Black is the new orange

So, I have another thread with some poor running and stalling issues on my new-to-me bike. You can find it here: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1022679.

I wanted to chronicle my bike's journey from a 10-year-old nice bike to the best I can make her. My inspiration comes from you guys who've documented your bike's "restoration."

My grandfather taught me that there are two ways to do things: do it right, or do it again. With that in mind, I'll slowly dive into my new bike. Here she is two weeks after I rode her home from Rhode Island.



My plan is to tear the bike down to get a good idea of what has and has not been done. The dealer I purchased it from verified that all the TSB's and recalls were done except for the fuel tank crossover line. I asked them not to perform that one based on my research here.

I plan to get this all done in the next 6 months (aka this winter), so I have a good running bike I can ride like hell once the weather breaks.

Good thing not to get done. I sold my 2004 950 to a friend and told him everything has been done don't let any dealer do any thing to her unless you talk to me first. He let a dealer do the cross-over to the tanks and now it leaks all the time when he fills it up and its on the sidestand. Take your time and follow your gradfathers great advise!

We're getting hammered with lake effect snow this week - there's about four feet in my yard - so I had some time in the garage today.

I pulled the tanks to completely drain them - need every last drop for the snowblower. I also wanted to have my first look under my new girl's skirt.

Here's the right side:


And the left:


And my frame tag:


January 2004 build date, but I have black rims and a painted front fender. So do I have an early `04 or a late one?

The SAS valve has been removed, but you'll notice the plates with reed valves are still there. The hose is capped on the right side, which you'll see in a more detailed pic. I plan to get the block off kit and do the job right.

I also noticed the bike still has the charcoal canister on it, but some of the vents lines are missing/removed. Add another thing to my list of "Make it right."

One other item is one of the glove box bolts was stripped in the frame. You can see here that I reattached it with a zip tie for now.



I've looked at the Rottweiler Snap Out kit for the glove box. Does anyone know if it replaces all the glovebox bolts, or just some of them? Otherwise, I'll probably need to re-tap the threads on the frame.

I uncovered a couple things that I'd like some input on. As previously mentioned, the dealer presumable verified that all the TSB's were done. However it looks like I have the original cylinder head studs. I don't see any washers, the studs are flush with the edge of the nut, and the nut has a skirt at the bottom. Am I right?



On the other side I found these cap head nuts. Is that correct, or did someone do a half-assed job? You'll also notice the cap in the SAS tube. That's gotta go!



Finally, I noticed some blue-ish oil inside the skid plate. It's pretty thin and the bottom of the engine is dry. Could it be from the airbox breather? It seems to drip from the left side of the engine.

I have some initial parts coming in a few days - if it ever stops snowing. I'm starting another list now.

That's a half-ass job. Don't know what those left side cap nuts are, but the other nuts you showed are the originals that should be replaced and you are correct that there are no washers under these.

Brent

Looks pretty clean though, nice BDCW skid plate and Renazco seat. I would say check the clutch (blue lactate) and the water pump since you are in there. Two big issues with the 950. I just moved away from Traverse City MI to out west. Can't say I miss winter!

You have a late 04' it appears or a 04.5' . Check your rear rim, is it a 4.25"??

The early USA 04's were the orange S model w/ black rims and the silver standard w/silver rims. These were 03' models in the rest of the world.

My concern is a new head gasket was part of the TSB. I would replace the bolts myself, but not the head gasket. My new local dealer doesn't have any experience with 950's. Any chance KTM would cover an independent KTM expert doing it?

I checked the 2004 parts fiche and cap head nuts were used from the factory. So either the TSB wasn't done on my bike or my bike wasn't covered by it.
Time for some research and rear rim measuring.

Rim will have the size stamped on it.

The TSB was only for adding washers and re torquing if I remember correctly. Pretty sure a head gasket replacement was not part of that.

Yup, what Goss said. No need to pull the head when doing the TSB.

Qwik & Goss - Interesting. The 950info sites says, "A Tech Bulletin was issued calling for installation of redesigned head nuts and washers. Repair includes new head gaskets, nuts, washers etc. (later bikes have different part numbered heads)."

I did some searching and found this post: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=816273&postcount=1. It confirms what you both said. Replacement of the gasket was only necessary when a leak was present. It does mention using a special tool for the outside nuts. Do I necessarily need that?

BTW, I checked my rear rim. It's a Behr rim (same company as my GS had) and marked as a 18x4.0. The front rim is not marked at all, but has a Woody's sticker on it. I'm guessing the front rim was taco'd at some point and replaced.

This valve adjustment How-To in The Hall Of Wisdom (*bookmark it!) gives the lowdown on the head nuts as well.

Linky no worky.

Could it be this one: http://www.ktm950.info/how/Orange Garage/Valves/valve_adjustment.html?

"Experienced Valve Tweaker Guide"

Trying again: http://www.ktm950.info/how/Orange Garage/Valves/cpmodem_method/valve_adjust.html

The cap nuts are not part of the Tsb. It is in regard of the open nuts on the other side of the head, and two nuts inside the head..

Partnr:
60036078200 COLLAR NUT M 10 WS=13
60036078050 SHIM 10,2X19X1,5MM 05

Excellent, thank you!

No parts today thanks to the snowstorm, but I did get out and putt around the garage a bit. So no progress today, just some questions for the masses....

The paint on the tank immediately behind the radiator fan is peeling pretty bad. Almost like it's seen too much heat. I was thinking of cutting the loose stuff off with an Xacto knife and just covering it over with some black vinyl. I'm not too concerned about matching the existing finish. Just want to tidy it up a bit. Any experience with this?


I mentioned in my last update that the charcoal canister is still in residence. I'm assuming the white spout is to the canister, and the black one is the tank overflow, correct? If so, I need to get a hose on the overflow and direct it down to the skidplate.


My bike has the Scott triple clamps with risers built in. I think the bars need just a bit more rise to them, but I don't know what I have. They are ProTaper Contour's, but I can't make out the model. I think they might be Pastrana FMX/ATV Race bars by the little bit I can make out. Anyone see something different? I know it's tough to judge a bar without seeing it.
The bar is cut down to 27". I'm used to a 36" bar on a BMW GS. Anything out there in the 32-33" range that I should look at?


I also noticed that the throttle cables are routed different from the factory. I'm assuming this is because of the risers. However, the routing is less than ideal - the adjusters are impossible to reach and putting the key in the ignition is a PITA. I think I have enough slack to run them in the stock position, or should I look at longer throttle cables?
I thought about trying to move the ignition switch to a position off the bar clamp, but I think that's more trouble than it's worth. Oh, and I already ordered the right mirror mount, and the folding mirrors - hence no mirrors on the bike at the moment.


Here's the maze to the ignition key. There's no way to get my hand in there without almost dropping the key. Even more frustrating it trying to turn the key. Just looking for anyone's experience or input here.

Re the ignition key/switch, they're all like that you'll get used to it, file under character.

And lose that brick of a charcoal canister