NY to Meat Cove - Late September

Discussion in 'Canada' started by dirtybike, Jul 13, 2012.

  1. dirtybike

    dirtybike Been here awhile

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    The wife and some family are spending a few days near Portland, ME around the last weekend of September. If I can get off from work, I'm looking at leaving NY on the 23rd, and heading for Nova Scotia. Low budget this trip, so looks like mostly camping.
    Two objectives in mind, as I've never been there before:
    - See the tides change at the Bay of Fundy. Anyone know any good campgrounds with a view?
    - Cabot Trail and Meat Cove. Went to Prudhoe Bay in July 2011. Want to go to another edge of the earth.
    I'm sure that there is more to do, and I'm budgeting too little time, I'm just working with what I'll have.
    I haven't really mapped it out yet. Possibilities:
    Day one - Slab it into Maine. If I recall, rt 9 heads east off of the interstate to stay more toward the coast. Find a campground or cheap (ha ha) motel.
    Day two - Figure that I'll try for the easternmost point in the contiguous states, then stick coastal as much as is reasonable on the ride in N.B., hopefully camping with a view of Bay of Fundy. Is Fundy National Park N.B. a good place?
    Day three - into N.S. Find a campground.
    Day four - Cabot Trail and Meat Cove. Maybe camp at Meat Cove.
    Day five - more Cabot Trail?
    Day six - return to N.B.
    Day seven - head for Portland ME to meet family.
    Kind of flexible, maybe take an extra day or so in Canada. Got those family obligations.

    Got to admit that I'm not really much of a camper. Prefer flush toilets and hot showers.
    So the point of this rambling post is - any recommendations on campgrounds and cheap but clean motels?
    #1
  2. dirtybike

    dirtybike Been here awhile

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    Wow, that part about preferring a flush toilet really turned people off, didn't it?
    Well, looking at the prices on motels along the route, even in the off season, tells me that I'll be camping. Noticed on my trip to Alaska last year, Canada is expensive! I thought that it was due to riding in the rockies in summer, but N.B. & N.S. in the off season is right up there!
    Saw some pics of the campground at Meat Cove. Got to camp there if at all possible. Sunrise must be awesome, if the fog isn't too thick.
    #2
  3. fastredbike

    fastredbike getting back in the fight Supporter

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    hey dirtybike, you can certainly do all that but you won't have a lot of time to waste along the way:evil Also, at that time of year it can be really warm or quite cold (sometimes both in the same day) so be prepared to layer and un-layer as needed.

    here's a link to my blog from a ride around the trail a couple of weeks ago that shows some stills and video:
    http://an-unconventional-life.blogspot.ca/2012/06/cabot-trail-run-june-13th-to-15th-2012_23.html

    there are lots of campgrounds that overlook the BoF in both NB and NS, if you stay as coastal as possible on your trip you'll see the tidal effect in two ways; huge tidal flats where the water recedes hundreds of yards at low tide and deep gorges that are full at high tide but leave fishing boats sitting on the mud 10 feet lower when it's out. You'll see all of that as you travel. As for campgrounds, most private campgrounds would have flush/hot shower facilities, most provincial and national parks would be more rustic.

    Meat Cove is definitely worth it. It's a bit out of the way and some find the dirt road and switchbacks in the last few miles challenging but it's a really cool spot. There's not much there for facilities, though so go in prepared.

    I like Rte. 9 too, though it's not really coastal - lots of trees, some lakes and some blueberry barrens. You have to follow rte. 1 if you want to see the water but it would take a lot longer and even though it's late season the traffic can be painful. Acadia Park is very nice but often crowded. At the end of rt. 9 is Calais, ME and there are a couple of cheap motels there I've used. You can usually find cheap motels if you avoid the tourist hot spots.

    Fundy NP is nice, getting a bit expensive, tho. Once you get to Saint John, NB the highway turns inland and you won't see the ocean or bay again until Fundy park (if you go that way). There's some great gravel routes that would keep you closer to the coast and ample opportunity for stealth camping but if you are trying to make time the highway would be quickest.

    If you can spare a couple of extra hours right after you enter Nova Scotia I'd really recommend taking route 209 (starts at Amherst) for an excellent preview to the Cabot Trail. You'll see the tide effects, fantastic views, there's a fossil museum at Joggins, NS and lots of curvy coastal riding. Watch out for hidden driveways and some of the switchbacks can get gravel pulled into the road from the shoulders. There are a number of campgrounds all along this route and a provincial park at Five Islands.

    The Cabot Trail itself can be done in less than a day start to finish if you ride right thru but there's plenty to see and lots of photo opportunities if you stop.

    Be very careful to watch for animals. We have lots of deer, moose and other, smaller animals that can appear out of nowhere. Avoid riding in the dark and stay alert, especially where the trees come right to the edge of the road.

    Ride safe and have a ball!
    #3
  4. CDNRider

    CDNRider Banned

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    I have to disagree wrt Meat Cove

    Cool location, shitty campground. At the end of looong road.

    There are much better places to camp in Cape Breton.
    #4
  5. kelsow

    kelsow Long timer

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    ^^^..You gotta shit on everyone's post?

    There is always going to be a better place to camp just like there will be worse places to camp.

    Lighten up will ya?
    #5
  6. RumRunner

    RumRunner Sit there, turn that

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  7. ThumperGuy

    ThumperGuy Adventurer

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    There is a great Provincial Government camp ground at a place called Five Islands, that will give you a great view of the tides roaring in and out, it's kinda on the way to Meat Cove. A visit to Cape d'Or is well worth the side road to get there. Dirt side roads is what it's all about.

    a stay at Meat Cove is well worth it too, the unpaved road and switch backs are not worth thinking about.
    #7
  8. jacqui

    jacqui Falling overrrrr....

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    Hideaway campground is a wonderful spot to spend a couple of nights. It's a quick ride from there to Meat Cove. If I remember correctly, had we not taken a wrong turn to begin with, it's only a little over an hour away. The campground is a family business, and the owner also runs an oyster farm. Every day you can purchase fresh oysters and steamed lobster at the camp store. They offer coin-op shower facilities and have flush toilets :-)

    They also have a few cabins on site incase the weather is unfavourable.

    http://www.campingcapebreton.com/
    #8
  9. NovaTrophy

    NovaTrophy Long timer

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    I second the Hideaway. My go to place when in the Highlands. They have cabins that are priced nice too (the lighthouse cabin is cool). Meat Cove is very exposed to the elements. Nice place to see though.

    If you find yourself in the area of Margaree Forks (you will if you do the complete Cabot Trail), don't pass the Dancing Goat Cafe. Best sammiches and soup ever!

    For the Bay of Fundy Tides, try the Wide Open Wilderness (WOW) campground on Route 215 (15 min off the Highway at Shubenacadie). We stayed there a few weekends ago (kind of hillbilly like, but still not bad). They have a short trail which leads to a lookoff over the Shubie River. You can watch the river rafters running the tidal bore when it comes in. I never saw it before then and thought it was pretty neat. The zodiacs would run along the waves, turn and run up and do it over and over again. Close enough that you can hear the soaked passengers screaming!

    If you are coming through Maine, Route 1 to Lubec and through Campobello Island/Deer Island is a beautiful ride. There's a good campground right at the Deer Island ferry landing.
    #9
  10. jacqui

    jacqui Falling overrrrr....

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    If you're heading up the coast, there's another awesome State campground in Cobscook Bay, Maine. It's really rustic but also very private. If you get a spot right on the bay, you can sit and watch the tide go out before you finish your beer. :1drink
    #10
  11. firefighter651

    firefighter651 Adventurer

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    +1 on the the Hideaway and The dancing goat cafe,the food is great.If you have the time and would like to do some Flyfishing let me know or maybe some coffee.
    #11
  12. C-Stain

    C-Stain Long timer

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    I'm planning a little run through Cape Breton in late September/Early October. I'll send you a PM - maybe I can help with expenses if you don't mind another rider being along. Plus - I used to work in Cheticamp. I know some cool places and trails.
    #12
  13. dirtybike

    dirtybike Been here awhile

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    Thanks for the responses and advice. Had some rescheduling come up at work and I may have to adjust. That's life.
    I will compile the advice before the trip, it all looks good.
    #13
  14. fredgreen

    fredgreen Beer drinkin Bluenoser

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    Not sure where you are from, but if you are looking for a starbucks and a Denny's at the camprground, just stay somewhere else. You're the first post I've ever seen bashing Meat Cove. This is possibly the most idyllic campsite in Canada, but it is a CAMPSITE. Bring your own food, water, booze, and tent. Oh ya, bring your camera too. I didn't know that 26 kms was a long road either!
    #14
  15. CallMeBoog

    CallMeBoog hi functioning idiom

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    don't trust this guy, he's known as the Highland Strangler...
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  16. C-Stain

    C-Stain Long timer

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    Those allegations were never proven.... Alleged Highland Strangler...:evil
    #16
  17. CallMeBoog

    CallMeBoog hi functioning idiom

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    well all I'm sayin is that the strangling stopped after you left. You were/are the Highland Strangler, or he strangled because of you.
    #17
  18. Voluhzia

    Voluhzia iExplorer

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  19. stfmkr

    stfmkr 2up Adventurer

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    [​IMG]
    We just left Meat Cove yesterday. A bit of advice; prepare your camp setup for extreme winds and bring earplugs for sleeping in the tent!
    We were told that a lone camper fell off the cliff a few nights before and yes he did not survive the fall so be careful if you have to pee in the middle of the night.
    #19
  20. dirtybike

    dirtybike Been here awhile

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    This is getting to me. My vacation got pushed out to the first week of October. There will be a bit less daylight and probably a bit cooler then... Looks fantastic, though...
    #20