel and looked at each other with lost looks... "It aint meant to be raining, don't we live in one of the most arid continents in the world?" Smorgs spied a shelter/shed thing. If in doubt, have a brew.



We procrastinated until we decided that this was a good place to sit out the rain, even if that meant a few days. I cracked the rum flask. Dad paced around, as Dads do...



It absoloutley BUCKETED down that night. Wind, rain and cold. Rain blew in through the roof but luckily the next morning it began to lighten up. We packed and headed off. Next stop, Thargomindah.

I'd posted some tyres to Thargomindah so that I didn't have to carry them on the tar. Dad looked at his D606 and decided that he wouldn't need a spare. My tyres already had about 3k on them but looked fine. So instead of changing them at Thargomindah as planned I strapped 'em on the bike.



Smorgs discovering what a 14 dollar outback hamburger looks like...



Because of the rain, Bullo Downs road was shut. Bummer. So we had to do the Noccundra way to camerons corner.

Had to stop and help one of the locals get across the road.



On the way to Noccundra



Australia is SO vast. SO beautiful. I can't describe the feeling in my chest that I get when I go out scrub. Like belonging. A harsh love or something.

Noccundra pub.



The young barmaid inside was a delight. What is it with me and barmaids??? Later I was reliably informed that she uhhum... batted for the other team shall we say?? Oooops..

That's right boys and girls..... 175 cents a liter. And that wasn't the dearest we struck...



The start of the REAL dirt on the way to Camerons corner.





The turn off to Camerons corner. MIGHTY HUSQVARNA!!





The nice thing about being a small group, being self reliant and self contained? You see a nice spot, camp. We didn't get pushonitis and as soon as it started to get near skippy kamikaze time we'd pull up, set up and brew up.

About a hunge out of Camerons corner.



The Parker clan males, reknown idols of sexiness..... Necessity desert wear. Grundies and Fly net.



Smorgs breaking camp.



Towards CC



More to come..

More..

People live and prosper out this way..



The obligatory Camerons Corner pics. Fuel was $2 dollars a liter and water $4.50 a liter. Brand new help. Nice blokes.





AND off again...



Onto the Bore track to Innamincka. What a GREAT road!! Salt pans, Dunes, Gibber plains, the works.. 5 bucks a bike for road maintenance. Seems fair.



One of my fave pics of the old bloke. I've printed this and framed it.







Innamincka



Burkes Grave



I decided to change my tyres at Innamincka. Takes about an hour in the shed at home..... Lucky I can't find the pics just yet (I think smorgs has them) because all you'd see would be blue. Two pinch flats and six hours later....... f^&&K F%^&&K!!!! How can this be?? Pinch flats!! I felt like a Gumby.... "Right Smorgs, that's how NOT to change tyres, I'm glad I could show you that......." I'll look for some pics.

Smorgs took off while I cursed and swore and had a look at the dig tree.

Smorgy. Odd name for a bloke I hear you thinking. This is why. When I worked with him, didn't matter where we were within 15 minutes Smorgs had found a smorgasboard for us to eat at that night. Uncanny skill. Handy, as one can never truly be lost.

So after battling with tyres for 6 hours, I'm sitting by the bank of the very beautiful Cooper creek in my chair millionaire drinking cool water from the canteen and the comforting sound of the DR650 approaches.
Smorgs pulls up. Smorgs is a trust bloke. You know the type. Quiet. A thermonuclear weapon could explode in the next camp and he'd simply get out the billy, brew up and toast marshmellows.
Says Smorgs... "Were in luck mate."
"Why's that whitey?"
"found us a smorgasboard...."

Picture this. Camped on a creek, thousands of kilometers from the nearest anything and I'm sittin there hearin' this.. A cricket bat swung smartly between the eyes would have had less effect.

Sure enough, Thargomindah pub had a Buffet dinner on for 25 bucks and the State of Origin game on the big screen outside with fires in 44 gallon drums. Nigella Lawson could've turned up in evening wear calling our names and we couldn't have cared.

But there is a Bad side. Dad fell off on the Bore track on the way to Thargomindah and to cut a long story short fractured his foot. Luckily he didn't know this until they Xrayed it back in Qld.... So that cut his trip short as he had to take the tar way back home... Bet that 500klms to Lyndhurst was tough 'though. I was the usual supportive caring son that I am. I strapped his foot with gaffer tape and told him to "suck it in big fella"... Oops. Sorry Dad

The next day Smorgs and I set off on the Walkers crossing track to drop onto the Birdsville track. Again a magnificent track. The changes in enviroment are startling, beautiful and indescribeable. You just gotta go.









Smorgs and I got a little anxious as on the horizon was a great plume of black smoke. We'd both been taught that if your in need of assistance in the desert and need it bad, burn your tyres and hopefully someone will see it. We discussed it, but in the end became certain that it was something to do with the numerous natural gas fields out that way. This was reinforced when we came over a dune to find what appeared to be a space station plonked in the middle of the simpson. A fly in fly out Gas camp. Surreal. Brand new, modern and really like some moon base. Totally incongruous.

These were in one of the sheds. Seems that when it rains, this is all you can get around on......



Someone's story..



Walkers crossing to Birdsville track intersection



Buggered if I can remember the name of this place. Had a hot spring that I had my first bath in 5 days in... Sweeeet!!!



Mungerannie!!! That's right!!



Then off 'round the bottom of Lake Eyre.

More to come.

Keep it going this is good

One of the best pictures I've seen on this site.
Nice work!
Nice undie shots too

Write on!!

I'll get my side of the trip up and going as soon as possible!

Hi,

Great report and pics!

Jeez... you had some gear with you all,
I would be interested to know what you carried, and if there was any gear that you would not take, if you did it again?

Thanks

Dobbo

Nice trip, thanks for taking the time to post it up! Great pic of your old man, I wish I had one like that of my dad...

BTW my 8' TrailTech HID racelight turned up today for my 610... hope your LV full system fell out of the sky?? (would love to whack that Barrett pipe on... no pressure or anything... hahahha ah good things come to those who wait I guess!)

Now get back to posting those pics!!!

Allrighty then. Found some more pics.... Nah.. Stole some more from Smorgs!!! And one from Desert Dog. Thanks Mate!

More Bore track... Magnificent.











An old radial sleeve valve engine from some poor unfortunatyes. Innaminka



Lucky photo's don't have sound tracks...



And in case you thought I was making it up... open theatre, Innaminka, State of Origin style..



From Walkers crossing and on to The Birdsville track..







Trucks at Manganannie, Munganinnie, Munganonn.. oh bugger! Sorry



So, when your near the Cooper creek on ya way down the track and she rains... No worries, left the tinnie out for ya mate!



Old Locomotive at the start of the Ghan at Marree??? Someone?? And the Yacht club. All I remember was it seemed to be THE most remarkably civilised place in Australia. The lovely lovely german backpacker girl with tremendous "assets" who served us, in the supermarket no less, with a feed and a beer for 8 bucks. How Aussie is that!!!





Our first sighting of Lake Eyre. Now apparently it was 15 meters BELOW sea level here and wind the wind blows south, all the water blows north and visa versa. The locals all assured us that the best way to see it was to jump on a bug smasher and fly over it. $250 bucks. That ruled me out. That's a whole lotta fuel... Was pretty though. A little rain and a lovely FULL rainbow... Nice..

Me striking the "Manly Man surveys" pose. Because me and Smorgs are manly hairy men. And Proud. Quite Smelly too....







What's essentisally left of the Ghan railway. Seems most things out this way are built of old sleers... wonder why??



Smorgs bike was a little tired by now.... had to have a little lie down.....



So picture this in your mind. Middle of the desert in 1887. No real water. No power tools. Big vat of hot oil to melt rivets. Girder made and shipped from England. Probably getting paid close to nothing. Your building a railway to where?????







We met these no hopin good for nothin louts at William creek... Have another look. GS BMW with side car and trailer, Pops and Mum onbourd with everything INCLUDING the fridge and kitchen sink... On there way to Broome via the simpson and the Tanami...

By the way... Don't give lip to the barmaid at William creek... don't ask how I know except to say that's the most dramatic inflation on a bottle of port I've ever struck........



Rockets at William Creek. Close to where that big mug PM of ours, Menzies, thought it'd be a great idea to let the Poms detonate nuclear weapons... He was a Liberal? Right????





Now, Rant switch on. How hard is it to make a folding chair that lasts more than 4 days??????????????? Smorgs and I went out and paid 35 bucks for these. Lucky the General Manager of BCF or whatever it's called wasn't handy. Smorgs would've introduced him to the concept of deep colonic obstruction.....



More of the Ghan line, which you follow pretty much all the way to Alice Springs from the southern end of Lake Eyre...





So we are on the Oodnadatta track in one of the most arid areas in the world. The last thing you expect is to see a creek full of water. Smorgs and I were on the gas, making time to Oodnadatta. Smorgs saw it first, hit the picks, realised that it was WAY beyond that point so pinned it......



The end result was a spray of water AT LEAST as big as the Landrovers... I was SO busy pissing myself with laughter that I had a brain fade, gassed it on the out side and the Husky bit. Bit me hard. Instant Karma return me thinks... She swapped ends on the slick wet clay SO quick I was lying on my face with the bike up the road. About 15 seconds later my brain caught up. Ouch Ouch Ouchy Ouch. Gave the left knee and Ankle a real tune up. 3 weeks later I'm still hobbling. Moral... Wear knee guards, always. I was and without it it would've been helicopter ride time.....

Oodnadatta road house..



On the way to Finke via Dalhousie springs. BMW riders... Odd breed. Gunna leave that one all alone. Nah, bugger it... This mob of BMW riders had a Suzuki DR650 bloke who went ahead and checked the track for 'em. Check that it wasn't gunna make their bikes dirty or summat.... I'll leave that for Smorgs to explain.... Smorgs? Oh... and a lovely 4wd to carry the Foi Gra and Bubbly......




Dalhousie station ruins. Man, how hard would they have had it?? We are a country of softcocks in comparison, now.









Then off to Dalhousie Springs for a wash and a camp... More to come!

Dalhousie Springs. An Oasis. Big pool of water at a constant 38 degrees centigrade. Big swim and wash. When you stand so very still, the fish swim up and ever so gently nibble at ya... At your toes, at your fingers, your nipples... It was ever so oddly arousing.. Now I've spent a week by now on the road with Smorgs, and yes there was some lovely young European tourists inBikini's swimming....... Just wrong. Shouldn't be allowed. Lucky I'm old now..









Man, Pops sure had this campin thing sorted!! How are ya Pops? Where are ya??







Then off to Finke... Saturday, Race day.....



I swear the Locals were pulling our leg with these... "YA Think???"



Mount Dare. A young Victorian Couple had JUST signed up to be the caretakers a week before. I think she was still in shock... Metro cafe latte Melbourne direct to Mt Dare, do not pass go and make sure you check the dunny for snakes....



It felt like I had finally come home. Gee it was a nice feeling. They say if you've seen the Todd river flood 3 times you'll be back. I was back.



We hit Finke. Smorgs and I got seperated somehow, no biggy I'll find him, so I had a poke around. I was startled. Suprised. Our indigenous brothers still live in 3rd world conditions. Still. In 2009. Believe it. And there was a marked obvious unspoken segregation. This is Blackfella side of the track and this is Whitefella side. Never the twain shall meet. It shocked me. The Locals seem to have a Non person attitude, like the Blackfella just slips under the radar. I can't really comment as I don't live there. But that was my initial impression. Same goes for Alice Springs.

But I digress.... RACE TIME!!! more to come.

Sir,
If you have even been to the crowded Old Continent, then you'll understand that this picture of
a "street corner" is hilarious for us. I love your report as it shows a world very far from mine, in both cultural
and geographical.

[TaSK]

Nice work FBC.








Which one is you..........................

pretty good photography for someone using a borrowed camera FBC
What is brand and source of the twin head light on old mates DR650?
Awesome to do that trip with your old man too.

We are back:eek1 It was great to meet and ride with both of you. I hope your knee is getting better .Great ride report . Ian (pops) and Cathy (Mrs Pops ) PARKER



Quote(We met these no hopin good for nothin louts at William creek... Have another look. GS BMW with side car and trailer, Pops and Mum onbourd with everything INCLUDING the fridge and kitchen sink...)

( And their own computer tec.

WOW
Great Ride Report !
Thanks for sharing

Nice looking country to ride in!

Awesome! Thanks!

Outstanding report FBC great pics and words makes me feel like I was There. Thanks mate

Rightio then.... Thanks everyone for your encouragement! Gudday Pops!!!! How busted is Smorgs being the computer geek dude!! Top work!!

Some more pics n stuff....

Finke desert race. Something that you should experience. Soon. Very Soon. like next year. Don't have any doubts, just go. Do it before the Hippy Police step in and try and sanitize the whole thing. Two hundred and twenty something klms one way on Saturday, turn around and do it again on Sunday. It seemed to me it was pretty much run whatchya brung kinda deal. There was bikes of all descriptions, from Ben Grabhams full factory Kato to a TTR 600. Quads. Buggies, Utes, Trucks. About 20% of the entrants appeared to take it serious and the rest just there for the ride and experience. I hope to be one of the latter very soon.

We saw it from the Finke end. Smorgs, Desert Dog, Pops and I camped on the Finke river which is approximately 5klms from the Finke community. There were Camel tracks on the bank where we camped. Crikey it was cold that night!! The impromtu fire works went on for at least two hours and we could hear the Yahooing from5 k's away. You can't imagine it. The pits is also where you camp. Mix in blokes being blokes, Kids zooming around on quads and mini bikes, the locals playing AFL, young blokes playing music loud all while race teams strip, repair and test bikes and buggies upto and beyond two a.m. in the morning. Wonderful Wonderful chaos. The race track is right there. In front of you. Unlike the big city races where officials and stupid expensive passes and areas are cordoned off, the attitude seems to be "if your stupid enough to get in the way, what can we do?". Refreshing in this age of protect the lowest common denominator at the expense of the rest....

The Territory Police estimated 15000 people camped along the track this year. Hats off to the Police maintaining a sensible low key presence. How it should be done.

Some race pics...









Ben Grabham was the eventual winner on a Bike. It was obvious watching him why. What was noticeable was the obvious difference in pace between the 1st and 10th bloke. Ben was out for keeps, that was obvious. His KTM sounded tremendous. What irritated me was the lack of entrants from Husqvarna Australia. How do they expect to sell bikes if they don't enter these sort of events?

But the standout for me was the paraplegic bloke on the KTM. Serious. If he can do it then what excuse is there??

Got to meet up with Stormy, that was good. Wish I had his job!!!

After the bikes we packed up and headed for Alice springs. Somehow I had it in my head that it was about 200klms away... Blugh! More like 400!!

Along the way stopped to help Aunty whose rear wheel had fallen off... We swapped some wheel nuts from the 3 other wheels and as she left I remarked "Take it easy now Aunty..." About 15 minutes later guess who passed me as I sat on about 110??

Kulgera??




And camp at Alice. Smorgs and I had a rest day In Alice, did some washing, washed the bikes, a little sight seeing and a little maintenance. The caravan park at Alice was a cracker, the best I've ever stayed in! Bet they don't know that you can dry airfilters in the laundry dryer 'though! Tip no. 23.....





We finally got Smorgs a steak. I had promised him Buffalo but there twas none to be found. Emu, yes. Roo, yes. Camel, yes. But no Buff.



Smorgs and I then headed off towards the Plenty Highway.

When I was a kid about 25 years ago, I was luck enough to live in a little 100 to 200 people mining camp called Plenty River Mine about 300 klms NE of Alice. I was VERY keen to go back and have a look, even though it's been deserted for 20 something years.

We took the cattlemans pass to Hartz Range. Probably the most technical track of the whole trip but the view is spectacular. I didn't take enough pics!! Smorgs had a moment where I thought I was gunna have to call his Mum... Crikey it was close but he was wearing the brown underwear so all was good.



At Hartz Range we filled up with fuel. This next pic for me is 'the moment' of the trip. These guys were just great. How stoked was one bloke to find out Smorgs was in the Army!!



On the way to Plenty River. My Family will know....





We put a BIG day in and got to the mine at dusk. Very Very emotional time for me. I feel that I grew up out here. It kinda affected the rest of my life. Grew up with very few boundaries so that now I often don't understand others.

We camped at the old mine dam. Full of ducks, cormorants, wildlife.







It was a very very odd thing for me. In my mind I could still see the people, hear the noise and put the memories together. But now it was a ghost town picked of all the valuable bits.

You know that framed picture you have Dad? The one of you and the boys riding through the tailings dam? This is that spot now.



25 years ago, Dad and his mates bought this.



To make this...





On Christmas day when I was 11, he gave me a key for it. That's how I learnt to drive. His advice? "Don't push on the Throttle and brake at the same time..."

Strong Strong emotion. I couldn't believe it was still there.

More to come.