BMW R1150GS trans offset to the engine, did you fix it?

<BR>Interesting. I'd like to see some pictures if you get a chance.


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I did not understand too much from the above post and am also waiting for some pics, to enlighten :)

Dan.

here is a link with pictures,
I cant post pictures here.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/bmw-...19-r1150-trans-offset-engine-did-you-fix.html

Ok, now I get it. Looks like a lot of work involved, measuring included.

Before doing what you did... Would it not be more simple to put the new clutch back in, do not tighten all the 6 screws all the way, the starter motor is already off, mount the gearbox and give the rear wheel a spin while in 6th, spark plugs out, then tighten the 6 screws that hold the clutch together? I did it once and it's not been an issue ever since.

Dan.

while that idea was used on the earlier bikes to center the trans to the engine block,
this wont work here because the trans and engine are pinned together ,
there isnt any moment of the parts once joined,
so if they are out of line they will stray out of line.

The only place for the misalignment to be taken up is through the shaft and clutch disc,
since mine was worn I decided to not just install a new shaft and disc and call it good,
without looking for a misalignment

Since my splines were worn it indicated a mismatch of the splines ,
Checking the alignment is the only way i know of to figure out if the centers lined up
This process i used is the only way i could think of to check things short of having the tooling measurements and chucking the parts on a tooling jig

I do know that the alignment is much closer than it was when I took things apart.

@Mrmerlin, I have to admit I have never changed a clutch on a r1150, only on several 1100's and an k1200rs. But as I have observed, on the 1100 at least, there is lots of lateral play between the friction plate and the pressure plate and clutch housing, when all 3 of them are put together. I think that what I mentioned earlier would work IF during the rotation of the rear wheel, the clutch would be pulled in, so there would be no stress on the friction plate and it would self center.

So, is there no lateral play in the 1150 bikes, for the above to work?

Dan.

Dan I think i know what your saying now, and yes there is lateral play , but thats not the issue here

What the issue with my R1150 is that the transmission input shaft is not centered to the crank shaft,
So if the clutch is released then the disc will center to the input shaft but it wont be centered in to the clutch diaphragm .

IE it will be off center or NON concentric,
thus with the non concentricity the shaft and splines will wear at a greater rate than a clutch that is concentric from crank center line to input shaft center line.

I hope this makes sense.

There have been other posters that have taken their clutches out and seen perfect splines with no cupping or damage to the input shaft or disc splines.
These bikes are operating with concentric spline/ crank alignment.
Once the clutch is clamped to the PPlate the disc cant move sideways this then forces the mismatch of the parts to grind away on the weakest area of the connection ......the splines.

If on the other hand the splines are concentric to the crank then the spline wear wont be seen as the disc will smoothly ride on the input shaft

FWIW I didnt use the Seibenrock disc that was pressed,
as it was damaged and out of plane after the press was used.
I did infact fit a Sachs disc

Back on this... I do have an idea on how to solve it, pretty easy. There are however some questions needing answers first.

I had to replace a clutch on a R1150GSA, 2002. The splines were worn on the input shaft. For the moment, I just fitted the new clutch but it is not a final solution.

My question for now is if the dowel pins work as guides just until the 6 screws are tighten or if they also have an active role after that.
If they are only needed for until the screws get tighten, things are going to get interesting...

Dan.

This guy is the real deal on this site when it comes to this sort of thing.He doesn't sell video's,just gives good dependable, realistic advice.good luck.

They have active role after that. Bolts are there to hold the transmission pressed against the engine. Dowels are there to keep the transmission and engine located.
It is the same logic as the hub flange that fits inside of the rim. It holds the wheel centered, wheel bolts (or nuts) are there to keep the wheel pressed to the hub, but not to keep it centered.

Any particular reason you took a pot shot?

Bro, here is a great opportunity for you to learn to shrug these things off. The vast, vast majority of people on this site appreciate your time and effort, are happy that you're willing to share your knowledge, and couldn't care less that you make a few bucks doing it. The tiny, tiny minority who get their panties bunched are not worth typing one character over.

You are right! Thanks!

By the way, when I saw this thread I thought of you!