Cortech Sport Tailbag. I'm not sure they're still available, I was looking earlier and couldn't find them. I wasn't real persistent though. That one looks like a clone of the Cortech. Only difference is the smooth exterior surface. +1 Backup so a bit of the bike's color is in the photo. TLM: glad your ankle is just sprained.
Almost can guarantee it is the green plug under the tank. Happened exactly like this to me a couple of months ago. Eventually found that it was just a little bit loose. Tightened it up and strapped it together with a zip tie...problem solved.
My first (hopefully only) hit on the oil cover bent the front bolt. Button head bolts with your cover might be a good idea too. I went with the alu cover that protects the bolt bosses too. If this photo is too big maybe someone will tell me how to reduce?
Isn't that one of the bash plates which can allow a rock to poke a hole in your crankcase? Ie it's too short and doesn't attach to the back of the frame??
ER70S-2, you are right. The Cortech Sport Tailbag is no longer available. It has been replaced by a dorky-looking 2 liter bag. Why, when something is so well-made and useful, would they stop making it?
On the topic of bash plates with bolts aimed at the case... I had an "oh shit!" moment on my Maine trip last month. Going over a rock barrier I found myself teetering on a pointy rock. All I could think of was a busted case pissing oil all over. Thankfully it didn't go that way. This winter I'll make some alternative mounting arrangement using the same bash plate. If it's not too ugly I'll post up some pics.
Dammit, I was afraid of that. After many years of faithful service, the main plastic zipper is starting to fail.
http://advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=22476756&postcount=82345 What I was going to do....and should have done, is just extended the Ricochet plate back to the mounting holes which would eliminate the bolt thru the case issue and give full coverage.
Thought I'd drop in and introduce myself - longtime lurker, first-time poster. I've been on adv for the last couple years chugging around on an R12GSA, but it was a PIG! Anytime I got into anything technical, my whoppin' 8-inch pipes were barking! So, it's now wearing out someone else. With all that money burning a hole in my pocket, I picked up what I thought was a solid 2000 DR - devil's in the details. Why is it I always learn more about a bike once I get it home and start cleaning it up?! I knew the PO had ridden hard based on the bashplate's scars and dents. I didn't, however, know he had chosen to install the bashplate after knocking the snot out of the bike's bottom bits beforehand. That aside, this thing is a kick in the pants! Can't believe I can be riding 70MPH down the highway one minute and riding single track the next - too much fun! My only issue thusfar is constant stalling under heavy braking and when going downhill. This makes it a bit tricky to be dodging downhill ruts, rocks and roots while trying to push the go button! I cleaned the carb yesterday, drilled the slide, shimmed the needle, even tried to reduce the carb float height thinking maybe the idle jet was being starved as gas sloshed to the front of the carb bowl - I knew it was a stretch . . . it didn't work. I only found one post up here from 2010 that points to a frozen/faulty choke cable. I'll try that first then get back on here crying for help if it doesn't work. Here's a picture of the beast as of today. I dropped in Cogent DDCs with .55kg springs up front. The .55s made the front end feel like it wasn't planted, so I just dropped in some .50s. I hope to hit the trails again next week to see if those instill some additional confidence. Also added a Cogent Mojave in the back - pretty awesome. Just installed the Warp 9 risers and Acerbis tank yesterday. Even added a 12V plug to <strike>run my wife's hairdryer</strike> light cigars.
Good looking bike! I also had an R1150GS, and while I went 60,000 miles on it in three years, it wasn't a whole lot of fun. Bought a F800GS and went almost as far on that one, but sold it shortly after buying my DR. I realized I no longer liked owning a bike worth that much, which I didn't feel comfortable working on. The DR is a whole lot more like the old English and Italian bikes we had: BSAs, Triumphs, Ducati singles etc. And that's why we like it so much.
I had stalling on heavy braking. Checked my idle and it was set too low. Turned it up to spec and never any problem again. Might be worth a check
I actually upped my idle today after it died on me but I have also replaced my choke/fast idle! to the engine mount version from Procycle after the original was causing trouble.
Have you fiddled with the fuel screw? Early on when I was just setting up the carb, the bike would stall after coming to a stop after a long freeway run. An extra 1/2 turn out more than recommended did the trick. Its been good to go 42,000 miles since. If you dont have an extended fuel screw, you should get one. kientech.com has em
Welcome! That's a mighty fine downsize/upgrade you got there! One thing about the DR you might get to like compared to more complicated bikes is how easy it becomes to understand once you mess with it. It gives you confidence traveling and gives a bond I think only gearheads get with their machines. I'd like to throw one piece of advice at ya: ditch the skid plate and get one that goes all the way back to the rear mounting holes. Not a knock I promise! I have the same one and made the same mistake as the PO of your bike did. You hit a rock hard enough and you'll have holes in your cases. As soon as I have the dough I'm picking up a pat walsh skidplate to avert potential catastrophe! As for your problem, that could be a few carb related things. I would start off by REPLACING the pilot jet completely. It may seem fine but they get clogged easily. Make sure it has the right size (BST gurus help me out here? Its a 22.5 for the tm40). Then get 'er warmed up and run the fuel screw down until it starts to get an erratic idle (go 1/2 turn closed at a time) where its too lean. Then, back it all the way out until it starts to stumble where its too rich. Then count the total turns. Let's say its 3. Screw in 1.5 turns and call it good Also, are you sure its idling at 1500 rpms or so? The Dr will idle at 1300 and sound right, but 1500 is what Suzuki calls for and its less apt to die that way. It can be a pain to know exactly. I have a vapor replacing my speedo which makes it easy, but there are tachs out there that are separate. Anyways, welcome again! Make sure you have some good boots to protect your ankle in a fall. Another inmate and myself realized what a big pig can do coming down on your ankle but we both lucked out
Yea, one of these days I'll have a buddy extend it to use the frame mounts at the back. I sanded the bolt heads to better nest in the recesses of the cases but of course they'd get shoved around anyway with a hard hit. Thanks for reminding me. I may have already squandered my allotment of no-damage hits.
Emmbeedee, I hear ya on the "too expensive" thang. I struggled with the idea of trashing a $500 beak in a fall, much less the idea of lifting the GSA! I've tinkered on an old CB750 I've restored over the past three years, so getting down to a single carb seems simple! oldschoolsk8ter and barko1, that's a great idea to confirm the idle! I'll try that before ordering a new choke cable. Escaped, I haven't fiddled with the air/fuel screw (out 2.25 turns right now). Good call on the extended fuel screw. I installed one yesterday, so that'll make tuning easier. GSF1200S, I'm totally diggin' the DR! Occasionally a bike just grabs ya (like the one(s) you want back after all these years and kick yourself for selling). The day I bought it, I rode it home, didn't even change out of my pants and boots, and spent five hours cleaning the PO's Moab trip off it. I felt an immediate bond and need to take care of it - weird, but not unusual, to the crew reading this! Thanks for the bash plate advice. The PO (aka "Boner" from here forward) pinched the frame in three spots and I finally realized why I couldn't clean four square inches on the bottom of the motor - it was a JB Weld patch! Boner rode hard, or dumb, I'm not sure which. Thanks for the nice writeup on dialing in the air/fuel screw. My wife thanks you for just selling me on ordering a Vapor, too. "Honey, without a Vapor, how will I know where to set the idle?!"
How many miles are there on the carburetor? Drilling the slide will accelerate (at ~double the rate) slide guide, emulsion tube, slide, and jet needle wear on a carburetor that is already chronically prone to wear in these areas. I'm also not convinced that there are actually performance gains to be had from increasing the lift hole area. In fact, I had a KTM 640 Adventure on the dyno that gained ~1 hp from 5.5K to red line simply by going from the double-hole KTM slide to the single hole late DR slide. Gains were also made across the entire range at 1/4 opening while the mixture essentially stayed the same, with a max gain in torque of 1.4 ft-lbs at 3K rpm. There were gains across the board at 1/8 opening, with a max gain in torque of 2.6 ft-lbs at 2K rpm, along with the usable rev range extended from 3.4K to 5K rpm. There were also gains across the board at 1/16 opening, with a max gain in torque of 1.2 ft-lbs at 2.5K rpm, along with the usable rev range extended from 2.5K to 3K rpm. And slide guide, emulsion tube, slide, and jet needle wear will be reduced. The pilot jet is forward of the main jet, so fuel sloshing forward under braking would not cause it to starve. I cannot think of any instance in which it would be beneficial to reduce the float height on a BST40 installed on a DR650, although there may be occasion to increase it. Be aware that shimming the needle clip will indeed richen the mixture, but (except when the slide is against either stop) it will do so by lowering the slide rather than by raising the needle, as the shim increases the preload on the slide spring. BST40 carbs use a cold start enrichment circuit instead of a choke. A choke is closed when an engine is cold and opened when it is warm, whereas a fuel enrichment circuit is opened when the engine is cold and closed when it is warm. A choke works by restricting the air flow, whereas an enrichment circuit works by adding extra fuel. A choke requires a fast idle cam or something akin to it (or you have to hold the throttle open manually), whereas an enrichment circuit adds a little extra air simultaneously with the extra fuel, so the fast idle is already built in. Regards, Derek