I got some fly racing steel bars, i have yet to put them on. will bark busters/handguards really save your handlebars from bending? thanks for the tips guys.
Anyone compared the cams from a YZ450 or 426 to the cams in our 350's? I was thinking it might be a viable high performance camshaft setup for added power.
You know about these people right? http://www.webcamshafts.com/ They wed up cams and regrind them. Just more than I want to spend on the thing, when I might be able to score cams cheap on fleabay from another bike. I think I found the answer unless the cam gear teeth are the same count and pitch as the 350. Nothing like our cams, and they use roller bearings where ours do not. Back to the drawing board.
If you want to have cams made, try MegaCycle instead. The lady that answers the phone know her sh!t! http://www.megacyclecams.com
I posted some pics of the rack too, and you can view them here: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?p=16708577#post16708577 Cheers!
I would be truly hesitant to try different cams. Tear down the engine sometime and look at the squish area. There isn't a whole lot of room to screw up the valve timing in there. A nearly flat combustion chamber with piston cutouts for the valves says to me that screwing with cam timing is dicey at best. Besides, the engine is pretty potent as it is just by doing the normal uncorking stuff. A free flowing pipe, opened airbox and correct jetting are the only things holding the engine back. Getting all of that right took some work (well a lot of eork actually) but it truly transformed mine. Mine would easily lift the front wheel with a perfect hard midrange hit and rarely flamed out crawling down trails. Everything Brypoint describes for jetting is spot on in my experience. Why he is fighting drilling out his airbox cover to finish job is beyond me. But I would go where he is on jetting, open up the airbox by cutting the top or drilling the cover and track down a decent pipe before doing any internal mods. The pipe andd opened airbox are as critical as the jetting.
I recently found some old pics of my first bike ever, a 1985 XT350, that i bought in 1987, with 6000 kms on the clock, for 4500 guilders (2040 euros) I dod not have a car license at the time, so i used it for evertything, from groceries, getting to work, and off course some offroad events ... and trialrides. I did not have enough money to get me some proper gear, although i had a GPA "Serge Bacou" replica helmet (my dakar favourite at that time). Wearing this helmet and looking very serious made me at least feel very fast. I learned my nephew to ride, but i most have done something wrong ... he became an international DJ I also took it on holidays ... Again no funds te get me proper bags, so a bought some bags in a bycicle shop and lots of plastic grocery bags to keep everything dry. This trip took me to the Formula 1 GrandPrix circuit of Belgium, in Spa/Franchorchamps. I sold it after 13 years and 60.000 kms (no typo) to buy a car, that broke down 6 months later .... Loved it, still ride Yamaha's, even had a TT350 for some time.
The bike rack you built is nice looking and a lot smaller than the rack I bought from Cycleracks. I see you put reflector tape on the rear is a nice touch to show up at night.
i love those old pictures! very nice! k, i just was curious about getting a new air filter. I'm not sure how old this one is. buying a new uni filter isn't goin to change it enough to need a rejetting is it? I wouln't think so, but I'm sure many of you have already done this so i just thought i'd ask.
Thanks! Caution's my middle name...lol Yes, the rack is fairly short. I kept it that way because the XT's frame is light and already sticks out quite a bit, so keeping it short may reduce the chance of cracking it. The rack for the XT225 I built is longer as the framework seems a bit more suited for this. Time will tell. Cheers!
Right. The bike works fine without it. Except the ignition key is no longer needed The kill switch still works fine. I think I'll put mine back on. I like going down steep stuff in gear with the ignition off and using the front brake, both feet and the clutch for the rear brake. I do not want it crash starting when I'm doing this...
Those with questionable old timing chain tensioners.... I was looking at my old one last night, you know it would be easy to re-use it. Just get a longer screw that will screw in and add a locking nut. Adjust the old tensioner till its snug, then screw in the bolt till it bottoms out, and adjust the locking nut down to make sure it doesn't move. This will lock the slotted adjuster screw so it can't move and in effect becomes a manual adjuster. this won't make the stem any longer to help with stretched chains though.
Although its easy to crank when cold it can be a bear when the engine is warm. Not to mention its 100 degrees out. Quick trip to lunch can become a freaking workout if it decides to be a bitch to crank. Possible to add the e-start or not? Thanks, F w/D
This engine never had an option for electric start. There is no place to even consider mounting a starter on it. You'll just have to find another bike if thats what you really want. Mine starts 1 kick everytime once warm so they are not all hard to start warm.
10-4. I like it too much to upgrade now but maybe oneday. Cooler temps should take the worst out of it. Longer riding times will be nice also. Thanks, F w/D
