Only temporarily. They are rebuilding the Moose Creek bridge at KM148 (from Ross River) supposed to be complete by now, and the Itsi Creek bridge (KM180) from July 14-24. Otherwise should be business as usual. I'm going up as far as Itsi this weekend to drop off a couple guys with quads who intend to do the complete trail to the MacKenzie River.
I was up to about km161 on June30, the day before they were supposed to close the road at Moose Creek. I think originally they were going to close it to replace the bridge from July 1 to 11 but that changed. there was talk of having a partial opening. Then they were going to reopen from the 11 to 14 and then close for 4 days to do the Itzy bridge....but that could have all changed since I was there. I rode it on a very wet day and turned around to get back on the right side of Moose Creek...camped at Dragon Lake. I've got a thread in this forum called road2blue and a website with more pictures and more story at www.road2blue.com
Just back from dropping the guys who are doing the quad traverse. Here's a *drive* report, as I was in a diesel pick up, 17' trailer and 2,400 pounds of load. Not the fastest combination, but dry! It was hard mountain rain most of the time. Dan, most riders would think that doing the "regular" North Canol was adventure enough. Going all the way across the Heritage Trail requires fording 3 major rivers (rafts), multiple creeks, boulder fields where the road is washed out, and some wetlands. Then you have the logistics of ending up in Norman Wells, after arranging for a boat pick up. The fellows I took up are, I believe, only the second group to try this self-supported without air drops of fuel and food. For those who haven't tried roads of this type, it makes remote treks in other parts of the world look populated....for instance, I had to do up and back on sequential days, and my tracks were the only ones I saw on the way out. I love this place. If you want to do the North Canol, plan well and only go as far as you're comfortable. For most people, this will be the NWT border +/-, which is beautiful country. The fellows on quads are doing this for Field & Stream magazine, so have sponsorship, otherwise it could also be a pretty expensive undertaking. Just getting out on the eastern end is $$. The road is in great shape compared to some previous years. The water-to-your-axle, mud bogs stretches have had some gravel laid in, bridge approaches likewise. They did a great job on Moose Creek, and are using galvanized sheet for the abutments, so should be good for some time. Itsi was where I had to stop as there was no bridge deck, the quads had to ford around the side. Watch for the usual deep holes where culverts have collapsed, beavers are making some ponds/streams across the road, erosion cuts on hills, ruts, and the like. I won't say much about what's there as you'll want to find spectacular by yourself. A few reminders for those who haven't done this type of road: It's remote. The Dempster and Haul Road are highways with lots of traffic in comparison. That means there is no support or help coming of any type. Think about it. Even in remote jungle areas, a local may pop his head out and be able to offer something. Not here. There is a highway maintenance camp at Twin Creeks. It's not manned unless they're doing something like the bridge repair, and even then the people may all be at the work site (where they have travel trailers). If you're solo (and I often am), be prepared, and be careful. No buddy to help pick up your bike when it jams against a boulder in mid-creek. Carry a satellite phone or SPOT. I like adventures, not dying alone! OK, that's all very dramatic, so some practical points follow The worst mosquitoes you can imagine. Only Rock Creek on the Dempster comes close Great changes in weather - warm and sunny, hard rain, snow. In one day... Until you get farther up, the middle portion has lots of wetland, so not great camping. Fords by bridges have grown in, so don't expect to camp by a creek easily on most of the middle road. Good camping spots include the ford at Tay Creek, Dragon Lake, Sheldon Lake (track down from the road), and lots of places once the road gets to the South MacMillan valley where you've gotten out of most wetland areas. Gravel pits are good camp sites, well drained, open enough to give you a chance with bugs, see the bear coming. Some pits are near creeks (from bridge building), so water is close, such as Caribou Creek. Some side trails are easy to explore on a bike, lead to old WW2 camps and gravel pits, good stopping places. There are a few cabins, respect them and use only in an emergency. Bring a bug shirt or head net, or regret it. And bug spray. I still have a stash of 95% DEET (restricted in Canada now to 30%, so it doesn't irritate skin - and melt plastic...). If by truck, I bring a screen house tent for cooking/eating in. Bring bear spray, available without permit at many stores in the Yukon for about $30. There are areas with not a lot of firewood, and it can all be wet. Don't count on a fire unless you're a real pro at it. Don't count on many services in Ross River. The store had the covers off the gas pumps, the Band card lock was working but making strange noises. Fact is, you'll need fuel here, but get food elsewhere. Bring enough fuel to get back...or call me and I'll deliver but you won't like the price! Allow time for delays due to washouts, weather, or? Allow time to enjoy it...it's not a race. Unless you're doing it on business. Watch out for big diesel pickups towing trailers using the entire road and travelling up to 80 KPH when they can. Sorry about that. The ferry is 8-12 and 1-5, not a minute earlier or later. We don't advertise it, but the Yukon kills off probably a couple visitors a year. They're mostly people who don't evaluate or believe the risks. Then plan accordingly. Do an accurate assessment of yourself and equipment. This is one of the best rides you can take. Compared to almost anywhere else in North America, it's really out there.
Agreed. Thanks for the up to date info . Still on the to do list when I get enough time. Will you know when the quad guys' story is coming out?
Great information AD, thanks. Did you take any pics along the way I'd like to hear about the progress of the atv guys too, wonder if they have a blog or website to follow?
This is where the blog will be once they get back. http://www.fieldandstream.com/adventurer/mackenzie-mountains You might have fun checking out Jim's snowmobile trip on the Field & Stream site as well, 555 miles across the arctic. I've dealt with Jim before, supporting a headwaters to ocean Stikine River trip. He's one of those 6'5" guys who can probably carry his quad across the trail...I think it's going to be a really tough trip, but he and Mike (the video guy F&S sent) should be able to do it. Otherwise I'll probably be getting a call to go up the road again...he's sensible about the difference between adventure and stupidity. It'll happen if at all possible.
The Twitya is still at spring high water levels since it's been raining consistently, and after waiting for 4 days at the river, Jim and Mike are going to have to bail, since Jim is committed to a major canoe expedition after this. They have run out of time, it's going to take them about 5 days to get back to the border, where I'll pick them up. Sounds like the raft rig worked OK on the smaller stuff and they made it across to an island in the Twitya (yes, it's a big river), but from there it was looking stupid. I don't have details yet, but how rough is it? Well, I won't be bringing the ATV trailers back, one tub disintegrated, one frame broke. The local hunting outfitter is going to salvage what he can, such as tires. Looking forward to pictures on this one.
Tough luck. Was it just the 4 day wait that threw them off or were they already running behind schedule and that just added to the problem? Seems you should factor in a lot of delays for whever reason rears it's ugly head.
It was the 4 day wait, which wasn't over yet. You could be waiting for the water to drop to a safe level for a long time. Jim had another commitment to make a major canoe expedition following this. He's doing three expeditions for F&S this year, the first being the 555 mile snowmobile trek in the arctic, the second being this trip, the third being the canoe trip. He was due out at Norman Wells around August 03, and was on schedule arriving at the Twitya, but waiting 4 days there, followed by two more major river crossings with unknown timing, was killing the schedule. In addition, while he's keen, he's not a fool, and is a very experienced paddler. I think he recognized a *death* situation when he saw one. I'm surprised how many people - not this crew, they had good reasons - set out on their trip with no allowances for weather days or any hold ups. They schedule their arrival at the pick up, float plane charter back to base, and shuttle back to an airport, all bang, bang, bang. I had one group incensed at me because they had arrived at Mayo (float plane base) and were due out on Air Canada from Whitehorse that evening. What part of "the only road is washed out and I can't get to Mayo" didn't they understand? Having helped with Jim & Mike's raft, and having thought about this some more, crossing northern (very cold) rivers of any size just may not be a reasonable thing for a motorcycle or ATV, if you can't ford it. Workable floatation is going to be bulky; you're going to need a dry suit; Swimming or lining can be quite dangerous; and so on. The gear adds up to where a motorcycle isn't going to carry it. IF I was going to do this, I'd bring a real raft, just big enough for the ATV, with oarstands, and simply sit on the ATV and row the damn thing across. No dangerous lines in the water, better control, safer. Of course, I am an old raft guide, so have a bias. The neat pictures of someone, with plenty of local help, floating their bike across a river wearing only shorts, isn't going to happen in the north. Being familiar with the conditions and...mature, that's it, yeah...I want a bug tent, propane shower, lots of fuel. Fact is, when I go beyond the end of the North Canol Road next time, I'm going to take my Jeep Rubicon. Been there, done that, now going to keep the mud off.
great thread and info, thanks here is a link to a post i made, has a link in it about a guy by the name of Archie Knill, who rode an MC from Norman Wells, made several crossings... came back a yr later... tough hombre I guess. he's a guide up there. http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=578012&highlight=norman+wells one day, and it wont be this year, love to see that country up there. been to Alaska, lived there several times but never to Yukon/NWT gotta do it..... thanks again.
Is it just basic road maintenance going on up there or are they re-building those bridges for other reasons? Such as mining or other industrial interests?
to save multiple clicks, here is the goods, no pics, this was from mtn bike trip someone took in the 80's, their account of Archie riding all the way from N. wells on way south.... "The last thing we expected as we sat eating lunch was the sound of a motor, but it was unmistakable. Presently a tiny motorcycle hove in sight, piled high with camping gear, a folded inflatable raft, a rifle, camera gear, and almost incidentally a rider. His name was Archie Knill, and he had started out from Norman Wells on his trail bike the summer before. He told a harrowing tale of capsizing his raft while crossing a river, nearly losing his camera gear and motorcycle, then dismantling and drying his engine. Caught by snow (in August) before he could complete his trek, he had left his equipment at a hunting camp and flown out the previous summer, returning almost a year later to retrieve it. He also told us of the river crossings we would have to deal with soon. "I had to cross the Ekwi river six times," he reassured us, "But you can carry your bikes, so the only bad one should be the last one, where it's deep. Pretty wide, too." He regaled us with bear-escape stories before leaving." damn what a ride report that would be.
Thanks for the link and quote, HC. The difference is that Archie was able to do it on his own timing, just for himself, and obviously resupplied when he went back, so only had to carry food/fuel for half the trail. Sounds like he was flirting with the edge as well, since he capsized. Picture losing your bike and gear downstream and having only the clothes on your back - and hopefully your sat phone or SPOT, which should be strapped to your body along with some basic emergency gear like knife and fire starter. Back to the differences. The first thing I talked about with Jim was that he was doing it at the wrong time of year when water would still be high - and it turned out higher than expected due to the rain. He was well aware of that, but needed to do the trip in this time frame to suit the magazine. When you turn your passion/hobby/sport into a job, you may have more resources at hand, but also more demands/responsibilities on you as well. This holds true even on private trips - if you've been the guide, and are supplying the gear, you will default to being the person "on duty" which takes some of the fun and leeway out. Another difference is that they needed a mound of gear as they were filming the trip professionally, and one thing leads to another, leading to more weight. Add both still and video cams, a laptop to download/preview, then you need a tiny generator, which needs fuel... They were also doing the trip self-supported, no fuel or food drops as most people do. Reportedly, only one other trip has tried self-supported. When we packed them, they had 320 litres of extra gas, guesstimate 515 pounds. Don't know if they needed that much, but neither did they, and they weren't going to resupply. It all adds up. This meant that each river crossing would have to be made 4 times - 2 ATV, 2 trailers. That's a time suck. A few people go in from each end each year (hunters mostly) and get stopped at the major rivers. Very few people have managed the entire Trail, and those mostly by foot/bicycle. It's a tough trip. One aspect of the north that's not immediately obvious is that when it rains, between permafrost and rocky ground, there is very little absorption, so all the rain ends up in the rivers quickly. I've seen rivers come up 2' - 3' overnight. Surprise! Don't camp too close. Yes, I've had to move my tent in the night. Mercenary, it's minimal road maintenance, sort of a holding action for the future. Lots of mineral exploration has taken place and there are some defined reserves. For instance, Mactung will replace Cantung when the tungsten runs out down there, and if the market demand warrants. Same for other metals. I was first up the road in 1981 and there were major exploration camps and the road was being graded and kept up back then. Now it's just survival maintenance so they don't have a huge job to rebuild it when industry needs it. If you want the true wilderness experience on the Road (not the Trail portion), go now! That's one thing that led to moving to the Yukon. I'm driving up the North Canol in 1981, and here comes a grader, operated by a babe in a bikini. If you can do the job, you get the job. We're an interesting combination of redneck and very liberal, and I like that.
hi aquadog, my post wasnt to make light of a trip there or compare trips, more just a recognition of one who has and the a brief account of his struggles. thanks for your info posted.
HC, my apologies, I wasn't clear. I wasn't so much defending the guys as venting what I've found for myself, having made something I really enjoyed - whitewater rafting - into a business. The rules change fairly completely, which makes trips more, or less, do-able depending. The fun factor changes a lot. My ideal trip now is with a bunch of other old guides so we can all take turns with responsibility and bitching....or for rafting, maybe just buying a ride on someone else's commercial trip, where it's out of my hands. Not taking away from Archie, or the others who have walked it, it's a very tough trip. One thing doing wilderness as a business brings as well, is a finely tuned sense (I hope) of when it's worth doing and when to walk away. This can be very different when it's an individual choice, such as a solo "Archie" trip. For personal trips, I now often travel solo so I can make that choice without considering others. Interestingly, it's like muscle memory in a way. Having tuned that sense of impending doom, I now often make the same personal choice as I would for a group. Or I'm getting to an age where I am just more cautious and want to be back another day. On this trip, I kind of thought I'd hear from them this morning, and am a bit concerned that they have already crossed some substantial "creeks" that needed rafting, and it's just kept raining. Hope the guys don't have issues getting back! At least they don't have the trailers to deal with any more! Maybe I'll have to fire up the Hagglunds and trailer it up there to go get them! (Yes, I have a Hagglunds BV206, doesn't everybody?)
That Hagglunds looks like a lot of fun http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GHeF5n0s09c&feature=related http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a1xiL_ftLtI
Hagglunds are very different than a bike, but are big time fun. I have not had the b*lls to really try the amphibious part yet, but the capabilities are impressive. With 4' of track out of a 6' width, very low ground pressure (less than an ATV) you don't sink in, being articulated steer you don't lose headway or dig a hole turning (especially important if you're climbing) and with all 4 tracks driving, the other end may have traction to push/pull you through. Very versatile. I have vaguely thought of an early spring trip (rivers still frozen) across the North Canol, but you'd be going from Ross River and then need enough fuel to get back, so maybe a stockpile delivered at the other end. Don't know how solid the MacKenzie stays frozen in the spring. I haven't buried it, but from pictures, when you do get stuck... Got a call from the guys tonight, and with high water it's tough even getting back, they have multiple creeks/rivers they crossed going out that could be forded in low water, but have to be rafted this trip. Ferrying across the channel on the Twitya back to the west bank and then winching up a steep hill took a day; without trailers the quads are now top heavy and they're having to ride some side hills, so rolled one and then changed oil; etc. Everything is sucking up time. Bear in mind, these are experienced wilderness travellers. Jim had that monotone voice that you get when you are just keeping on making it happen. They are having some neat experiences - a pack of wolves came within 20' of their camp last night. However, they had ridden until midnight before making camp, and are still a couple days out, even though the road gets better as you get closer to the border. Supposed to meet up Tuesday morning at the border. Currently at 64 00.897N, 128 34.824W, check Google Earth. Trying to think what treat to bring so they ride into camp and get a "present". They'll be disappointed in not having made it across, but rain happens. This is one of those trips that will seem better in retrospection.
Even if they didn't make it, it's going to be a heck of a story. Hope they are using the camera to full potential.
