DR350 Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by leonphelps, May 16, 2007.

  1. Greg Bender

    Greg Bender Long timer

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    IIRC, it pops out the top. Can be removed using typical "dental pick" tools. Just be careful not to gouge anything and you'll be set. Pretty easy, actually.

    Regards,

    Gregory Bender
  2. wawarides

    wawarides where's Laura0107? Supporter

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    If you're near a Batteries Plus store, you could see if they have this one. I've never tried it, though; I always just use Yuasa.
  3. kobukan

    kobukan almost gnarly

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    +1

    "Dig" it out from the top. Just make sure you get everything out and the hole is nice and clean before you try putting the new one in or it won't go. A little oil in the hole and on the new seal will help it slide in.
  4. flyinfuzz

    flyinfuzz 2 Quarts low

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    Thanks $ 2.75 seal $ 5.50 shipping :freaky
  5. Stretch67

    Stretch67 Mad Scientist Supporter

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    Are you asking if anybody has one for sale, or who prefers quiet over aftermarket loud? My 250 came with a scrapped-together POS homebrew pipe that sounded like crap, so I found a good used pipe on FleaBay. Nice and quiet.

    I did the same with the gutted pipe on my new '98 XR400... stock quiet pipe from eBay. I hate loud pipes.
  6. RuggedExposure

    RuggedExposure Now with more rugged

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    Just put on new front sprocket, rear sprocket, chain, changed the oil and adjusted the valves.

    While I had the tank off, I took a pic of my security switch I installed. I don't have a fancy key ignition like the SE owners, so I put on a kill switch before the spark plug and stuffed it to where I can barely fit my fat finger under the tank and engage it.

    [​IMG]
  7. kobukan

    kobukan almost gnarly

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    I've thought about doing something like that, but if I'm really nervous about where I'm leaving the bike I shift it into a high gear (4th, 5th or 6th) and switch the headlight all the way off. On the Baja Designs handlebar switch I have the bike won't run with the switch in that position. I figure most thieves won't know that, and even if they figure it out they're going to make a lot of noise stalling out repeatedly before they ever find a gear they can take off in. :lol3
  8. TopDeadCenter

    TopDeadCenter Been here awhile

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    Quick question about the auto decomp on a '94 se. Is there supposed to be a lever sticking out of the valve cover? I thought the auto decomp models didn't have anything there. Mine does but doesn't have a cabel or bracket. Am I missing something here? Did someone put an older head or motor into this bike?

    TDC
  9. canyonkid

    canyonkid Does it Matter

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  10. slartidbartfast

    slartidbartfast Life is for good friends and great adventures Supporter

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    As likely as not only the top end would be changed if someone messed with the engine for some reason. If the bike does indeed autodecompress then those parts are inside. If it doesn't then it needs a cable and lever fitting.
  11. RuggedExposure

    RuggedExposure Now with more rugged

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    My ADV stickers finally came in.

    [​IMG]
  12. Bonerov

    Bonerov Damned dirty ape

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    Nice ammo boxes. I have a pair of boxes that I want to install on my DR, but haven't figured out how I want to mount them yet. I will likely end up having a buddy help me fab up something custom. So many projects, so little time (and money).
  13. RuggedExposure

    RuggedExposure Now with more rugged

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    Thats what I ended up doing.
    here is the thread if you need some idea on where to start.
    http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=824069&page=4
  14. O'Hooligan

    O'Hooligan Ken Dodd's dads dogs dead

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    Anyone have a CDI unit they want to sell? Or where to find a reasonably price one? I have a 96 DR350SE, but I believe any 94-99 SE model will work.
  15. ctjohnson

    ctjohnson Adventurer

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    Thanks Greg. Install was easy and the new boots look great.
  16. tntmo

    tntmo Oops, I did it again.

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    I don't think the E-start engine has a decomp cable and lever. The 94+ dirt models have the same auto-decompression cam and have a decomp lever, even though you don't really need to use it.
  17. Bonerov

    Bonerov Damned dirty ape

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  18. TopDeadCenter

    TopDeadCenter Been here awhile

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    That is what I was thinking. The guy I bought it from is supposed to get me a box of parts for the bike including a skid plate and a sprocket cover. I will see if there is a lever in there.

    The code list doesn't differentiate between engine codes just frame VIN. At least the frame VIN matches the year and my title. That's a plus.

    TDC
  19. Greg Bender

    Greg Bender Long timer

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    If you end up needing a skid plate, let me know. I've got a couple I'm selling cheap:

    http://thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/for_sale_parts_dr350.htm

    Regards,

    Gregory Bender
  20. MrPulldown

    MrPulldown Long timer

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    http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nkw=dr350cdi&_sacat=0&_from=R40

    Dang I did not know that CDI's were that expensive. I jsut keep my eye out on ebay. Someone will come by with a part out and sell all teh parts for 20 bucks each.

    A DR250 will kind of work. According to Pablo, it will run the bike. Has more aggressive timing, spark advance, rev limiter (not sure exactly what all those mean). Says his bike will ping at lower elevations with the DR350 CDI.