Anyone encounter this issue? I have the large Safari tank and the mounting tab on the frame top tube has broken off on the LHS. I'm thinking of welding a nut to a piece of RHS of correct width, then welding or tek screwing (im a lousy welder) that to the frame. Not sure what else I can do; even thought of drilling through the frame and bolt straight through from one side to the other. Any suggestions / work arounds?
When adjusting a MCCT do you just screw it in till the louder clack clack is gone or go about 3/4 extra turn till the little clicks are gone also?
not meaning to high jack thread,but need some advice.Installed new 39mm flat slide pre jetted from tt,bike runs much better until you have gone about a mile and half,clutch it to stop and she dies stone.dead Bike will not start again for a couple of hours.Checked the pet cock, plenty of fuel to carb
Look at what you just did to the bike when you replaced the carb, techno boy. It's probably something that you inadvertently changed while doing the work. Pinched fuel line? Pinched vent line? Loose carb mounting, causing a vacumn leak? Something plugging the air inlet, rag? etc-etc. Ruling all that out, it sounds like an electrical problem, getting worse when the bike gets hot. although DRZs are not known for electrical issues unless it has a lot of miles on it.
Rusty cager, I adjust mine until the "little clicks" are just barely gone. As soon as it starts clicking again I do it again. My theory is that too much tension can be just as bad as too much slap.
I'm looking into modding my 02 DRZ E to race and do fast single track and some gnarlier two-track that is extremely rough. We have no desert or extremely fast terrain here, but I may do a hare scramble on occasion which are usually fast and rough. Most of the time I'll be trying to ride nasty single track/extreme rocks as fast as a 50 yr old out of shape guy can. I added heavier straight rate springs front and rear for my weight of 230lbs, and liked the result when I am riding 90% or more, but when I back it down to 60-85%, it is harsh and the rear swaps on hard/square edged/planted root/rock hits. The rear swapping occurs without much warning, and due to the weight of the bike can get nasty fast. Strangely, I am faster on the DRZ than on most race bikes such as KTM XCWs, WRs, CRFs, etc. I've tried "racier" bikes but end up back on a DRZ. Anyone try progressive springs for this type of riding, perhaps progressive but one stage stiffer than recommended? For instance, I'm 230lbs, but springs for a 250lb rider? By the way, once I go all the way with a "race" DRZ, I'll probably never DS it again, I'll just buy another S model for that. Even with the mods I have done to make the E model work at speed, each change hurts on-road riding. I had hoped to build a do it all bike, but it only partially works. The more weight I take off helps off road, but hurts on road. Just my thoughts. I have had lighter racier bikes and used them for DS but a stock DRZ-S is far better. I like at least 300lbs for pavement riding. Not supermoto mind you, just general Dual Sport and Adv.
Drop the rear ride height to the max race sag, and loosen the high speed compression knob to the max out setting. The rebound may be too fast for the new rear spring so tighten that up 25% of where you are now. That should give you a decent baseline to get the issue you are having under control. I cant recall what max race sag is, or what the maximum soft high speed setting is off of the top of my head. Someone else will have to chime in on that.
Just purchased this 2002 E!!! Very excited. Had a DRZ on my mind for a few years now (love my DR650, but need something smaller for the rough stuff) and this appeared today so I jumped on it. http://advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=23971962&postcount=10989 Gonna need some help getting up to speed and mods needed please. I know it's gonna need some work, but the price was very right. Anyone in Santa Fe/ABQ coming up to Denver in the near future??? PM me if so. Anyone have a yellow side cover to sell? Thanks, Bill
I am having similar issues -- gas runs out around the float bowl-- gasket is bad, but also possibly the float needle etc... where is the best place to get the kit that has all that in it?
The spark plug may be wet with fuel. Try taking it out and making sure it's dry or installing a new one right when the problem happens. Regards, Derek
What should "all that" consist of, i.e. what would you like the kit to contain at minimum (besides the already mentioned float bowl gasket and float needle)? Regards, Derek
Having it too tight is my concern as well. How you said is how how I had it but after a ride it started ticking again so tightened it another flat tonight.
Hi Folks Anyone familiar with the Power Sonic battery PT7B-4 ? I put a new one in last April had a good season riding no problem then for winter storage I charged it with a trickle charger once a month in a heated garage for the 5 month of winter we got this season (thats another story). The light on the charger went green from orange the first time back in Dec last but after that it always showed green. Now being a trusting fellow when I turned the key Saturday "NOTHING" Soooo I put it on the charger for 8 hours and got 12.85 volts then disconnected it and checked it again after another 8 hours or so and got 12.5 volts. Stuck it in the bike and it started OK but now I am leery of getting stuck on the trail with the bike so will take it back to the supplier. Thought I would share this an case anyone knows the brand or has "an opinion"
I bought a moose racing kit from fleabay. Price was right and it included everything. I had a leak I could not completely identify. The bowl was wet, but there was evidence of a leak further up the carb body too. I took the scorched earth approach and replaced all the seals, jets, and needles. Werkz now.. ..although my idle fuel screw is all messed up now. @ zero turns I still can't make it idle quite right. Off idle all is well. Someday I'll care enough to fix that. In the meantime I just avoid idling!
Thanks. Bought it sight unseen so we will see how it pans out. In the end i could sell it back out fast for the $ I have in it, if need be. Got a guy in Santa Fe who is gonna grab it for me, but i need to figure out a way I can get it to Denver and i'm pressed for free time to go get myself. not in any huge hurry, but very excited to FINALLY own a DRZ!!! Great bikes for sure. I've been busy reading up on what to look out for and check out with these bikes. Got any insight for a noob?
Not much different than the DR650 thread read when I got mine. Also been reading over on TT (i'm boatxr) The 3x3 mod does not relate to me correct? That's for CV carb bikes only.
They're cheapy batteries, my buddy got barely 1 year of service out of it. So I wouldn't trust it if I were out you on the trails. I got me a lithium one "Phantom", just like "Shorai" light weight easy maintenance.
Since we're talking batteries I'm planning to go on a long road trip but I don't have any experience charging my cell phone, my contour video camera and digital camera batteries. All use a 5V, 1amp usb cable through a cigaretter socket. Am I OK to charge my devices while I'm stopped or should I be riding to keep it from draining my batteries?
