i began the main part journey 5 months ago in Argentina. The big one, one year south america up through central hopefully getting to alaska. I quit my job, packed the bike (F800GS) and haven't looked back. GPS broke in Argentina, got it fixed in Panama, navigating South America (especially cities) with crappy maps was a ball ache!! I have only just got on ADV, having met and ridden with so many amazing members through south and central america i thought it was time to say thanks for the advice, , help with all the repairs and stories and time to share mine. http://panamericatravels.blogspot.com/ the bike: BMW F800GS damage to date: - 2x fuel pumps - 1x chain and sprockets - 4x sets of tyres - 2x lights - 1x auxiliary light - 2x auxiliary fuel cans - front forks (straightened) - screen - handlebars (bent) - number plate - pannier bars - 2x front bearings - 1x rear bearing - 1x stand - 1x front spindle http://panamericatravels.blogspot.com/ Day 124 - Semuc Champey - Flores Distance travelled (by bike): 13,400 Leaving Semuc Champey as the sun rose i opted to take the road less traveled (a single lane, all gravel, this was done against the local guides advice). After 10km i started to regret my decision, but been stubborn i carried on. The fog closed in, the drops from the edges got larger and the gravel became looser. As the bike drifted around the corners, despite the grin on my face i had to slow down, petrified that one slip and i'd be over the edge (so close at times), especially when i met oncoming vehicles. After 2 hard hours the gravel/stone/mud the road surface transformed to newly laid tarmac. The road to Flores cuts through the agricultural heartland of Guatemala. The scenery changing from dramatic mountains to flat plains. When the road stopped and a river i was directed to a small ferry, having crossed the river it was an easy ride to Flores. Just as i arrived the first drops of rain started falling. the fog on the mountain road http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QLmo7IvcteA/TcsFlSzwbeI/AAAAAAAAA94/uRGBxBu0mXk/s1600/DSCN6553.jpg pulled over to regroup having had a very close encounter with the edge http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-z-j-fg_JZ6E/TcsFuVc1-NI/AAAAAAAAA-A/Q6OI068bftg/s1600/DSCN6557.jpg it only just supported the bike, but had to be done http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tZFYN2247wc/TcsF5wNXc7I/AAAAAAAAA-M/N_66vNDkqFY/s1600/DSCN6567.jpg back on the tarmac http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yiHRR9VgQOQ/TcsF9eJ_3FI/AAAAAAAAA-Q/Go0sOv9Gwes/s1600/DSCN6570.jpg on the ferry http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0Anr2bK2YSg/TcsGBmkHMCI/AAAAAAAAA-U/PWmlB22A7QU/s1600/DSCN6572.jpg
Having looked around tikal i decided to get to the belize border early, the road to the boarder is practically straight, alternating between gravel and asphalt. No worries. The exit out of Guatemala took less than 5 minutes. Entering into Belize, my passport was stamped and i headed to the customs desk to get the bike imported. I disturbed the woman at the desk eating her morning fix of fried chicken, she didn't look happy, but really didn't need to eat it, see was already twice my size! When asked how long i was staying in Belize i said 'about 10 days', she looked at be and told me 'i make the rules, you have 3 days'. 3 F*cking days, thanks sweetheart! Leaving customs i had to buy the mandatory insurance ($10US per day), now feeling pretty glad i didn't get the import visa for 10 days. There are road to Belize city was, like most roads in central america littered with speed bumps, most of which were signed, some not. I arrived at Belize city an hour and half later. God its getting hot, and from what i've been told its only going to get hotter as i head north.
having left Belize i have been hammering through Mexico. Stopping to see the sights and take a breather. Copper Canyon was amazing... I was told of a mining road that connected Creel to Los Mochis, deciding to take this track rather than follow any map i set off... One of the hardest days i've ridden in a long long time, mentially and physically. I decided to take the mining road from Creel to Los Mochis, i was told it was possible on the motorbike and should take about 8 hours. At dawn i left Creel, Twisting through the mountains and around the canyon as the sun rose. When i got to San Rafael the fun began, the beginning of the mining road. The road was dirt, narrow and a majority of the time seemed like it was just stuck on the side on the mountain, with no railings or warning signs for the corners. For the first 4-5 hours i was really enjoying the drive, lots of dirt, no other people, amazing scenery. At about the 5th hour the road turned into sand, in places really heavy (not so much fun on a fully loaded bike). Trying to turn through the hairpin bends began to get tough, with the weight on the bike the front wheel was slipping and if i applied the throttle the back tended to slide, not good when the drop is about 700 metres. I found this really tough going, with no direct route the road would twist down the mountain into the valley and back up the other side. Along the straight i decided on the more speed approach (easier to drive in sand going quickly), whilst around the corners it was no speed and lots of concentration. Throughout the journey today the scenery was stunning and everyone i passed waved to me. Whenever i stopped if someone was passing they would stop and ask if i was ok and did i need any help. After 7 hours i was tempted to push the bike down the side of the mountain and slide after it, thinking this had to be quicker that taking all the corners. Thoroughly fed up, getting incredibly hot and my concentration slipping i pulled over, after a drink and something to eat i was feeling better. As i was packing up a truck stopped and asked if i was ok and where was i going, yes i was ok, i'm heading to Loa Mochis. He replied that the asphalt road started in 5 miles, i should be in Los Mochis in an hour. I was so relieved to hear that the road turn to asphalt i could have hugged him, spirits lifted i headed on. http://panamericatravels.blogspot.com/
been a while since i wrote, mainly due to problems with the laptop and just loving still riding. Getting into the US was harder than expected, exporting from mexico and the 3 hour search of the bike at the US border. Having ridden in south and Central america for the last 6 month i found it fantastic when i got to the states, i could speak english (and be understood, most of the time)!! Amazing riding, up route 1 to san francisco, through napa, over through yosemite and over the pass, into death valley and onto vegas...stunning scenery all the way Just had a huge overhaul, new tyres, sprockets, chain, oil, coolant etc. all geared up for the drive up through the middle of the US into Canada and onto alaska. Been english i had no idea how hot it got, people did tell me, but you don't believe until you experience it...wow Had a few day off the bike to me my parents in Vegas and do a small road trip in the car, nice change, but still racking up 2000 miles in a week and so many time i wished i was on the bike. setting off again tomorrow... http://panamericatravels.blogspot.com/
Hey Joe, great to meet you in Kalispell at the Econolodge. Nice write up on your blog. I'm still reading your great blog and admiring the photos. I look forward to meeting you again and hosting you when you come through Quesnel, B.C. on your way north! Danielle
thanks Danielle, great to meet you too, as i said before your inspirational to many of us. quick question - is there anywhere close to you to get tyres? mine are not going to get the miles i hoped! cheers, joe
Thought I'd seen you in a ride report before. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=15288785&postcount=497
Hey Joe good to see you are finally on ADV. It was nice meeting you down in Medellin at Albert's place. Goodluck on the rest of your trip North man! Wish you could have stayed around a little longer
cheers john, cheers for the pics. you back in the US now? was hoping to come round your way, but decided to stick to the west of the US. going to be getting up to Alaska earlier than i thought, so might not need the ice studs, though it would be an epic mission to try and drive the ice road fully loaded. when i drive back though the States will swing by for beers.
Jose! que paso amigo? Estaba bien encontrarte en Colombia. Espero que los forks estan bien toda via. salud, Vin.
Glad you stayed out West on the way, little more scenic for sure but if you come back down here I can take you for some nice riding, but you better hurry, I left my bike down in Cali for our summer here to come make some more money and I will head back down in late September or October See you around amigo and keep me posted and we'll see what we can do about those beers
Hola Vin, you all finished now and back at work - they took you back? - am still struggling with the spanish!!! After Alaska am heading back down into the states, to check out some more of California, washington etc. If your around will try to hook up for some beers, ride etc. cheers, joe
I'm in school in Anchorage now. Been pretty busy, but if youre through here I might be able to meet up for a beer or 7.
vin, i'm from the UK, you'll have to narrow down which anchorage! - sounds good, have no route or plans, schools always easier after a few beers