What's involved in removing this??

Hi guys. What's involved in removing the finned part at the front on the engine. I want to get it blasted and painted. Anything special to look out for??

nothing special, no specific tool

Do I need to do anything special with the crank? Block it up ect ?

You will need the special hardened bolt/tool to remove the alternator rotor. It may help to heat the area around the front crank bearing, so it doesn't come off with the cover. Upon reassembly, don't forget the small round paper gaskets on the top two studs. Flywheel will hold the crank from moving forward, assuming it's still mounted...

There is a special tool needed to remove the rotor off the end of the crank, it's
basically a bolt with an end, snowbums page which you were given a link to, has
directions on a home made one, or you can buy this -

http://www.motorworks.co.uk/vlive/Shop/Parts.php?T=6&Q=Rotor+removal+tool&x=0&y=0

This one is from motorworks, I have the one from Shaw stainless, same thing. The
rotor can come off with some force, someone on here, wirespokes I think, recommended
catching it in a box which is good advice, or advise, depends who's giving it

Edit, bamboo types quicker than me!

Buy a new gasket and the two small donut gaskets. That is the timing chain cover. Under it is the inside of the engine. Keep it clean.

You will need something to heat the timing chain cover with as well. Putting the diode board back on without the right tools is a pain too. I use quarter inch Snap-On flex sockets.

Painting that cover is going to make the rest of your engine look real bad. Personally, I would clean it up real good and re-sand the ribs and what for when you need a timing chain and crank sprocket before I pull that cover.

What would be the best way to clean it up? I think i can see old paint flaking off it

Clean it with your favorite solvent, than soap and water. When dry, bead blast it. Wash it again, then paint it if you wish. Sand the ribs if you want it to look like new.

A phosphide acid based cleaner (wonder whells etc) and a small stainless brush will bring your cases up but you must wash it down with an alkaline based cleaner after.

Poweder coat the front case and then painstakingly clean the powder off the fins and other surfaces.

Looks amazing.. Exactly what I'm aiming for. Will Probably paint instead of Powdercoat tho

Most of the flaking seem so be on the end of the ribs , so Supershafts advice to sand the ends without removing the cover seems sound.

Clean up the existing paint with a good cutting polish, then finish it off with black Rub-N-Buff which will fill in thr scratches and nicks.

Got it off earlier no bother. Made my own bolt for pushing the rotor off. Slight heat to remove the casing and that was it. 20 min job. I will take it into work and use our glass blaster in it (it might not be aggressive enough).
Thanks for all the great advise guys

My next job once I clean up the timing casings is to remove the engine. Got the rear mounting bolt moving with a 3lb hammer. The front however seems solid. Will try some heat tomorrow.
I've also got the sump off to blast it clean. Took the strainer screen off and it is perfectly clean in there.. Result!!!

Careful with that. Though I've never personally ruined an engine that way, a lot of people (even car companies) will tell you never to use glass bead to blast anything that gets exposed to motor oil. Microscopic shards of glass embed themselves in the surface of the part being blasted and don't come off when washed with water or blown with compressed air. When the part gets reinstalled and the running motor heats up and expands the part, the shards of glass get released into the motor oil causing big damage to bearings.

I've never heard of this. My friend has an ex Rolls Royce wet blaster which uses water and glass. He uses this all day every day on engines. Il maybe take it over to him instead.

Guys with regards to the required gaskets... I can see the main paper gasket but where are the two smaller gaskets located??

The parts picture only shows one. The other is to it's left. They are both under a couple of the attachment bolts holding the cover on. If they are left off the cover may warp and bend, we are told. The really weird thing about the "donut" gaskets is they are sold separate from the main gasket and you have to buy 2.

Number 9 then? I swear there wasn't any fitted. I've checked everywhere.
Ok thanks il get them ordered up

Before getting the lump hammer out, try drawing the front mounting bolt out using the nut and various washers and spacers. The front mounting bolt picks up all the salt and other crap thrown up by the front wheel, lacks any lubrication from gearbox oil leaks and can be a bugger to remove. When replacing use lots of copaslip.