So Here's My Clutch Disc

0 friction material on the disc itself :eek1

1996 1100GS with low miles (I think) I bought it as a non runner and it was accidented sometime in the past and a complete 1150 front installed. All seals, bearings etc and fine.

I'm thinking I want to try a VW airhead clutch disc.

Should I be changing all the clutch parts as the kit or can I refinish them or use as is?? No scarring from rivets

I'm also loocking for vw clutch plate , the bmw dealer ( not official ) wants around 700 us for the clutch kit, that way i am willing to try the vw clutch . As soon i have it i will post some pic for the modifications

Hi from Australia When people talk about how expensive it is to replace a clutch assembly and we know it is, this could be a more cost effective way. I did this with an airhead clutch plate many years ago and its still in service, Check the internal spline, so if it is all good, Head to off to these guys http://www.ottawaclutch.com/ and ask them if the plate can be re bonded. This can be done for a fraction of the price of a new plate to BMW's spec. Cheers

Great idea DB

I'll drop over tomorrow and see what they have to say and post back.

Come to think of it I had a shop outside Montreal who were working on my 77RS install a redone clutch plate they sourced. Worked fine.

What kind of disc is that? I've seen a lot of R259 clutch discs but not a segmented one.

Whoa! It all depends on the condition of the splines!

It's a standard disc with the friction material disintergrated/worn away.

Very common on an abused bmw clutch

Input splines are excellent, rear end splines are also blemish free. Besides the clutch the internals are really good ... so far. The outside of the bike isn't so pretty but I got it cheap..

I'm told the bike has 44k km but with the new 1150 guages I'm not sure.

I saw some pics of Steptoe's on another thread so I wasn't totally shocked to see all the friction material in a spiders nest at the bottom of the housing ... in fact when I saw that I was releived as it meant the tranny probably isn't cooked.

Below are some clutch threads.

180mm clutch disk BMW vs VW

1996 R1100GS Clutch install

Ceramic clutch, less than half the Touratech price

So, those segments are what the friction material is riveted to? Okay sounds familiar. I don't think I've ever seen one that worn out.

Interesting also how each corner of each segment edge is worn so symmetrical at the "breaks". When I pulled the original friction disc from my R1100RS, which was worn right down to the rivets like this one, the friction material was obviously thin but still unbroken on both sides.

Have it re-faced with new friction material. Check out this cat Southland Clutch in Cali. dan@southlandclutch.com fast turn around, couple hundred clams +- includes inspection of all mating components. airhead friendly.

If you mean the separations in the disc, it's not from wear, it's made that way for some reason. Maybe keeps it lighter or more flexible?

Cooling

Is that cooling with a ? or cooling with a !

Yep, that what I was referencing as I was unaware of OEM segmented discs (as was Anorak, apparently). When Steptoe called it a "standard disc" I figured he meant OEM, but I wondered if it was an aftermarket disc since it was segmented. Others here know more about that than me though.

Yesterday afternoon I dropped off the clutch parts at Ottawa Clutch and they will be ready this afternoon. Great service there.

They are using new organic friction material as the kevlar they have is too large for the little BMW disc. They will also reface both of the mating surfaces and check the spring pressure to make sure it's up to spec.

The total is a whopping $90 and it'll be as good as new as compared to buying the kit from BMW for over $800CDN

If the spring isn't right can the reheat it or something to make it right? Or will you have to replace that part?

Actually I never asked :huh

He figured it was fine just by looking at it but I'll know more this afternoon.