Hi all, this is my response to problems detailed/discussed in these 2 threads:- http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=422042 and http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=461827 Basically mine started running out of fuel, particularly when cool/cold and when rolling on throttle...sometimes during wheelies...also bumping over curbs causing stalls. I pulled my pump apart and while all filters were dirty, my issue was not with the sock filter OR pump but the post pump paper filter. It was severely blocked at 36,000k's and fell apart in my hands So, what to do...buy the ktm kit...overpriced and will clog/fall apart just as quick OR do something different. I decided to go with a modified paper( $2 ) filter post pump and an external efi car filter ($30) mounted in front and above the air box. My thinking is that doing it this way I can replace the small $2 filter every 10,000k's and the bigger filter every 30k. Here's what I did - went to local shop and asked for a car efi filter that suited my requirements. - found a carbied inline plastic/paper filter that I could cannibalize for the paper filter (the paper filter inside the plastic must be at least 35mm long and a maximum diameter of 32mm) - 2mtrs of efi fuel line (8mm or 5/16") - 10 efi worm drive hose clamps. Step 1. Keep(or remove) the off centre end plate from the oem post pump filter (ppf) Its the right one in the pics above. Get your $2 plastic filter and cut the plastic off and get the paper filter out. Measure 26-28mm from the terminated end and mark with a pen and cut with stanley knife so you get this Grab the OEM endcap with the off-centre hole and place on filter like this Which looks like this when installed Now I chose not to seal the oem plate to the new cut filter. Reason being is 3-fold 1 - Alot of sealants, while they say they are impervious to petrol are NOT and will break apart and end up in the injectors. 2 - As I am using an external filter, any fuel that bleeds under this non-sealed portion will get picked up there. (This filter is mainly for the FPR.) 3 - If I had sealed it...I would have had to use something called DEVCON, which apparently is a 2-part epoxy that sets hard enough to grind. I was then worried that I would not be able to recover the OEM end plate, with the offcentre inlet, so that it could be used with another $2 paper filter the next time. So, here the filter I bought Its a Daihatsu model...RYCO part # is Z520 or other ref RFF-106 I slightly bent the inlet/outlet pipes for better clearance and mounted here So basically after that I ran 2 runs of fuel line up to the filter. The quick disconnect on the TB side was removed and and a brass barbed joiner was installed, and then joined to the fuel line connected to the outlet from the fuel filter. The disconnect was then put on the other fuel line (once cut to the correct length) and connected to the pump as per normal. Here's a shot of the glove box above Unfortunately I didn't get any decent photos of the fuel line running...but basically it follows the bottom frame rail beside the crankcase/airbox breather, with the fuel line disconnect coming out at exactly the same place as it does stock. So, from a point of view of installing/removing the tank there is exactly no difference...it actually is hard to tell that it's been modified. So anyways, hows it go....works great. Shawty
The placement of the filter in front of the snorkel was not my first choice. Originally, I was going to mount it behind the battery where, on a 950, the original pump goes. The only reason I didn't, was that the filter I bought, was just that little bit too large, to fit between the bashplate and the battery box/underside of the motor. So, if you were able to find a smaller diameter in-line car efi filter then you could do it where I originally wanted to and still keep the pre-filter. I will actually search for a smaller dia one next time and run it that way...I was just in a hurry as it was my daily ride and didn't have the time to take it back and search for a smaller one. Shawty
You can go with one of these as well, stainless filter element and there are a number of different angles you can get the inlets bits for (screw on parts to attache the fuel line too). And it is smaller in diameter. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-230101/
My filter after 5,000 miles (Started feeling problems from 3,000 miles). :huh Unfortunately, the new parts was not readily available. I had to wash it and reuse it. Here's how it looked afterwards,... The bike has been running well since, till next time...
Here's a new twist on an old great idea. I chose to install a small fuel filter inside the airbox, thus eliminating the need for an additional hole. This fix cost me $11.00. I did re-use the teabag filter after a thorough cleaning in multiple cleaners. The one that appeared to work the best was the Electrical Contact Cleaner. The parts included: 3ft of 5/16in automotive fuel line (1) generic fuel filter (1) 5/16in barded butt connector (4) 1/2" gear clamps. (1) small zap strap Some important points to note, I zap strapped the setup to one of the clips at the rear of the air box so that it eliminated the chance of interfering with the throttle linkage. Also I ground the sharp corners off the clips so they wouldn't puncture the gas line. I'm still hoping some resourceful soul will find a low cost replacement for the teabag filter.
So... you replaced a 10 micron high pressure filter with an 80 micron filter that's designed for 5psi, and now you've got it running inside your airbox at 51 psi? Might I make a suggestion... don't ride your bike. It's a bomb! .
+1 did the same, but with a fuel filter for a FI car http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=16200915&postcount=138
What he said, might last a week, might last a month, might last for long enough to forget about it, but you are WAY exceeding the design pressure of that filter and it simply is not fine enough for injection systems.
on top of that... the universal 5/16 fuel hose is not designed to hold 51PSI, it too is low pressure stuff like the fuel filter that you installed.... the real EFI fuel hose is thicker and designed to handle the pressures. anyone have a light.. I can't find my matches... FYI, IMO, don't start/ride the bike as configured.... you most likely will not enjoy the outcome of high pressure gasoline being sprayed all over a hot engine in a location that would be almost impossible to access to extinguish. :eek1
