Airhead parts - the dark secrets revealed

This is a guide for buying parts for your bike cheaper than paying out the nose at the dealer.
Pm or email me if I miss one of your additions and i'll continually edit the first post (this one) to
keep it as a quick reference guide.

NOTE: Some of these tips involve non-oem parts and thus, use them at your own risk. These are simply options passed to us by our members.

Also, on the same vein, IBMWR has some help as well here: http://www.ibmwr.org/otech/partsubs.html
(thx RandyB)

Frugally yours,
Datchew.
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BATTERIES!!!

I would check out the TOYO brand batteries from www.beiterbattery.com
the skinny /5 style battery is a perfect fit on the BMWs. 12v20p
I bought one 2 years ago and it is awesome!!!
Especially at $40.00 plus shipping!!!!!!!!!
Holy crap, it fits and works perfect!!!!
(thx to Wirewrkr)

Ignition Coil: You can use a harley coil part # 31614-83A as a replacement. I don't know the date ranges on your airheads for this. Picture is here:
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v147/talk2frog/?action=view&current=harleycoil.jpg

Also, I have personally used this coil for 12k miles on my 89 GS before I switched to points. No problems. - Datchew
(thx to Lornce)

Carburetors: Rebuild Kits http://www.eubmw.com/
and it's $27.95 for two kits, including shipping
(thx to Solo Lobo) (quoted shipping price as of 2-24-07 in USA)

$0.99 O-rings package on the "Help" aisle of O'Reilly's (or similar). Two packs will rebuild your Airhead carbs with some left over.
Or, harbor freight has a 225 pack of nitrile o-rings for $3.99.
(thx to RandyB)

Real Gaskets makes Nitrile float bowl gaskets (and many other gaskets) for Airheads... prices are cheaper than OEM BMW stuff and it'll last nearly forever. You can order direct from: http://www.realgaskets.com/files/motorcycle.htm
(thx to TheDirtyKnacker)

NAPA Oil Pressure Switch OP6065 (C$16) is a direct replacement and works fine. Advrider inmate tested and approved.
***Datchew's note: Make sure the one you get is not a tapered fit. A 66 vw uses a tapered fit oil pressure switch and that will not fit properly, and other VW switches have different pressure ratings printed on them. Stephen says this one is not tapered. ***
(thx to StephenB)

Also Duralast PS158 just paid 7 bucks at auto zone.[/COLOR]
(thx to TxDieHart)

Standard part number PS177
(thx to DavidS)

1 5/8 hose to make the connection from carb to head intake for 32mm carbs. However, Randy said his failed after 2 months. Possible that the material won't withstand the petroleum products. Advised to be a roadside repair only.
(thx to RandyB)

PISTON RINGS
Info about alternative piston rings can be found here:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4342773&postcount=35
(thx to Lornce)

Piston rings gets a second vote:
Motorworks sent me Goetze pistons rings, P/N 08-700900-00 for std bore '77 1000cc barrels (iron lined). Goetze is a trademark of Federal Mogul Corp. This complements Lornce's information on his Volkswagen cast rings, I believe.
(thx to StephenB)

Grant Piston Rings part # P1449.000 work great in R100 engines, so far.
(thx to RandyB)

a cork will serve as a timing hole plug if you lose yours but don't use any of that :ymca
stuff like Stagehand did! (HA!)
(thx to Stagehand)

You can get a "beefier" diaphragm from stromburg carbs as replacement for the bings.
The carbs in question are the CD150 and CD175 for the 32mm and 40mm Bings.
From Moss Motors, the part numbers are 365-320 and 366-040. They are $20.10 each for the CD150 and $3.95 for the CD175.
(thx to Bam Bam)

The Panasonic battery LC-X1228P can be purchased here: (they keep raising price... updated 12-6-07)
http://www.wholesalebatteries.us/re.../All-vendor/12-0-Volt-Batteries/LC-X1228P.htm
(thx to Datchew)

As a reminder, the pricey OEM turn signal flasher on the old airheads like my /7 can be swapped out for a "Tridon Stant" 12 volt 3 terminal #550 thermal flasher available for under $5 from any auto parts store.

The new flasher will have a "P" an "L" and an "X"...you want to plug the wires from the new socket into the existing flasher socket...match the "P" to the black/white wire (your dash light indicator)...match the "L" to the green/yellow wire (the "load"...i.e. the turn signals)...and, the "X" to the green/black wire (+12V supply). The fourth prong (that the new flasher won't have) is brown...for ground...the new flasher doesn't need a ground.
(thx to BMWHD)

The starter relay can be fabbed from basic parts. Just look at the link.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=6247221&postcount=96
(Thx to DucatiPete)

Points and Condensers
70-78 bmw uses one set of points, the 79-80 models uses another. The latter is the sames as a VW aircooled performance disributor called the "050"
the sripes on the wire denote a stiffer spring.
(Thx to Wirewrkr)

The Points and condenser for a 1979-1980 beancan that Wirewrkr mentions there are explained in this LINK
(Thx to Datchew)
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.... under $50 to replace $140 OEM:
Borg Warner R588
Neihoff WA 709 (Echlin, different shape)
NAPA VR503 (short harness and connector instead of pins, but works)
(Source: http://boxerworks.com/phorum/read.ph...38403&t=238403 )
(Thx to StephenB)

Harley sealed battery for evo era softail (90's) works fine in the older airhead battery boxes. Same width and height, narrower by about 1/2". Same neg/pos orientation. More CCA's! Maybe $85 nowdays.
(Thx to RoadRage)

For an 87 R80, at Carquest, their p/n Ry116 is a direct replacement for the main relay on this Airhead and it was less than $15!
How did I find out? By being an airhead: LINK
The bmw stock relay is p/n 61321244411
(Thx to co g30)

A list of replacement part#'s to xref for Hall Sensor for "bean can" advance cannister.
LINK
(Thx to Frank Warner for the data and StephenB for the link)

Replacement rubber bumpers for under seats and perhaps under toolboxes can be found from Napa. See link for part#
LINK
(Thx to SOLO LOBO)

I'm for it as I just picked up a 89 R100GSPD and I'm in the mood.

No doubt a good idea, but isn't that what "Tips & Tricks" is for?

Um, yeah. I guess I thought that thread was more for "how to's" and stuff and not really parts acquisition, but i think you're right. I'll add the two things to that thread and we can let this one go to the manure pile.

Brainfart on my part.

free oil pan with Harley parts

I am with datchew on this one. I think of tips and tricks as maintenance, and what we really seem to need are the cheapest and most reliable vendors to be listed. That way, many noobs, like me, would be able to find info on the best places to acquire much needed parts and info. Think of how many repetitive questions could be avoided on the acquisition of both the necessities and the farkles... just my .02

.99 o rings on the "Help" aisle of O'Reilly's (or similar). Two packs will rebuild your Airhead carbs with some left over.

well, I guess maybe this one's gonna float afterall.

I got a few requests (ok...2 ) to continue to separate it from "tips and tricks" so here goes.

I'm with ya, datchew!!!!! That's a Great Idea! You could also post things like Crossover #rs for Oil Filters, Air Filters, etc.!! Again, Good Idea and I'll be watching this thread!


Boojum!

Like this? http://www.ibmwr.org/otech/partsubs.html

Roger That!

If there's a cheap, lazy way to do something, I probably know it.

Any old o-ring is gasoline proof, right?

20,000 miles and 16 months later, they seem to be. Since I rebuild, to include diaphragms (Bing recommendation) and throttle shaft every two years, I'm happy. And yes, I use BMW diaphragms.

Real Gaskets makes Nitrile float bowl gaskets (and many other gaskets) for Airheads... prices are cheaper than OEM BMW stuff and it'll last nearly forever. You can order direct from: http://www.realgaskets.com/files/motorcycle.htm

Yup, that makes it count.

I have tried several of these gaskets....with terrible results. The torque values needed to properly seat these gaskets to where they won't leak will warp valve covers and oilpans. Haven't used the floatbowl gaskets, but I always have a ton of those because I rebuild my carbs pretty frequently. I'm all for cutting costs by using cheaper parts, but not if it's gonna fuck the bike up. My understanding is that Real Gaskets started making seals for Lycoming and Continental aircraft motors.... How would you like to be at 12,000 ft and have all your oil piss out a valve cover? I'm spooked just thinking about it. Good seals are cheap insurance.

I've had good results with Real Gasket's stuff. No problems at all. They aren't cheaper from the manufacturer, but then again one is all you need.

You can warp valve covers? I figured the fasteners would strip too easy to allow that.

I wonder if maybe they deform with too much torque. Maybe they require less.