F800GS Touratech 20lt fueltank - Who's got one???

I didn't really like the routing of the vent line on the aux tank. The fitting is on the left side and at full lock the triple tree just hits it. It hasn't split that hose yet but I really don't like the location. When I get home I'll likely re-route the hose from the left toward the middle of the triple tree, between the bar clamps then up and over the windscreen and back down the left side rather than the right. Clear as mud right? I'm sure you figure out what I mean when you see it.

I'll try to snap some pics of it and what I'll change when I have some time.

Cory

I will give it a try and report back. I am thinking about making my own studs and reducing the end that the nut threads onto. This would be similar to racing wheel studs that prevent cross threading. This way I won't put excessive strain on the tank by starting the nut cross threaded. I am thinking threaded rod turned down on my lathe. Of course the same thing could be accomplished with a grinder or file. Nice little project.

I would offer measuring and marking at least three times before drilling the original tank. There is little room for error when locating the fuel bulk head fittings. The measurements in the instructions were right on with my tank. There isn't much thread contact for the domed nuts that go inside the tank. I used blue loctite to insure the those nuts wouldn't back off in the field. That would be a major PITA to repair plus you would lose most of your fuel. The blue loctite will withstand gas immersion as long as it is fully cured. I gave it 24 hours before any gas was put into the tank. I also tested with gas for leaks at the bulkhead before installing the rear frame and tank. I think this could save some major time and increase confidence in the integrity of the work.

You're not kidding. I had to buy longer bolts as I couldn't even get the nuts started. Not sure if my tank was a tad thicker in the specified drilling location or what the issue was but there was no way things were going work with the length of the supplied bolts.

same here... what was odd was I found bolts in my shop that were maybe just 1mm longer so I used them. seems like the factory supplied ones are just cut a tad too short. Could this have something to do with the new and older gen tanks?

HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! does part number 3 go back on with the kit?



the front fairing is driving me insane putting it together!!!! any help?

I too have found that an annoying little bastard when I have reassembled the beak. I went out to the garage and took a couple of photos (Its dark here). Hope this helps you work out how it goes back ...

bugger!! how the hell did that work for you? :huh

Making sure I had it aligned right and patience!

If I remember right you have to get the "ALB" and the beak aligned, get one screw in, do up loosely then get the othe one started, and only then tighten it fully with other beak screws.

It would probably be pretty handy to be built like Vishnu ...



... but I hear he only works on Enfields!

Good luck!

I line-x'd my TT tank for the 800... love it

maybe I should do that on my schuberth and go hunting deers!

This could be just the ticket. I've been wondering about adding Stomp Grip pads to the areas my knees grip on the sides of the faux tank 'cause it's slippery, but am concerned that Stomp Grip is really more aggressive than I want. Bed liner might give the perfect amount of grip! How does it hold up on plastic? Mostly I see it on metal, like pickup truck beds . . .

OK, finally got sufficient motivation and time to check on this. I see the "T" fitting, but there are two check valves, one between the "T" and the TT tank and the other between the "T" and the main tank, both pointing toward their respective tanks. The base of the "T" runs to what I'm assuming is a charcoal canister? Are you saying there should be one check valve between the "T" and the canister? Seems like the setup I've got is valid, unless the thing I want is for the tanks to equalize with each other...

(Btw, I do have the overfill tube issue where the fitting and airbox are fighting for the same space, and the LBS made a mess out of the equivalent tube on the main tank. But those tubes should only come into play right after filling the tank and spilling a bit around the filler neck, right?)

Never mind, I think I've found what the likely culprit is. The TT instructions say to run the vent line from the stock tank up front, and to put the T there, then run the line up and over the instrument cluster, which would provide a nice air gap I'm thinking. The only problem is that this bypasses the charcoal canister entirely. The LBS tried to keep the canister with a creative routing involving putting the T under the seat. I'll re-do that and the overfill lines tomorrow.

I would say my BMW F800GS is true super tanker,it has the Touratech 5.3 gal gas tank, 2 Rotopax gas cans and 3 MSR bottles on the rear of the bags.

total cap around 13 gal ... can you say ironbutt

(of course i don't need that but so I am swapping the rotopax over for water now that I have the touratech tank and I will only need one of the MSR bottles for my stove)

pssor

Damn, all that must weight a lot! :eek1

Good looking bike though!