New LED's for cars, copper mesh heat management, can it work on a bike?

LED H1 4300K 2500 lumens already installed, fits perfectly on this low beam 1150 GSA without the cap, of course. Space inside the housing with cap on is almost nil. The copper mesh is very malleable so it can be bent, there is also one wire that has to come out somehow. The cap would have to be modified to allow the wire and copper mesh to come out but keeping system water tight.


My test bench (or sofa, actually!)


Nice cutout.

Opinions? Suggestions? Thanks



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a little air flow for cooling? why not.

Do you have a part number?

Do you have more details of this? can't see much in the photos?

Check the Vendor forum,think Sanjoh is already offering similar.

JR356

My RPTV uses a similar design to cool the 3 high power LEDs in the light engine. Of course the TV needs a fan to move some air down the cooling duct where the copper radiators are located.

Yes, current draw, specttum and anything else of interest would be appreciated. Or, how 'bout a link.

Inmate Sanjoh has these:

http://stores.advmonster.com/headlight-replacement/

Check vendors for discount too.

Just google "LED H1 bulb copper" and you get a lot of info.

I believe the draw is 10W.





Got these pics from ebay:





Unfortunately there is not a lot of space inside the headlight assembly to jam the copper mesh in, as you would in a car (pictured above). You have to modify the cap anyway so the black wire can come out. I am considering using a dremel to make a small letterbox like opening in the back or bottom of the headlight assembly cap, to let the metal mesh hanging outside. I made a few preliminary tests, the mesh gets very hot quickly. After a few minutes it is perhaps too hot to hold in your hands. It really draws heat away from the "lamp" itself, increasing performance and durability.

I am really trying to make this work on my bike. We know the 1150 needs all the help it can get to improve the original lighting!! It will go to my car if everything else fails.



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Get some one to 3d print you a new bigger cap.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?p=26611861

Wonder if you could use a couple of 1/2" PVC elbows with box adapters and hang them out and pointed down. Like the breather tube on the current assembly but bigger. Should be a good enough rain/splash guard in all but the most severe scenarios (such as immersion where you would be screwed anyway). Very KISS and if it fails stick a plastic knockout plug in there and back to the start. Also all the parts are at the local hardware store for a few bucks.

That's a 50 watt resistor. The draw is 50 watts plus whatever the led draws. The resistor is going to create 50 watts of heat.

So, were creating a lot of heat just to get an LED to work in the GS headlamp and hanging some metal braid out of the rear of the headlamp assembly to keep the LED cool...I'll pass and stick with a 4300K, 3100 lumen HID.

Yes. The headlight assembly is designed for a hot bulb but where do you install a hot resistor?

Your bike doesn't need the resistor because it doesn't detect the lower current consumption of the led and cause a bulb fault.

Also, is the headlight assembly designed to withstand the weight of everything that extends behind the led?

The resistor is capable of dissipating 50W without burning up. The actual heat loss will depend on the current that goes through it and voltage over it.
Actually in this case only current is relevant.

That what I hate on the LED lights. You go to the $ spend, time, trouble to save (W) Power and than you have to hide this aditonal 50W Resistor's to foul the Onboard Computer. This resistors getting hot to melt the plastic. I have two for the LED tail light/blinker conversion installed on the Panier's frame.

You will burn your finger's

To avoid a lamp fault it needs to dissipate the same energy as an H7 bulb. Put your finger on one after the led has been on for a while. You will be burned.

I don't doubt that the resistor is getting hot. My point is that it doesn't necessarily mean it is getting full 50W hot.

I'd rather mount the 'resistor' under the beak... Away from everything...

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Install 4 more :) to create a total of 50W.