What oil did you have in the bike @ 20F? 10 Minutes is too long for me (a commuter). I wonder if I could do the 8 Cell in my R1200GS as a primary and then a smaller "Starter Pack" I can put in my gear bag that comes inside with me (stays warm). What size "Starter Pack" would I need? (We just came through a single digit & teens cold spell up here, overtaxing my OEM battery).
I've been testing these at 10,000 ft. at and around 20° with an old snowmobile. I've tried the 8 cell left overnight and it starts a little slow, but not 10 minutes. Not apples to apples, but it's so easy to flip the engine lid and I use quick connects so best for me to keep the battery inside and warm. If it takes only a couple of minutes to pop the battery out of a GS, you're still cutting it close with the 8 cell. I would recommend the 12. It would have enough extra juice to handle the cold without the extended warm up Snooker is referring to. The cold does affect all these batteries, so the more CCA the better. Cranking a bike with heavy weight and very cold oil is a factor.
15w40 Shell Rotella again it is winter here and I don't have the process down yet as I've only ridden it twice on the new battery! Plus it isn't 20 degrees in my garage where I normally keep it for commuting. It was no time at all at 40 degrees. But I wonder what the best recommended procedure is for warming it up. In my case this was an extreme and will not affect my commuting but just keep in mind.
This is good to know, thanks. 20 degrees w/ 15w oil means the starter had to work a bit harder. I had 15w oil at 18F two nights ago and the bike would not start without a jump. I now have 5w oil and am looking for more insurance in the starting department.
I have Micatechs, it takes a lot more than a few minutes for me. Besides, I commute, I need a process that is quick and repeatable, otherwise, it won't work for me (key phrase here is "for me"). What if I kept my OEM which is [kind of] working now and got a "Starter pack"? I really want to put a set of leads on the OEM battery with those PowerPole connectors and hang them out of the side. I'd then get a three of sets of PowerPole connectors: 1) Powerpole to SAE for my Battery Tender 2) Snip one end of 'gator clips off my jumper cable and put on a set of PowerPole connectors in their place. 3) Powerpole to a "Starter Pack" This way here, I could charge the batter on the 'Tender, jump the battery with my Starter Pack, and/or jump the battery with someone's car all without removing the seat. What size "Starter Pack" do you think I would need? The "Starter Pack" for all practically purposes, will always be warm.
As long as you can isolate/switcj your OEM battery the starter pack can work. You could use the Sycl 4.6 Ah or the 8 Cell ballistic for that. I would go with the Sycl 4.6 with the Anderson Powepoles you describe.
Got all my wiring finished this past weekend. I now have a 45A PowerPole setup coming off my battery and hanging from the side of the bike, along with a matching PowerPole to SAE for my Battery Tender, and a PowerPole plug on the end of my jumper cables. The addition of the "Starter Pack" will pretty much round it all out.
it's been over a year since this thread started.... so how's the mid-term feedback on these batteries? it's well known Li-ion cells don't perform at full capacity under colder conditions. how much power reduction can one expect to see for say 10f degree? 6 ah is not much reserve. I'd want a battery with at least equal to OEM amp hour reserves before factoring in reduction in performance for cold weather.
My Scorpion AGM has been behaving terribly for the past couple of weeks, and indeed I have had the indignity of having to drive a car to work a couple of times. I just placed an order for an eight cell ballistic and can't wait to get it.
It's not entirely accurate to say that these batteries don't perform well at lower temperatures because their chemistry allows them to self-heat so quickly. At 10° F you would need 3 - 4, 5 second starting pulses to heat the battery. The AH rating is misleading because these are lightweight starting batteries not designed for deep cycle use, like powering electrics when the bike isn't running for long periods. We recommend using the CCA or cold cranking amps when comparing to the OEM. If you replace your OEM that has say 180 CCA with an LFX battery with 275 CCA you should have enough reserve starting power for your cold weather starts.
On a different note, when you see the new opening photo on advrider... ...what you don't see in this picture is the Ballistic 8 Cell from www.Syclbatt.com in Neduro's KTM Rally bike. We were among several ADV vendors who sponsored Ned. In case anyone was wondering how the batteries stand up to abuse...
The battery is great so far, light in weight and starting my balky machine easily (although to be fair the weather has been much warmer this week). Thanks for the shirt!
Hi Jim, Can you suggest a unit for a DRZ 400 that is used for slow speed trail riding 90% of the time. The other 10% is 200 mile highway runs. Thanks k.
If you ride warm weather, (above 40°) the 4 cell will work great for you. Evo 2 - 4 Cell Ballistic. The Sycl 2.3 will also work.
Jim, I'm confused. For my 2008 BMW R1200GSA the chart calls for a (100-011) 8 cell battery but you and site info recommend the (100-012) 12 cell for 1000cc and above bikes. Ballistic 8 cell 112MM (L) x 60MM (W) x 103MM (H) Ballistic 8 Cell 275 CCA 835 grams 1.81 lbs. Ballistic 12 cell 112MM (L) x 86MM (W) x 103MM (H) Ballistic 12 Cell 410 CCA 1100 grams 2.5 lbs. Yusa YTX14-BS 150MM (L) x 87MM (W) x 145MM (H) YTX14-BS 200 CCA 3700 grams 8.1 lbs. 1. What is the difference in an EVO12 and EVO12L battery? 2. If I install an EVO12 in my 08 GSA and operate in normal temperatures will it just start my bike and run like the old lead acid battery? 3. Will it run all installed accessories with the bike running? You mentioned something about it isn't able to do deep cycle. 4. I don't get the 4 or 5 start cycles to "warm up the battery". Does the battery need to warm up or just press and go? * Up to 80% smaller than the stock battery * Up to 10lbs Lighter than the stock battery * Service life of over twice a lead acid in similar conditions * Industry leading 3 year warranty * Designed, developed, and assembled in the USA * Completely dry technology so batteries can be mounted in any direction * Non-toxic, recyclable, and can be air shipped * Applications for powersports vehicles from 50cc - 2300cc * Tested extensively by professional race teams * Impact and water resistant Each Ballistic Performance Component Battery is assembled by hand in the U.S.A. using computer designed custom cells, cases, and hardware. NOTE: Batteries are smaller than OEM batteries and may require spacers and shims to properly install and secure. Works with the original equipment charging system No trickle charger required, loses only 10% of charge over a year of static use
Answer 1. The (L) is left side negative for bikes with short battery cable leads. Answer 2. It should have better cranking that your OEM Answer 3. Bike running not a problem. Deep cycle means you don't want to leave accessories on for long periods without the motor running which would drain the battery. Answer 4. Unless you are riding in below freezing weather it will just press and go.If you went with the 8 cell you might have 4 or 5 cycles at 30° or lower
