Oz / Kiwi Suzuki DR650 Adv Riders Sign in Here please

I will also stick to the brands recommended by the manufacturer because I once got caught when a supplier cross referenced to champion plugs and nearly cooked the motor on the XS11 I was riding at the time, luckily I had kept the old plugs with me as spares of I would have been stuck on the side of the road as the champions ate their electrodes.

Thanks for the info. I have put the old ones back in for now. They looked OK anyway.

Need to call the supplier anyway, as my locally sourced cheap crap rim lock had the bolt pull out. :eek1. I love fitting a tyre twice. . Excuse to go alloy me thinks.

I've done probably 50,000 kms on CR9EKs in mine. I had them in the shed from an older, different bike, so thought I'd use them up in the DR. No issues at all. 10-9 is not a big jump.

Price reductions for Suzuki brake pads.

http://www.bikesales.com.au/content/riding-advice/price-reductions-for-suzuki-brake-pads-43050

yes - I did search, but want to confirm standard chain length?

Is it 110 links?

Bad news was muppets at workshop replaced chain with 108 links, reducing tyre clearance and ability to quickly swap 14T/15T c/s sprockets . . .

Good news is they will replace chain to standard length

EDIT - got the right number of actual links - note to self - closed chain must have even number of links :)

:huhand I thought I was clever makin' a tool holder outta 90mm plumbin' tube.

What workshop? Name and shame!

No shame if they're putting it right.

Yep, 110 is standard.
Works for the following combos that I have run:
15/41 stock
15/43
15/44
14/43
14/44

Can't do 107, always an even number (including link).

Doh, Goosefeather !

Would you believe 108 ?

I marked 11 in the first 10 if that makes sense!

I picked it up because the cams were near the zero mark, and black soil from a ride was clogging the tyre. Looked closer and realised probably no room to fit a new knobbie, and certainly no room to change from the current 14T to a 15T as I do for extended trips


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+1 be a bugger if they lost business because a new apprentice stuffed up but the shop is doing the right thing.

but if a shop has buggered up badly and repeatedly refuses to sort the mess, and have been told it will be posted about i reckon it's game on.

yep - no names, no pack-drill

Very mature Mr Feather. I once read a great quote......

"he who is without sin throw the first stone"

Ive been having issues with the DR lately. It seems to be that its 'stumbling' when in idle. Almost like a miss somewhere. Ive made a video to see if you guys can hear it.
I rode it to work this morning, freezing cold, started fine without choke. Opening choke seems to make the idle rougher almost like the carb floods for a second. A couple of times when coasting to the lights it stalled but was able to start it again with no problem.
I got the carby off last weekend and noticed the needle was not stock (I have no idea what it is). It did not have the plastic ring, only a single shim. Im wondering if the issue is caused by it running rich?
Would adjusting the mixture screw be the best thing or do I need to play around with the needle.
Bike has a staintune exhaust and cut airbox.

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I think you hit the head on the nail. If it starts without choke in the Canberra cold; yes, its running too rich. Why is it though? :huh

Sorry, I don't have a BST standard carb but check and make sure choke cable isn't broken at the brass bit as it enters the carb, I've heard this issue is common.

Apart from that, you may need to pull apart and clean out jets etc. It will probably be a process of elmination.

I'm sure others will chime in.

Keep us posted.

Try adjusting the mixture screw in.
If your needle is pretty much as low as it can go one of the jets may be too big

I have found crap often gets into the choke cable a the carb end stopping the choke from completely closing.

Sounds much like that and gets terrible economy - pop the cable out and give it a clean . .

This can be cured with a choke button direct on the carb, or a remote choke kit if you have a Safari tank.

Had a cpl of requests for some more pics of the Barrett exhaust on my DR.

^nice exhaust! Can you post a video so we can hear it?

Well I did notice on the weekend that the choke cable has the same issue as
this guy

http://drriders.com/topic10791-10.html

The rubber boot is separated from the plastic nut, would that affect the tension? I thought that aslong as the nut was ok then it would hold the choke cable tension.
But would that still cause the bike to run rough with the choke pulled fully open? I would understand if the bike was warm, but cold starts and choke open is harder to start the bike than with it closed.