Having bent a couple of pegs I feel they are too low to the ground already. I now have the IMS shin shredders and really like them, but... My ergos will like to see lower pegs and live with the consequences. Did any inmate try the Pivot Pegz PP-18MK3, do they really mount lower than stock? Cheers!
reading is fundamental lol....... (answered my own question by reading the service manual more thoroughly)
Hey Guys- I was curious what options I have to raise up the bars on my XR. My current set up uses the Scotts top triple clamp, a scotts damper with the front mount post and 1 1/8" CR high bend bars. Is it possible to just put a spacer under the bar mounts to gain some height? Will that cause any problems with the damper? I am trying to avoid spending a bunch of money on the sub mount or replacing my bars. Interested in what others are running to get a higher bar height for standing. Thanks!
Hi CT, In this pic the Scotts damper is taken off, the two posts with the threaded holes are the ones that accept the two screws that mount the unit. Moving the bars up and forward make the XR super comfortable for me. The damper is as low as is can be mounted. The front pin tower is very short which is good. The setup was stressed more than once, I broke the shear pin on the Scotts unit (it is a sacrificial pin) but the mounting arrangement you see remained unmoved. There are 3 custom parts (2 blocks with left and right versions + 2 identical round posts) + 2 holes in the Scotts top triple clamp. *edit: + 2 longer bolts + 2 nylock nuts replacing the Scotts suplied ones)
OK I killed my bike going up a road construction side hill (the road is being done going up a hill and there was a steep-as-shit dozer path going up the hill) for the second time, made it just fine the first. Washed out right towards the crest of the hill and I couldn't keep it running as I laid it over. So I had to back my bike down the hill and almost died of exhaustion. I'm 150 lbs and have owned this XR for a month and half. So at the bottom I kick it over and I read the other night that the best way to start a flooded 650 was to turn the gas off and hold the throttle open. BAM. Loud noise and fire. I look down and there's a small flame at the end of one of the vent tubes on the underside of my bike. I kick the flame out. At this point I wonder if I just ruined the bike. Next kick over it starts right up and I quickly put my helmet on and pull away. Rides perfectly normal the 30 minute ride home. Has anyone experienced this before and was this the sonic boom of flooded xr650s? fucking awesome construction site though, seriously it felt like finding a level from excite bike 64
When you laid it over you flooded it, then when you held it open and gave it the kick it lit off all the fuel that was in the intake tract. Honda puts a backfire screen between the air filter and the carb for just that reason. Depending on how long it on it's side and the bike's angle, there can be a good bit of fuel in the airbox and possibly pooling under the bike. The method you used will work but it risks an airbox fire which is exactly what happened. I imagine if the carb leaked enough fuel, you could really catch the bike on fire and end up burning it to the ground but that'd be exstreme worst case. The safer method is to press the kill switch, hold the throttle wide open, give it 6 to 8 easy kicks with the comp rel pulled it, then let off the kill sw. and start it normally. This works really well, usally 1 kick if your carb is dialed in correctly. BTW: Like you, I weight a whopping 155 for someone our size, riding the BRP in technical stuff will definately test your stamina and make you man up or sell it
Because I received a lot of good advice and feedback about my starting and hanging idle issues here in the last week or so I decided to put my pride aside and post up what I found in my carb today. ............... Best I can't tell.........the two screws holding the link arm on the throttle valve and keeping the jet needle in place have been slowly working their way out over the last few months and causing the hanging idle to get worse the more they backed themselves out. A little over a week ago when it died and wouldn't restart forever and I had to screw with the idle so much, I'm guessing is the day the screw pictured above came completely out. The second screw was on it's way out as well and was only a few threads in and was barely holding the link arm to the throttle valve. I took it completely apart, cleaned everything, put it all back together and it started on the first kick (after adjusting the throttle stop knob back where it needed to be) and it ran better than it has months. No more hanging idle, no dying, and first kick starts all evening.
Aaaaaaaa LOL Opc, good for you, you see, the reason is always simpler than the effects. Thanks for your honesty sharing this. I once synchronized a 6 cyl bike, of course with vacuum gauges, after a full service. Ran superb, perfectly tuned, so I took the gauges off, put the bike back together and wanted to go for a testride. It started hesitantly, idled shitty, jeez, I was baffled, not a happy chappy. It took me hours, lots longer than the actual tune-up, to find that I just forgot to re-plug the vacuum-holes of the carbs Yah, sheet fer brains, it happens - but one learns from it. Now go wheelie, just to show that carb who's boss!!!!
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BTW: Like you, I weight a whopping 155 for someone our size, riding the BRP in technical stuff will definately test your stamina and make you man up or sell it :eek1 'sell it':eek1 No blasphemy here pleeze!
Jaronimo , great vid mate , your pig is running sweet , love the sand riding , where i live its a bit hard to find that stuff
:eek1 'sell it':eek1 No blasphemy here pleeze![/QUOTE] Lots of low hr. XRRs out there because the owner couldn't man up enough. That includes being "skeerd" of the power :eek1 I got mine from just such a person. He actually half attempted to talk me out of buying it. I told him I'd take my chances
Pull your airfilter out and take alook at the back side of it. Pretty likely it was melted. Might want to replace it.
I got mine from a guy who's wife was pregnent and needed to sell it (he bought it from a kid who was scared). So I bought it, then my girlfriend got pregnent. Luckily it didn't work out and I still got the bike. I told the guy what happened, he said it is because the bike gives us big balls.
Well I had never held an ear up to my xrr motor while revving it until I rebuilt it. So I just thought I would share my experience with my newly rebuilt motor, the used Edelbrock pumper I put on it and what happens when you listen too closely. During the first couple break-in runs I found the carb to be on the lean side, so I turned the fuel up. Then it went rich, very rich. The plug was coming out covered with soot. I wondered WTF; I didnt turn it more than half a turn rich. So I turn the screw to lean it, and I turned it again, and again, and it still rich. Plus the only way to get it to start is to do the hot-start procedure, which I dont care for on a new engine. So I sat there doing what I felt like was damage to my new engine for about two hours or more. I also notice some chatter coming from the motor when I revved it up; it wasnt bad but made me very concerned. So I thought maybe my valves need adjusting and perhaps I should check the timing chain. I pulled the valve cover and everything looked fine; re-torqued the head and put it back together. I tried to run it and the still the same thing. So I pulled the top off the carb and found my problem; the adjuster body backed out of the slide; it was at full rich. So I fixed that and set the adjuster screw to the mid-point. After a couple runs I had the carb dialed in. However I still had this random clanging sound when I revved it. I pulled the magnetic drain plug and found a few chips. I thought oh great, a new motor and now my tranny is screwed. I was so pissed I said to hell with it, threw my ratchet across the shop, and took it for a test ride and rechecked for metal chips and found nothing new. Then I decided to lube the drive chain and take it for a longer ride. While doing so I noticed a clunking sound while I turned the rear wheel by hand. After scratching my head for 5 minutes or so, I realized what the sound was. It was the damn dogs on the gears bumping against their engagement holes. Because the bike was sitting slightly tilted on the kick-stand the gears were sliding to one side and making that noise; perfectly normal, unlike my mental state. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o> I took it for its first high power test ride and this thing pulls like no other. The response is awesome, no flat spots. I was only on gravel road and couldnt get any traction, so I cant wait to get some new rubber and get it in some good dirt, or even pavement to see what this thing will do. I am imagining the front wheel will spend more time off the ground than on. This thing rocks. <o></o>
Rrrrrrrigth, so oot the window goes my patience now I'm waiting for almost same parts to be sent, and normally I'm a patient chap Good on you Crypto, have fun! Got my bike off a trader who had put an open silencer on a new bike & had opened the intake rubber, I presume in an attempt to "de-cork" it. Yeah, a disappointing ride, so he sold it.... to me as it turned out. No, he can't buy it back if he wants to
Let's beat the Dead Horse "stator/lighting question" again.......:huh What are the real wattage numbers on the output of a stock stator? I am seeing estimations from 65 to 95 watts on a stock stator. I ask because after the other night's single track thru the trees in the dark with a candle for a headlight, I am adding 2 35w HID lights and a battery. I think I can get away with running the stock stator to charge the battery and run the HID's for several hours without losing too much power from the battery. Basically The power from the stator should run the lights and the battery will take the excess voltage. In the worst case, the HID's will be discharging the battery at about 3 amps, maybe less. Each HID draws 35w and 3.2 amps when warmed up(more at start up) but more then likely I will only be using 1 HID at a time. This is why I am trying to use the stock stator instead of a rewound stator since I am only drawing around 85-100 watts with ALL my lights going. Input anyone? Rewind or stock? I will be using a Ricky Stator reg/rec. Thanks guys
I would rewind my stator using high quality wire from gobrushless.com. I would then use the 55w HID bulbs and digital ballasts ($25/set) from ddmtuing.com in a housing of my choice, preferably something cheap. I converted one of my 100w PIAA halogens to HID and it works well because the glass lens is what controls the light pattern, not the reflector. I would also be posting this in the xrr electrical thread, You could do all this for not much more than $100-$150 and a few hours time.
