New and improved KTM690 WUNDERFEST

Make sure you get the new style rockers. They have a dot rather than a cross on the end of the shaft.

I tend to agree, but it does vary significantly. For instance, there are three reports on the link below that are 10K or less:


ADVrider thread - http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=951460
PDF - https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/22421767/690_survey.pdf

Having never seen actual data on failure rates and only having anecdotal observations of forum member experiences I would say my statement is right on target. It would be nice to know more information about the ones that failed...like:

how many km's on engine
riding style
race bike?
what were valve clearances before and at point of failure.
what oil was used
was the bike properly warmed up each time
and of course any numbers to help ID the producer of said part.

I own one of the first 08's to hit the USA and that engine has about 16000km...much of it high revs and racing with no sign of failure yet.

My exhaust rocker failed at 25400km on a 2012 model. Light travel/offroad use.
Motorex 10w60.
I could hear the rocker ticking for about 500km before it got too bad for the bike not to start.

Regarding bleeding, will do. Pretty sure I got the air out but I'll give it another go to be sure.

Unfortunately I can't get it out of neutral before it stalls (thus can't ride it anywhere). As soon as I shift into first after startup, the bike stalls. It feels like the friction plates aren't separating but the clutch action feels good. My only thought is that I may have missed the "pretension ring" as I do not recall seeing it ANYWHERE when I took it apart. Does anyone know if this is typically included with a new clutch kit?



Below is what I was referring to as the offset. The last friction plate is suppose to be one notch over yes?

Guys with rally fairings on your 690s...

First is it hard to see the trail in front of you on hard / technical parts? Seems some are rather tall and could make it hard to negotiate.

Second... does your fairing get a lot of damage in fall overs? No matter how good you are occasionally they go over... seems the fiberglass would be rather vulnerable, especially at the lower / bottom tank areas.

Getting my 690 for the TAT and would love the additional protection and range.

Thanks in advance.

Right on. Clutch in, shift into first, bike lunges forward and stalls.
I soaked the clutch plates for about 15 minutes.

I'm not following you on the tabs moving smoothly. The plates went in smoothly and didn't seem to be jammed.

Thanks, gives me a few things to check when I crack it back open.

Mine did this when I installed new clutch plates. I don't recall what I had wrong, but you've assembled it wrong. Helpful, I know.

IIRC, you need to preload the slipper more before buttoning it up.

Hey actually that helps a lot =).

First time doing this. What do you mean by preload the slipper? :huh

Good to know. I take it letting them soak in oil inside the clutch basket isn't good enough. #fail

No luck separating the plates in any gear. Also not sure if it could be related but the bike over heated (which is what helped kill the clutch). I'll check out all of those parts as well.

Thanks!

Unlikely, but I'll throw it out there. I once had a crank replaced in a 250 by a "professional" and I had the same problem. When I took the clutch apart to see what the problem was, it was unbelievable. Apparently the washer that sits behind the inner hub had adhered to the hub due to the oil, but when he re-assembled, it slid down and wedged itself to where it was half under the inner hub and lying on top of the basket. So, when he tightened up the nut holding the hub on, it locked the hub and basket together. I was not impressed.

I cut my EVO 2 fairing down a bit to combat buffeting. Its only high enough to protect the ICOs above the roadbook. When its technical enough, I'm generally on the pegs. Alternatively, I look past the fairing if I need to see the front wheel.

Are you referring to item 1? That is the bit on the end of the push rod that pushes bearing number 2 which resides in item number 5? I do not recall seeing that number 1 when I took it apart... in fact previously I had pulled the push rod out from the slave cylinder side. Wonder if something fell out .

The 690 just feels bigger, and more comfortable on long trips and any pavement riding. Doesn't really require more maintenance other than slightly more frequent oil changes.

replying from page 1327 as a test. My work browser indicates all pages onward are blocked due to antivirus. Damn you work? How am I supposed to keep up with 690's.

If 1 or 2 weren't there the clutch slave would most likely go to full stroke then the pull would become rock hard.
You haven't mentioned the clutch lever feel? Does it feel like it did before? you will have changed the position in the slave the piston is operating so there may be a bypass now, did you pull the lever in with the basket off? There may be air in it.
Just a thought

The tabs on the clutch fiber plates are guided by the slots in the side of the clutch basket. These tabs can have rough spots or a bur that prevents the plate from sliding smoothly. This can bind the plate and impact operation. In summary...when you put each plate into the basket make sure it slides smoothly and freely back and forth in the basket. Also make sure the steel plates slide smoothly on the center hub

FYI on the 300mm suspension.

I hope you have a tall inseam. When I put that suspension on my 690 the seat height was 38". I'm 5'10" (180cm) and could not touch the ground at all. I had to look for ditches and rock to stop on the trail.

Here is what a 38" seat hight at its lowest spot looks like:



I've got a 30.5" inseam: