DR750 & DR800 owners thread

Today I dug a path through 90cm snow to get to my bike,shovelled an area around it to make a work space,and pulled the cover off.All was as it was in fall,still needs same stuff. I switched ignition on,lights and neutral lights came on fine,pushed deco lever and pushed ignition.Tiny sound,and all lights off and never to return.After a search here,looks like I should suspect loose or broken wires on the back of ignition.I'm going to check it out tommorow.I'd love to hear my bike run first time this year.The roads around here are not ready to ride on yet,but I'd love to get things ready a bit early.
Big plans this year for a WABDR ride,but I'd think to ride it heading south instead of north as its meant to be run.

Check the fuse first.

If the fuse is blown check for small critter damage to the wiring at some point probably around the starter solenoid or starter motor.

You might also have a peek at the airbox/airfilter. They love setting up winter housekeeping in those spaces.

Back in one piece

The really cool solution to whole airbox stuff on DR (something I did not have time to do to mine - it was next planned mod but sold bike) is to remove battery box. Relocate battery to front of bike where sump guard is. Move CDI and RR to frame head (just like they did for rally bike) and create very large airbox by using space free from all that clutter. You may be surprised but it is not hard job to do. I even pre-fitted new setup and god larger battery (16.5 Ah) but...as I said, sold the bike.
Using that metod will allow not only to run large airbox, preventing need for large opening. It will also allow to use one of standard flat filters like in cars making it cheaper in the long run.
Obviously there are lot of added benefit - designing box to allow easier carb removal and access to whole bits behind battery box and so on.
I do not remember how it is on 750, but on 800 not that much stuff (electrically) depends on airbox. Only considerable bit is running real thick wire to starter.

This is a really good idea. A large airbox is capable of making more power than a small one that has been opened up, especially if it has been set up as a properly tuned Helmholtz resonator. And the lithium iron batteries that have become available in recent years definitely help with regard to relocation.

Regards,

Derek

What the hell is a Helmholtz.....never mind. I'll look it up.

This thing has developed into something way more complicated than I expected. I'm always willing to learn but right now I just feel like running back into Papa Suzuki's arms and making everything standard again.

.......but where's the fun in that.


OK, Bluesman and Derek....ya got me thinking



Hey, maybe we can make the intake note sound like my Mac starting up.....possible?

Should that not be in Marlboro livery..............lol

Nope, too original to do anything like that to it

Nice bike.

One of the few UK bikes that I've seen without rust and fuzz growing out of all the fasteners.

I'm sure this takes quite a bit of preventive work riding over there.

Hi Tim
I guess you are mates with Ric ? He sorted my Marlboro decals, great bloke ! I think I've seen a vid of your bike being ridden in a field on your island.

G'day Ladder, i suggest running a bead of silastic over the sharp cut edge. sharp edges like that create all sorts of turbulence and vortices that will cause havoc the faster you go. i did this with mine and although my testing has not been as thorough as yours, I am happy with the results so far.
i think the ultimate setup is what Rob has done on the yellow bike, although it does require a set of flatslides to unleash the full potential that these bikes are capable of.
i do like bluesmans idea of moving the battery but i think you would need to assess the type of riding you do. i reckon i would end up smashing a battery if it was mounted in the bash plate, no matter how well it was protected.

Hey Simon are you comin on the weekend, or working..

Well, as for smashing battery - nope. If you look carefully location where battery can go can only be smashed if you actually destroy front forks. Pure geometry. Proven by Dakar bikes. I'd rather worry about good water isolation.

On the 41 /42 a small lithium battery would fit with a bit of jiggaling where the the rear tool box box is too.
they are soooo much lighter and have more cranking amps
Hows that triumph Blue are you still happy.

Has anyone tested on of those small Lithium batterys on DR BIG?

I have booked a Shorai Lithium cell for my DR after going through several lead cells over the years.

My is coming in early April. So stay tuned for the review.

i'm on call for the weekend. what time are you kicking off on saturday? might be able to squeeze half a day or so in and depart early.
(nevermind. i see on the other forum that kick off is 0900)

Yep and OK after 6 months so far , and cranks it gooooood.
If you let them get drained to arround 8 volts they say they won,t come back to life and so chuckem.

Howdy guys, whilst the replacement parts are on the way, perhaps it is a good time to ask the question on this forum too.

I had a rotor puller tool made, loosened it yesterday.

The problem: Rotor comes off with starter gear in one piece, and I can not remove both of them off the shaft (I think the starter gear gets stuck on the woodruff key). So now it is loose on the shaft, but I can't remove it because I can not separate them. How do they interconnect? Do I just need more force (I always regret using it later)?

The thing is that the manual doesn't say anything bout it, supposedly when using a rotor puller only the rotor part should come off, while the starter gear should remain in place:


I thought asking first and then breaking something is a better idea...

Good point.

Yep, I am totally ecstatic about Tiger 800XC, still think it is best bike I ever had.
BUT.
At this time I look from window and see about 20 cm of snow on ground and about 40 cm on my car parked outside, big wind, -4 and it still snowing.

Will spring ever come to Belgium