There's a port on the underside of the carb just forward of the float bowl where the fuel screw resides. There's a brass plug in the port. The fuel screw is behind it. You need to get the plug out so you can remove the fuel screw. What most people do is carefully drill a hole in the plug so you can turn in a machine screw in the hole to get a grip on the plug and yank it out. The trick is to not drill too far and let the drill bit damage the screw recessed underneath the plug. Turn the carb sideways and you'll see the port. Maybe you'll be lucky and somebody will already have taken the plug out. But it's not really a big deal to get it out. If it's out, you'll see the slotted head of the fuel screw. If it's still there, you'll see the blank face of the plug.
You don't need to remove the carb...just take the throttle cables off and loosen the screws that hold the rubber manifold and the airbox on the carb and rotate the carb 90 degrees so you can remove the float bowl screws.
Thanks for your quick response! On one of the photographs they show the tip of fuel screw "tower" being "trimmed" with a hack saw blade. Is this how you did it? Is it possible to use a Dremel circular saw instead? Thanks again!
You could use a Dremel tool. Just make sure you don't get any metal dust in the carb...i.e. make sure there's a fuel screw installed to keep the particles out. I put the new jets in two DR200s...one needed the tower ground down a little and on the other, the Kientech screw fit without any grinding. I think I actually just used a file to take down the one that needed it a little.
Thanks again. I feel more confident now. I'll try to install the jet kit this coming weekend. I'll let you know how it turns out. Regarding the exhaust, I've decided to wait until next winter when I can't ride to send the exhaust to Kientech for the mod. However, if I happen to see an FMF Q4 at a good price in the meantime, I'll get that instead. Regards.
Fiddling around with the jets like this really isn't difficult at all, but if you've never done it before, you'll have questions...don't hesitate to ask. Edit: I should add that you'll be dealing with little springs and O-rings and so on. Make sure you're working in a well-lit place and you ought to lay down a clean sheet or something under the bike to catch dropped parts. In specific, I think I remember there's a tiny O-ring underneath the fuel screw that may or may not drop out when you remove the fuel screw. Then when you take off the fuel float, the fuel needle may drop off, etc. If I recall, the shaft that the fuel float hinges on is just a friction fit...you can very gently push or tap it out some way.
hey guys some people have been having problems with water intrusion into the air box after the mod to it.If you take off your seat youll se why any water that lands on the gas tank will floe down it between the seat and tank and right on to the top of the airbox. Im trying to figure out a better way to open up the air box maybee taking it out and opening up the area were the exsisting holes are on the side ?? and then adding some type of deflextor plate to the water roll down over it wont get sucked into the air box ?? something to think about when you do your mod ??
Is this like the bigger DRs in that this means there is a switch mounting screw loose inside the tranny waiting to cause death and destruction? Or is it just a harmless annoyance where removing the bulb will make it good to go? Thanks in advance. OK, the switch is external, so I guess it can't hurt anything. Is this common on the DR 200s?
I used to stretch the foot of an old pair of pantyhose, sprayed with silicone, over the airbox lid, which seemed to do a fairly good job of keeping crap out of that hole. Nothing's going to stop a submerged airbox from filling up, but I've yet to fill enough of the airbox that it affected running, without actually submerging the bike; just riding in rain never proved a problem. Draining a bit of water out of the bottom of the airbox never worried me -- it's just one of those things to check when you're lubing the chain.
I bought a 94 DR200 that was missing one front spoke. To get a replacement I would have had to order a whole set. When talking to the parts man we came across a place where we could get individual RM125 spokes. For $3 I thought I'd give it a try. It looks about the right length but, before I pull the wheel off, remove the tire, tube and stuff, does anyone know if this will work? Also, I changed the tube on the front wheel and must not have gotten the speedo set correctly since it has not worked since. Does anyone know do I just need to readjust at the hub or am I going to need a new speedo? Thanks
I don't know about the spokes, but just make sure you have the speedo cable correctly on the wheel and that it is tight on the speedo.
There is a ring with metal tabs that connects the speedo drive gear to the hub. It's pretty common for the tabs to get flattened if you put the wheel on without lining them up correctly. When the tabs are flattened, the speedo won't work. You should be able to take the front wheel off and straighten out those metal tabs to get the speedo working again.
Thanks so much. I was in a rush when I put the wheel back on and thought I screwed something up. Rode down the road and it was confirmed. Glad I do not need a new cable.
What Air filter are you guys running? Mine is old, and when i tried to remove it i rub a hole through it, about 1 cm by 1 cm. Now I need to order a new one. Would it be available at advance autoparts or something?
Nothing wrong with the OEM filter, just order one from your closest Suzuki dealer or online. You can buy an OEM or aftermarket UNI from BikeBandit http://www.bikebandit.com/uni-multi-stage-competition-air-filter?m=17387 No I have never seen any moto parts at advance auto etc.
MY battery went dead, coworker road it and put the key on park mode. I put in on the charger to start it but when the charger was turned off the bike would stumble and die. Shouldn't it be able to run without a battery?? push starting it Thanks for any info or mods i can do to fix this problem.
Sounds like the battery got damaged when it ran all the way down. Normally the bike should run when you push-start it, even on a flat battery.
hi guys im a new old 200 owner and posted my first to thumpers where the 200 guys wont see it can i repeat it here or is that bad behavior rob
Could someone please start there bike and disconnect the battery and see if it does the same as mine? The DR200 will idle "ok" when the battery is disconnected but a slight twist of the throttle it will studded and stumble like it's missing. Switching to hi-beam it makes a slight improvement which leads me to believe that the regulator isn't designed to work with out the battery so the ignitor (CDI) doesn't get 12 volts. The voltage dropped to 8 when disconnected. So my possible solution I will be testing is (given this isn't just an issue with a faulty regulator) I believe a 15v capacitor across the regulator red and black/w wires will solve the issue. What do you think?
