ElkElama Suspension (http://www.elkasuspension.com/) now offers a rear shock for the DR650. TheFrenchCanadian shared his review of it, and how it stacks up against the Cogent- http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=15349248&postcount=45699
The front end of a YZ426 will also fit up nicely to the DR frame. There are three major challenges with converting to usd forks; the triple, front axle and brake caliper. And three less demanding items; speedo, headlight and ignition switch. Surprisingly the DR triple stem is larger in diameter than the YZ (30mm vs 28mm), a problem easily solved by leaving the stock DR races in the frame and using the YZ bearings on the new triple. The YZ triple is a little longer than the DR so you will also have to come up with a spacer of about 12mm to get everything to fit snugly. The DR uses a smallish 17mm front axle while the YZ and many other dirt oriented bikes use a 20mm axle. The easiest solution is to simply mount up a matching front wheel to the forks you have chosen. Last item on the list is the brake caliper. Fortunately the DR uses a common design that will bolt right up to the YZ and I believe other models as well. The stock YZ rotor is 250mm vs the 290mm of the DR. An aftermarket EBC oversize rotor with mounting bracket measuring 280mm is readily available. Most of the usd forks have more travel (11"-12" vs 10.2") than the DR so the front end may be a little long after mounting everything up. Easily solved by sliding the forks slightly above the top triple and/or when rebuilding the shocks slimming down the bushings to lose a little height. Picture below of '01 YZ426 front end on my '03 DR. Since I was planning to convert from stock speedo to vapor no issues there. And rather than try to mount the stock headlight that I never liked anyway now is the time to draw up a plan for something new.
I bought a set of adjustable links (dog bones) from Soupy's Performance. They typically sell lowering links, but I had them make a set of links to raise the bike. You have to contact them directly to have them made. Ran me about $30 more than the lowering links for the "custom" work. I'll post results when I get them installed (minimum and maximum seat height).
Bummer, this link doesn't work anymore. I'll try to find the info. Thanks to NordieBoy: http://www.advrider.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=188086&stc=1&d=1221081783
Is there any better bolt-on, drop-in suspension than Ricor intimators and rear shock for an aggressive novice rider?<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
since buying my DR in May i've put on 5000 slab miles and i've always hated the wallowy unstable turn in of the DR forks. i got used to it in the twisties but i still hated that millisecond of disconnected about-to-washout feeling. did a fork swap and the wallow is gone, you turn in and feel it the entire way, no more unsettled moments. you can upgrade the internals all you want and add on braces & whatknot but you're still throwing money at a weak streetbike fork. i used KYBs because that's what i had, not the most technologically advanced forks, but they work way better than the stock boingers.
basketcase sent me a PM with the frame paint match. he said it was an exact match for the silver frame. touch-up: Duplicolor NGFM360 - 2-1 Scratch Fix - Ford Dark Shadow Gray http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/DPL0/NGFM360.oap?mn=Duplicolor&mc=DPL&pt=N1143&ppt=C0255 http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...hByPartNumber=true&itemIdentifier=539040_0_0_ http://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-Paint-Ngfm360-Shadow-Touch/dp/B000ALJ3YS 8oz spray: BFM0360 http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/DPL0/BFM0360.oap?ck=Search_N1147_-1_-1&pt=N1147&ppt=C0253 http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...gray-Perfect-Match-paint?itemIdentifier=59677
Stock fork springs are pretty soft. You mention elsewhere you're considering a Safari tank, and I expect the usual loads that RTW motorcycles end up carrying (extra water, fuel, camping gear, racks, luggage, etc.). Unless you're a featherweight, stiffer front springs might be a necessity.
With the IMS tank and 8kg rear spring, it'd be sweet. Safari tank and you'd want .46 or so front springs too.
I'm 190lbs and don't have gear weight yet, but assuming a max of 75-100lbs. Thought I'd split the difference between ,46 and .50, and just go with the .48. The intiminators gotta make up for some of that, so concerned the .50's or higher would be too stiff? I'm no enduro rider and am really just looking for something thats not gonna bottom out, will handle the load, and go the distance. Would the .50's be a must given my weight and possibly a Safari tank? Also, I'm 6ft with a 32" inseam, and it seems the DR's are preferred by the shorter folks because of the lower ride height. How much added height am I looking at with different springs, intiminators, a cogent rear, and a Sergant seat? Think I'll still need the lowered pegs and bar raisers? Thanks for your replies.
That won't raise the height a lot but it'll ride much better. You'll still need the risers (I'm using a pair of tall Zeta SX bars instead) and footpeg kits to get the ergos better.
I went with the Cogent because: he uses the stock Suzuki body which has the resevoir (more oil, more cooling, longer service life), has rebound damping, he has a presence here on ADVrider and answers questions directly. DR650 Shock Rebuild: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=301968
Can some one tell me what shim stack comes standard in the intiminators for the dr650, as I have a set out of a V Strom 650 that also has 43mm forks that I want to fit to the DR And has any body tryed changing the shims? Cheers Peter
Hopefully the internal diameter of the forks is the same. My TT350 has 41mm forks and Intiminators for the 41mm KLR forks wouldn't fit. Triumph Scrambler ones did though. The DR ones come with 2x0.010" and 1x0.015" If anything, I'd go slightly lighter if you're more off-road biased. Say, maybe 1x0.015" + 1x0.010" Depends on the rest of the holes and inertia valve too. What shims are in the ones you've got?