Paying California fuel prices to feed those things must put you into the cold sweats. $100 a tank to feed my F150 is bad enough, I couldn't imagine feeding it in California.:eek1
I installed a larger rear tank on my Powerstroke... so now it has a 19 gallon front and a 38 gallon rear. Filling that beast up makes you're wallet hurt! Over $200 easy. And that is part of the reason that I commute on the XR. That, and Oregon State charges $200 a year for a regular parking pass, but only $65 a year for the motorcycle pass. And the motorcycle parking is WAY better! I still love it that I can get 19-20 mpg out of this thing when I'm driving all freeway down to SoCal to visit the in-laws though:
I have a 110-link drive chain installed with my 14T/48T sprocket combination. Don't be surprised if you discover you might wish to remove 2 links from your longer drive chain. No, you don't need to do anything special; you can't screw it up. The rear sprocket will automatically adjust the drive chain so it is evenly distributed. The chain slipper roller will work great for you, PD. However, I don't recommend putting rollers in the chain guide. The impact from the drive chain will eventually cause the plastic chain guide to crack at the bolt holes for the rollers. :huh The stock setup is best for the chain guide, unless you ditch that slider completely, and allow the chain to exit the bottom of the chain guide. I've been riding my bike for over 15,000 miles with the chain guide slider removed. I haven't throw off the drive chain, so I guess I'm not riding hard enough to need to contain the drive chain within the chain guide. Maintaining the drive chain and rear wheel is much easier when the drive chain can exit the bottom of the chain guide. Spud
The two F350 crew cabs (one has a 11'4" camper) and F100 are parked round the corner. Love playing musical trucks on street sweeping days.
Any chance anyone has a clutch kit or even good used clutch plates laying around? I've been commuting on my Vstrom for the last 2 months and today when I rode the XR, the clutch slipped when I gunned it in 4th to pass a 4 wheeler on my way home. I tested again in 4th and 5th to be sure and just like my old VW, when the engine hit torque peak in a high gear the doggone clutch slipped. There is good slack in the cable, so thats not it. We were planning a 6 day Mexico run, leaving on the 26th, so this really bites. I'll call all the shops in Austin, S.A. and Houston tomorrow, but I bet nobody keeps it in stock. 35000 miles so I guess I cant bitch too much, But I really wanted to do this trip.
Pretty sure Rockymountainatv.com is having a free 2-day shipping day today... and the Tusk clutch kit is only $50 from them. http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p...sk-Clutch-Kit-With-Heavy-Duty-Springs?ref=gmc
Looks like Rocky Mountain has the slider available for $10, so I'll probably just pick up a new one. I'll get it all adjusted and decide whether I want to cut two links off the chain or not.
You beat me to the punch, BF. Several people have made good reports on the Tusk clutch kit, and you can't beat the customer service from Rocky Mountain ATV/MC. Spud
Is RM ATV/MC selling the OEM, chain guide slider for $10, or the slider for their specific chain guide? The RM slider won't fit the Honda chain guide. Spud
It's listed under their Honda OEM parts for $10. Did you remove the whole chain guide? Or just the slider?
I wasn't sure RM ATV/MC was still selling OEM parts. However, I found the link. The chain guide slider is selling for $9.66. I kept the chain guide installed; it helps to prevent sticks and other objects from getting caught between the drive chain and the rear sprocket. The chain guide slider encloses the bottom of the chain guide, and helps to prevent the drive chain from departing the rear sprocket. However, many motorcycles don't enclose the drive chain within the chain guide. Honda put a slider in the chain guide because the XR650L has a lot of suspension travel, and a very aggressive rider might ride hard enough to throw the drive chain off the rear sprocket. I don't ride hard enough to worry about that scenario, so I decided to ditch the chain guide slider. I have since ridden over 15,000 miles without having the drive chain depart the rear sprocket. However, as always, YMMV (your mileage might vary). Removing and installing the rear wheel is much easier when the drive chain can exit the bottom of the chain guide. However, if one jumps the bike and rides very aggressively, it's far safer to spend the $10, and keep the slider installed in the chain guide. Spud
19 to 20 mpg really? What kind of speeds do you drive to get that? I keep my cars and trucks for along time. I have a 99 ford 150 with 198,000 miles. Ill probably keep it for another 4 to 5 years till I pay off my house. I am planning to get a full size diesel something next. I would be ok with something that will get me 20 mpg. Hell I am hoping I get buried in my next truck.
You will still get free shipping if your order totals $99. Order some sprockets, a drive chain, a tire, oil filters, air filter oil, et cetera, and you can still get free shipping. P.S. I like your signature. Spud
Yes, I remember several people installed the Tusk Clutch Kit, and liked it. However, I don't remember who they are. If you search this thread you can probably find their reports. Spud
I just installed one in Sept. I test it out in Moab Utah with a 1000 mile trip in 6 days. It works as well as the oem one to me. I also have a Tusk clutch kit on a 1996 cr250. That has worked well for 4 years now.
Hey guys, how much of a difference will an XR's only stage one hotcam make on an otherwise internally stock motor? The specs are- INTAKE LIFT: 8.8 mm INTAKE DURATION: 258° EXHAUST LIFT: 8.8mm EXHAUST DURATION: 258° I'm not sure what the stock lift/duration is....just wondering if the hotcam would make enough of a diff to be worth it money and labor wise? And how much low end, if any, would I give up? Thanks in advance for any feedback
