Can I replace the allen head one with a brake caliper style bleeder? If yes, it is the same part # for the caliper? Thanks. Doug
Pretty sure that it's the same vent screw (bleeder screw) as used on the front brakes (BMW # 34-21-2-330-310). That's what I have on order from BMW of Lynchburg so I'll know for sure on Monday when my order comes. $7.12. Repair manual says to reinstall the allen screw (grub screw) when you are done bleeding the system.
Please answer thiis on Monday. The black piece under the allen screw is a grub screw (spring loaded ball bearing). That whole piece needs to come off of the clutch line extention. My was on there with red loctite. Tough to get off. I had bought a 10 mm x 1 regular bleeder (NAPA) to replace the grub screw but I could never get it to make a good seal. I eventually just reinstalled the grub screw and would tighten and loosen it enough to get it leak out as I did the flush. Just let the fluid run on the ground. It worked, but next time I want a real bleeder screw in plce.
I'll report back on Monday or as soon as my order comes in. In the meantime, if you search this forum for "grub" you get most of the threads on bleeding brakes and clutches. I've read so many of them lately, I can't remember them all, but this one seems pretty comprehensive: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=317983 Respect the red loctite (apply heat). You don't want this! http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=462597&highlight=grub Edit: I was able to loosen the allen screw on both my clutch and right front brake okay, so I plan to leave the "fill adapter" (or whatever you call the fitting that the allen screw goes into) in place. I did get a lot of advice to remove it, but I didn't see the reason to risk breaking it.
Yes, I saw the first article before I started the clutch bleed, but my bleeder screw did not turn out as pretty as the one in the picture. My brake bleeders had already been replaced, so those were easy to bleed. I just want to get a bleeder for the clutch line that works without modificaiton. This is the first post I have ssen with a BMW part nubmer. Thanks for taking time to let us know about your part.
I stripped mine out when I did my engine swap. $2 and change at the local NAPA for regular bleed screw. The Grub screw assembly (with plug) was like $96. Kind of a no brainer for me...
This is from the GSpot FAQ. Also seems to confirm the part number of the bleeder screw. 4.14 Grub screw If you look carefully at the two calipers on your bike, you will notice that where you would suppose you could bleed the brakes, on the right side, there isn't a nipple but a much bigger black thing. That black thing is called a grub screw. Also, if you want to bleed your clutch, and locate the end of the clutch line underneath the luggage rack on the right-hand side, you will find a grub screw also there. First, what does it do? If you unscrew the small hex on the top of the grub screw, you will find threads into which you can screw a standard nipple. Inside the grub there is a small ball, and below the ball is the brake (or clutch) fluid. If you carefully screw a nipple into the grub, the end of the nipple will push down the ball, and you will be able to bleed the system. Second, what is it for? We believe BMW fills both the clutch and the brakes "bottom up". That is, the initial filling isn't done at the reservoir, but the flud is forced in from the "bottom". For that to work, you need a valve to hold the fluid, and that is what the little ball does. For you, during maintenance, the grub offers absolutely no functionality. Third: Can you remove both of them (brake and clutch)? Almost all do. The nice thing is that the bottom of the grub is identical to a nipple. That is, the caliper and end of the clutch line was designed to hold a nipple, but BMW inserted a grub instead. What most do is to remove the grub with a pair of pliers, and insert a standard nipple. The nipple that fits has P.No 34212330310. It is a standard M10 nipple. In 2008 it cost 6 euro from BMW (and comes with a rubber cap). However: The grub has been set with LockTite, and should be heated when unscrewed. There has been reports of grub screws breaking when unscrewed cold. Not many, but sufficient to warrant heating. Details in this photo.<!-- / message --><!-- sig --> __________________
Replaced my grub screw with a Speedbleeder--makes all the difference in the world. Wish I had been aware of the need for heat to remove it as I thought I was going to break it--luckily it came out in one piece.
My vent screw (bleeder screw) BMW # 34-21-2-330-310 came today and works in the factory fill adapter that is used on the right front brake and the clutch on my 2000 1150GS. Its tip starts to depress the spring-loaded ball in the factory fill adapter at about the same depth that its threads start to engage so I had to press it inward to get the threads started. Not difficult but I was glad to know about the spring-loaded ball in the factory fill adapter. It only has a few threads engaged when it seats so I think that is why the Repair Manual says to reinstall the allen screw when you are finished. If the factory fill adapter is removed from the right front brake or clutch then the same vent screw will install in its place and be just like the left front brake. I didn't do that this time but might do it at the next bleed. Still worried about the red loctite. The vent screws do come with the rubber cap so you don't need to order them separately.
My 05' R1150GSA does not have any type of grub screws on the brakes. They appear to be normal bleed screws. I know they have not been changed as I have known the bike since new. Anyone else notice this?
