So I'm getting a new sidewalk poured. Problem is that it's beside my 20 year old driveway. Is there anything I can do to soften the appearance to get it to blend in with the old concrete, aside from a special blend or paint? Thx.
While its still wet put some of the powder dye that is used when they use stamps. If your having it poured by a pro, they may have some already. If it's already poured try the dirt trick. Either way it's going to be very hard to mach the existing.
Pouring some buttermilk on it will encourage lichens and things to grow on it giving it a more aged look. The dirt idea is good. Some old oil will stain it, as well.
:ddog Funny you should say that... the front end is up on blocks right now after a brake rotor disk seperated from the hat part of the rotor yesterday afternoon. I had thought a brake pad cracked or something at the *clunk* *grindgrindgrind* sound that I heard, but upon tearing things down yesterday evening I found a rotor that would not move in the caliper - as the hub was happily rotating. Rust seems to have eaten away the intersection between the Saturn's Rings and the hat. New rotors, pads, and wheel bearings are on their way to me now courtesy of Pelicanparts.com Back to the OP: yeah, a 300D will make your new concrete look old too...
Call up a concrete stamping company and ask to buy a gallon of antiquing stain. That's what the concrete resurfacing company did when we replaced steps and part of the sidewalk at the front door.
should have put a little bit of lamp black in the new stuff. This is the kind of stuff you talk about ahead of time.
Hose down the new concrete and apply a mix of 2 parts water to one part muriatic acid. Scrub it with an acid brush and etch the "new" film from the surface. Rinse with a hose. It will help some and mother nature will do the rest over the next year or so. .
I know someone dropped an automotive battery on my concrete pad and split the case, nice white concrete turned a tanish brown color in that spot only.
That's similar to the etch I described above. The cement slurry on new concrete is often too bright next to weathered surfaces. The acid etch removes this layer and exposes the sand in the matrix. This is a kind of accelerated weathering. (The battery acid most likely stained the surface AND etched it) The muriatic method is permanent, cheap and involves no stain. A 3:1 solution can be used instead of 2:1 for slower etching and more control. Multiple passes will give the desired etch then rinse well to stop the reaction. MSDS, etc, etc. Gloves, glasses, safety gear. Muriatic is only about $6 bucks a gallon at the hardware store, cut 3:1 you get 4 gallons of acid which is enough to do about 250 s.f. The only reason I would try this first is because it involves no staining. If you try a stain and get the wrong color you may be worse off. It will never be a perfect match since the concrete came from different batches at different times. Sand color varies and some grey cements are cool grey while some have a warmer buff tone. Numerous variables. .
