Scotts install on 2012 990 Adventure R.

Hello all. So I came home today and found a nice little present waiting for me:





Now I know there are probably a hundred Scotts threads, and that I'll probably get the standard 2nd, 3rd, and 4th posts saying "you know how to do a search, you idiot?" However, firstly, the vBulletin search engine used by Adv sucks. Secondly, yes, I used the whole Google "site:www.advrider.com scotts" etc etc etc... All to no avail. What I'm looking for is an install how-to for the above components. The setup came with a pretty stellar install manual, but I'm a bit leery about the whole drilling out of the security bolts that hold the key switch on the stock upper triple. Everything else is pretty straight forward. Anyone have some experience with getting the keyswitch off of the stock upper triple and transferring it to the Scotts upper triple. Mainly the whole drilling part? Thanks!

Didn't your triple/Scott's combo came with full install booklet?

Drilling the keyswitch bolts out kinda freaked me out a bit, too.
Turns out to be pretty easy, really.
I drilled a bit too deep, and into my stock clamp just a bit, but not enough to ruin it for re-use. No real harm at all, really. Drilling the heads out seemed easier than trying to hacksaw a screwdriver slot, and that would have notched the stock clamp also.

The instructions are so thorough and lengthy, that I think that added to my apprehension, and made it "seem" harder than it actually was.
It's easier than it sounds, seriously,...go for it!!

Mostly the same experience here. Just jump in and do it OP!

Edit:

Went back and looked at my Smugmug files and I only found a couple of pics that I took during installation. I doubt they will help much, but here they are:

Thanks guys! I will. Yeah, I agree. The instructions are so long and thorough that it freaked me out a bit. Mainly the drilling part. I'm just going to go for it. Did you guys use a center punch to divit the security bolt heads like the manual says to do before drilling?

Yes, you should do that; it helps center the bit.

Exactly how I felt.
Then I got done and thought......"that wasn't so bad"

GREAT info. Thanks a ton guys!! I have a killer cold right now but will be attempting install when I'm out of the woods and feeling better.

PS gotta pick myself up a center punch.

I just installed mine 2 or 3 weeks ago
Easy to follow instructions , but...
Anybody bothered by the rubber mount ?
It feels weird to me .
Anyone switched to hard mount ? I believe I have seen
some inserts on CJ's site .

i did mine last winter with no instructions(bought used).
just do it!

You don't have to do it with a center punch. Anything hard enough to make a prick mark in the head will do it, but a punch is cheap enough and probably something you should have in your tool arsenal anyway.

Or instead of drilling them out you could cut a slot with a dremel tool and simply undo them with a screwdriver.

That is what I did and they came out easy think some have had trouble since they should be on there with some thread lock so if it fails drill them out.

/Johan

So I just installed the Scotts. Went fairly well. Took 2.5 hours. I ran into a slightly annoying snag. The ignition cable goes down on the right side of the head tube and tucks in behind a plastic cover in the frame. I looked at it and went WTF? How an I supposed to get the off? I had to take off the right side panel and loosen the right fuel tank in order to get a torx bit on the screw holding the plastic frame cover on. Once this cover was off, the ignition plugs were sitting right behind it. Below is a pic from the parts fiche showing the frame cover and where it installs. I called Scotts. They didn't know about the plastic frame cover up by the steering head. It doesn't mention this frame cover in the Scotts manual at all either:


Other than that it went pretty well. I drilled out the security bolts for the ignition, and went a bit too far. Nothing that makes the ignition unusable or unmountable. So no biggy. I just took a little bit of the metal from the ignition mount off too! I also scratched the frame a bit wile working on the bike too. Bummer. Either way, it came out good. Looks good. The factory setting on the stabilizer is WAY too stiff though. I'll have to get it out on the road and make some adjustments. Good stuff overall.

Earlier models dont have that plastic cover on the frame, really early did not even have the splashguard number 27.

/Johan

This really is the best way to do it, if you have a Dremel. No risk in damaging the threads or going too far. I think the assumtion is that everyone has a drill and a good bit is much cheaper than a Dremel.

The cutting of slots on the heads of the bolts would have put notches in the ignition mount metal too though. I figured drilling would keep me from damaging the ignition mount. I guess not. It seems either way, drilling or notching, I would have damaged it a bit.

I used a dremel and cut the slots as well. Super easy. Used the big honking 12" Craftsman screwdriver and they came right out. Don't recall if I cut slots in the ignition mount, but I don't recall any adverse effects, so must not have been a big deal.

Now that you mention it, I do remember having to remove that cover and it being a bitch to get it back on. Sorry I didn't say something about it. You did a good job!

Nice job. I just installed mine a few weeks ago as well. Stock base damping setting was WAY too stiff for me. I pretty much backed that setting 3/4 of the way counterclockwise, don't like to feel resistance while making normal turns. Put the bike up on the center stand and weight down the back to get the front tire off the ground. Then you can adjust all three damping settings and be able to yank the bars left/right slowly or quickly to see how the adjustments effect the damping. For me, the high speed damping was what was most important. If I turn the bars normally, there is little to no resistance. If I yank them very quickly as in hitting a big rock or experiencing a slapper, the high-speed damping definitely kicks in.

You definitely want to adjust damping settings to your own preference, the out of box settings are pretty stiff. We'll see if it makes any difference in the deep sand, ruts, baby heads and hopefully it'll stop a tankslapper dead in its tracks. Plus it looks cool and should have come with the bike.

Thanks, man! I know, right? it was kinda a bitch getting that cover on and off.