Custom snub nose F800GS

No worries about the questions....Keep'em coming...... I do not use the wax anymore.... extra cost, and labor, not a necessity.... as it ensures better release of the uhhmmmm... release agent....:huh. If you are making a foam plug to make a high utilization mold,then yes coat with epoxy/sand, and repeat as necessary. If you are trashing the foam after use....Don't waste your time.....with the epoxy.

FYI....

<a href="<iframe width=" 560"="" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/eaakqJg1lsU" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen="">"><a href="<iframe width=" 560"="" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/eaakqJg1lsU" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""><iframe src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/eaakqJg1lsU" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" width="560"></iframe>

Ha! I have no ambition for surgery, something about quality of life etc... has me more interested in emergency medicine where I will work 3 days a week and have 4 to devote to my mistresses

Thanks for the video, I already watched all of yours on youtube hahaha! If I come up with a design I REALLY like for the snub nose I may make a mold of it for anyone that chooses to go this route as opposed to making a whole new front cowling like you have suggested.

I picked up an awesome table sander like the one in your video via craigslist. If I was back in Missouri I would have access to way to many nifty tools. I am making a bunch of machined parts when I go on leave after next weekend such as spacers, and brackets for the bike.

Another possibility might be to fab a piece that at least somewhat filled that space but that attached to the forks or fender and turned when you turn the bars. Maybe you already considered this and decided against it. Nice work. The Beemer's reduced shnoz has already given it a prettier face.

Herr, that wouldn't really work for a variety of reasons (mounting, space, no clearance to turn etc...) if I keep going at is and eventually get Ebrabaek all worked up he may just fab and entirely new rally oriented front cowl and become a millionaire (or make enough to cover the R&D cost). I believe a small wedge will be the route I am forced to take. After viewing the new F800s I am glad I have this year. I don't think I would have bought one of those. None the less I have a lot of fabrication to do regarding carbon fiber and fasteners etc...

Biggest issue right now is how to route brake lines... I am looking to run two solo lines down each fork starting from the top ABS linkage. Some have ran one line down from this then split via a T. I was thinking about just running a dual banjo with both lines tied in at that point and then having them flow down the front of the upper fork and slide around the back before the fork guards.... Wish I had a brake guy right here.

I have two solo lines like this. Has been working just fine this season.

Having it setup like that doesn't mess wi the ABS?

No problems at all.

Just placed my order with Spiegler for my brake lines. The hardest part about this is trying to find something that is the same width/pliability as brake lines. I think I found the best thing next to actual brake lines, coax cable! So I routed it on both sides and measured and I believe I have a good setup for it. Here is some what how one side will be routed but until I clear everything out it will be hard to get good pictures.

<a href="http://s1116.photobucket.com/albums/k571/Herman_Melville/?action=view&amp;current=IMAG1292.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="https://www.advrider.com/advrider-photobucket-images/images/H/Herman_Melville_IMAG1292.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

What I did was take the long banjo bolt from the (LH?) caliper, and use that with 2 banjos stacked up the top, then use the short bolt from up the top on the caliper.
Hope that makes sense.
You have to be careful to get the orientation of the banjos right at each end, as you can't twist these lines.
I took mine to the shop that builds them and let them loose.
Picked the bike up ready to roll an hour later. $A100

I used polyethelene water line tubing to mock up my brake lines. Also used a length of it split and slipped over the wheel sensor cable for protection

Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk 2

Yeah I got spiegler lines that will swivel, I was definitely concerned about the alignment if they were not capable of being swiveled and I am doing the exact same setup with the swap of the double banjo at the ABS linkage and putting the single on the left caliper. Should have the lines in by Saturday and will install them etc... I will be out of town next week but should everything done when I return, CF fab and all.

That's right, I remember that they do now. The only brand that does?
Unobtainium in Oz

Mike,

Where does your brake line flex when the fork compresses with your setup, is it between the caliper and the zip tie on the bottom of the upper tube?

If that's the case I think that's a bad idea, over time the metal banjo bolt will work harden, get stress cracks and eventually fail. You want some strain relief there, normally by fixing the line from the caliper to the fork guards, so the flex is only above them.

Hmmm...... isn't the original like that on the RHS?

I've never looked at the stock F800 closely in person but from the pic it would appear that there is a brake line guide/holder fixed to the low fender?

http://www.totalmotorcycle.com/photos/2009models/2009-BMW-F800GSe.jpg

Guzzi,

What fork guards did you utilize and did you have to make a custom bracket? For the future Galfer brake lines come w/swivels too. You can get these but just have to international freight them.

Lukas,

I had definitely considered what you stated about un-necessary flex of the lower brake line on the banjo bolt. I went ahead and bought another fork bracket (item B) and will be putting a cable router right there, this will permit the cables to slide up and down as the fork travels (and that is all mine seems to do). Then at point B I will setup a rigid cable bracket that will run from the bolt location that used to retain the rear fender but will now be used to keep the cables in a stable position. I believe this will be adequate, correct me if I am wrong or you have reservations. I had wholly considered the traditional MX routing pattern but opted against it for a variety of reasons.

They are Kawasaki KLX 250 from Acerbis. One of the inmates posted up a part number on another thread way back.
Chosen because they have the slider thingy at the top to stop them flopping around.
At the bottom I just reinforced the plastic guard with a bit of sheet steel, bolted to the guard with SS screws and nuts and fixed them in one spot, where they touched, basically.
I know this sounds a bit Mcgyver, but it has held up over 20 thousand km with no issues at all, and, I think, looks the part.