84 Honda Elite 125 questions...

Spent the night changing fluids and making a gasket for the exhaust. Still need a better bolt for the fixed exhaust bolt but the homemade gaskets seemed to quiet it down quite a bit, I think the exhaust is ok. I just took a hammer and tapped the flange back into place, no need to weld anything.

Check it out...

before...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8VbcPVuXns4&feature=youtu.be

and after...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nuyFi1bWR1c&feature=youtu.be

The oil looked good but changed it anyhow, the tranny fluid looked good also but changed that as well. Didn't tear off the plastic to do the coolant but that also looks good so I'll do that at my leasure.

Sounds great! What did you make the exhaust gasket out of? FYI; The factory gasket is made of a steel ring stamped around a fiber gasket; it costs about $2 from the dealer and will last roughly the life of the rear tire, coincidentally.

I have the steel gasket but it didn't have any fiber seal when I pulled the exhaust. I just used some gasket material I had laying around. I'll take the original steel one to the Honda dealer and see if they have a replacement. I still can't tighten it snug, need a few washers and a better nut for the bolt that's fixed to the header but it was much quieter with my work around and that tells me the exhaust is ok which is very cool.

I sent in the registration form to Vermont DMV yesterday. I didn't get any paperwork with the beast so I'm taking the advice I'd read on this forum about getting a VT registration. It's easier, quicker and way cheaper than trying to get a title in NY. Hopefully I'll have the registration and plate within a few weeks.

Ordered a new ignition switch, keys and 2 accessory locks on eBay yesterday for $16. The switch for this model is discontinued. The one I bought looks very similar and has the same mounting setup and the harness is similar although not the an exact match. It'll be nice to use a key to start it instead of pliers.

I suggest replacing the exhaust nuts and throwing some anti-seize on the studs when you finally get the correct gasket installed.

got what looks to be a good muffler. but have not unbolted it yet.

To all you electrical guru's out there. I just got my new ignition switch in the mail. Good fit and should work fine once I figure out which wires to hook up. The plug is different on the new one but both use 5 wires. I'll have to cut and splice the old plug on the new switch.

The old switch has a separate wire and a 4 wire plug. The separate wire is black with white stripe. The 4 wires in the other plug are red, brown (green stripe), green and black.



The new switch has a 5 wire plug. Colors are green (2), brown, red, black with white stripe.



I'm guessing the black (white stripe) on each connect, same with the brown and red. That leaves 2 green on the new and the green and brown/green on the old. Would both of those be grounds? Here's how it's labeled on the old switch schematic.

Brown-Bat(2?) can't read the number
Red -Bat(1?) can't read the number
Black-Bat(3?) can't read the number
Green-E(ngine)
B/W-IG(nition)

On the new switch (for a 50cc Spree) the wiring diagram only shows 4 wires even though there are 5 wires on the switch. The schematic labels them...

Black-Battery
B/W-Ignition
Green-E(ngine?) There are two green wires but only one mentioned and shown in the drawing
Red-BA1

Took the logical approach and wired up the new switch. My only real concern were the two green wires on the new and the green green/brown on the old switch so I just randomly connected those wires and the switch works. Now I can reinstall it and use the keys! I also got the locks for the seat and glove box with this kit ($16 on ebay, new, two keys). The glovebox lock fit, the seat lock didn't. I can get the seat off without the key so no big deal.

OK, pulling the front plastic off this thing is like pulling your own teeth. It's all in fairly good shape but some fastening points are broken and the left turn signal part is busted off. Got all the plastic bits inside now and will repair what I can, replace rusted screws and start buffing out imperfections and give them all a coat of wax.
Note: if my registration fails and this turns out to be hot (I ran the VIN and nothing came up) I'm gonna be P!$$ed.



Lot's of beer in the fridge, time to put some tunes on and polish my plastic bits.

Note: These bikes often get the broken plastic removed and ridden naked, they call them Skellies. Don't think that thought isn't crossing my mind after removing the plastic. Here's a fine example...



$$ spent so far...around $100 and that includes $50 for registration and plates in VT.

These machines are as sturdy and durable as a brick, with minimum maintenance. Most of them are just neglected to death. Remember that in 1984 there was no synthetic oil, and they used regular gas. So, clean it up, check that the rollers in the variator aren't totally flat, check the condition of the belt, make sure your tires aren't 25 years old, and enjoy! There is a 150 service manual at http://www.hondaspree.net/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=8558

Sometimes the rear bearing in the swingarm is bad, but it could be dry. The bolt holding the rear wheel rotates with the wheel, but it can be loose sometimes. Most times the speedo cable is broken inside, but you can still get them from Honda.

The 85 150 is the same machine, Honda just increased the displacement to get it to meet standards for freeway legal.

These are very ugly, but they are the best scooters ever. They just run and run.

Went out to change the coolant the other night and couldn't get the damn thing started. I'd taken the tank off last weekend and adjusted the valves, otherwise nothing else was touched. Put the tank back on and can't get her to start. Have spark so it must be something with the fuel delivery. It was starting right up before I removed the tank.

got two elite 150 parts bikes ... so PM if you need anything

Has it not started since you adjusted the valves? It is easy to adjust the valves too tight on these engines, which will cause a variety of engine starting and idling issues; I've done it. IF you're 100% certain the valve adjustment isn't the issue, I'd check out the petcock on the fuel tank; these can stick in the "closed" position, and are sensitive to pinched or leaking vacuum lines.

It hasn't started since removing the tank and adjusting the valves. The valves seem easy enough to adjust but one adjuster didn't really slide back and forth too easily. I sprayed it and loosened it up and readjusted it a few times the other night. Didn't seem to make any difference.
How does the petcock get stuck in the closed position? Like an airlock, is that what you mean? That sort of seems more likely the issue. It did happen after removing and remounting the tank and hoses.

Thanks, I'll keep that in mind.
Other than it not starting recently all the parts seem to be working fine. Only thing I've needed to buy for it so far were fluids, air filter and exhaust gasket. I ordered a CDI unit on ebay today also, found a new one there for $9.99 and figured I'd replace it just because I've read so much about them going bad. Lights all work, plastic and gauges are fine, everything is there.

Do you have spark? The connection between the cable and the cap is notorious for failing after you pull it from the plug. Reseat the cable in the cap.

The petcock operates by vacuum. If you reversed the two lines it certainly won't work. Try pulling off what you think is the fuel line from the petcock, then put a cup under the spout, then crank it over. Gas should flow. No flow, no go.

If there's no flow, then pull off the other end (near the carb) of the vacuum line, and smell it. If it smells like gas, you may have them reversed. If it does not smell, and you feel brave (or stupid), suck on it lightly and see if gas flows from the petcock. If there's still no flow, pull the line you thought was for vacuum off the petcock, push it on the other nipple, and try again.

Good luck.

And I don't mean to sound like a pain in the ass here, but you did ensure the engine was at TDC before adjusting the valves, and you slid the adjusters out all the way (without force), then gently move them inward by two gradients, right?

I marked the lines to the petcock before removing them so they are on correctly. Didn't mess with it this weekend since we had decent weather and I headed off for a nice 2 day ride. When I did the valves I did have TDC set. I'll get back out there tonight or tomorrow and see what's going on. Thanks for the input guys.

I readjusted the valves again. The feel is vague. It was smoking when it last ran. Possible it could be internal? Could I have done more damage running it on the road? I have the manual and TDC was on when I adjusted at least this time, maybe not the other times. The thing won't even start with starter fluid, that's the kicker. It's impossible to get to the carb on this without pulling the engine, or at least it seems that way to me. I don't want to spend much getting this running but I don't have much in it either. Should I just pull the engine and take it apart as a learning experience?
I did order a new CDI and should be here in the next few days. Any chance that could be the issue?

Someone at work just suggested the possibility of the intake valve being stuck, maybe adjusted too tight when I first adjusted the valves. I'm going to see if Auto Zone has a compression gauge in their loaner tools and will check both possibilities tonight.